Author Topic: Econokote question (Read 3229 times)

Tim Chenevert · « **on:** December 17, 2017, 04:40:52 PM »

So I am starting to finish my Sig Twister and just used Monokote for the first time and it was really nice to work with. Last plane I built was tissue and dope over 40 years ago. Anyway, the rudder came out nice so I went back and bought some yellow for the fuselage but didn’t notice that it was the Econokote brand. Is this brand as easy to work with as Monokote? It says to use low temp on the iron. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Tim

Target · « **Reply #1 on:** December 17, 2017, 04:47:18 PM »

Econo cote was made i believe for covering directly over bare foam. It has less tensile strength than monocote. It might be easier to work around compound curves though, and it's true that you don't need the tensile strength as much on the fuse.
If it were my plane, I'd stick to monocote. Especially for the subgroup and tail pieces.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #2 on:** December 17, 2017, 06:08:52 PM »

I can't speak for modern Econocoat, but the 40 year old stuff I used to cover my "get back into CL" plane had adhesive that turned to goo in castor oil residue.

If it's 'lectric then carry on, and don't hold it up to the exhaust stream of a slimer. If it's a slime engine -- recover!

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #3 on:** December 17, 2017, 06:58:25 PM »

This is what I am wanting to cover the fuselage on my Twister with. It is definitely a fuel engine. I just wasn’t looking at the name just the color as my LHS was closing for the day....Tim

Larry Renger · « **Reply #4 on:** December 17, 2017, 09:03:18 PM »

If it is unopened, you probably can take it back if you then buy Monokote as it is more expensive. The dealer should be happy with this.

If not, go ahead and use the Econokote, but brush a thinned coat of epoxy over the seams. Epoxy can be thinned with denatured alcohol, mek, acetone or lacquer thinner. What the fuel can’t reach, it can’t turn to goo!

Skip Chernoff · « **Reply #5 on:** December 18, 2017, 09:52:51 AM »

Stick with Monokote, I found that Econokote will separate the color portion from the adhesive and is not nearly as long lasting.

badbill · « **Reply #6 on:** December 18, 2017, 10:26:22 AM »

Econokote isn't fuel proof. Been there, done that.

Paul Smith · « **Reply #7 on:** December 18, 2017, 12:42:38 PM »

I liked Econocote because of the lower heat required. I could use it over bare foam. I never had a fuel-proofing issue. Econo is a lot more fuel proof than "fuel proof" dope.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #8 on:** December 18, 2017, 03:18:37 PM »

Quote from: Paul Smith on December 18, 2017, 12:42:38 PM

Econo is a lot more fuel proof than "fuel proof" dope.

I wonder if this changes with the age of the stuff? The stuff that I bought in the 70's to cover gliders with, then didn't use for decades because it was ugly (and then used because it was ugly), sure had glue that turned to goo when the exhaust slime got on it.

James Holford · « **Reply #9 on:** December 18, 2017, 03:53:59 PM »

Tim get ahold of John. I think he covered his twister wing with Econokote.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

Paul Smith · « **Reply #10 on:** December 18, 2017, 05:42:35 PM »

Iron-on covering of the fuselage is a losing deal in the long run, no matter what you use. You need an epoxy-type paint in the engine room.

Dane Martin · « **Reply #11 on:** December 18, 2017, 06:05:32 PM »

My monokote covered triplane disagrees. It's my oldest control line plane (that I built) and still looks like the day I finished it. There are methods that I believe do well in fuel proofing for monokote covered planes.

Larry Renger · « **Reply #12 on:** December 18, 2017, 07:26:45 PM »

Quote from: Dane Martin on December 18, 2017, 06:05:32 PM

My monokote covered triplane disagrees. It's my oldest control line plane (that I built) and still looks like the day I finished it. There are methods that I believe do well in fuel proofing for monokote covered planes.

Gee, that’s great. Don’t leave us hanging, or is it one of those “secret techniques”? If you can keep a film finish in good condition long term, it is well worth sharing!

Dane Martin · « **Reply #13 on:** December 18, 2017, 07:52:16 PM »

Quote from: Larry Renger on December 18, 2017, 07:26:45 PM

Gee, that’s great. Don’t leave us hanging, or is it one of those “secret techniques”? If you can keep a film finish in good condition long term, it is well worth sharing!

You saw my little fella. I thought you grabbed all my secrets from the tiny 207! Haha

Carl Cisneros · « **Reply #14 on:** December 18, 2017, 10:32:35 PM »

I use Monokote, Econokote and Solarfilm on all my aircraft and as yet to have any fuel issues on the covering.

My old F3A pattern models from teh early/mid 90's were covered with the films and they still look great to this date.
They are nitro powered ones by the way.

Carl

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #15 on:** December 19, 2017, 03:51:54 AM »

I returned the Econokote yesterday and got the Monokote. This is my first time using a product like this and wanted to keep everything the same. I do like the Econokote yellow better than the Monokote though. Thanks, Tim

Brett Buck · « **Reply #16 on:** December 19, 2017, 04:56:33 PM »

That's a good choice. I had very poor results with Econokote, like many others, the color/adhesive separated at the edges.

Brett

john e. holliday · « **Reply #17 on:** December 20, 2017, 02:29:19 PM »

Tim, that was a good choice. Like dope it doesn't pay to mix brands, ask me how I know some time.

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #18 on:** December 21, 2017, 04:33:54 AM »

All the Monokote has been applied to the Twister and not bad for my first attempt. I really like applying it using the iron to tack and the hot air gun to finish. Assembly time now! Tim

Target · « **Reply #19 on:** December 21, 2017, 06:09:17 AM »

It's a good idea to make sure the monocote is attached to every rib. Makes the wing stronger torsionally.