Take one quart of dope ans split into 2 quart jars. Mix 50/50 thinner. This is all the dope you get.When you're out of paint your finished. Do not dip the can to add more. Use all the thinner you want but no more clear.1/2 pint of color and trim colors.this will llead to a 6-7 oz finish.

Here is a comprehensive outline of the traditional tissue/silkspan and dope finishing process typically used to achieve a classic, lightweight, and mirror-smooth contest finish on a model airplane.

1. Surface Preparation (The Foundation)
A flawless finish is 90% preparation. Any imperfection in the wood will show through the final finish.

Sanding: Sand the raw balsa structure progressively down to a very fine grit (e.g., 320 to 400 grit), ensuring all joints are flush and surfaces are completely true.

Dust Removal: Use compressed air to blow out dust from the wood grain and deep nooks, followed by a thorough wipe-down with a high-quality tack cloth.

Pre-Sealing the Wood: Apply 3 coats of clear Butyrate dope (thinned approximately 50/50 with high-quality manufacturer-recommended thinner) to all framework, ribs, and solid balsa surfaces where the covering will attach

 Lightly sand with fine paper after it dries to knock down the raised grain.

2. Preparing and Cutting the Covering
Grain Orientation: Determine the grain direction of your tissue or silkspan. The grain should run lengthwise (span-wise on wings) for maximum strength and minimal warping.

Kitting the Panels: Cut out individual panels of tissue/silkspan for each section (top/bottom of wings, fuselage sides, etc.)  Cut them roughly 1 inch oversized on all margins to give yourself enough material to pull and handle

3. Applying the Tissue / Silkspan
Wetting the Material: Lightly dampening the tissue or silkspan relaxes the fibers, allowing it to stretch smoothly over compound curves (like wing tips) and pull taut as it dries

Positioning & Initial Adhesion: Lay the damp covering over the pre-doped frame.

Locking it Down: Brush clear Butyrate dope right through the wet covering along the perimeter (edges, leading/trailing edges, and solid sheets). The fresh dope melts into the pre-sealed coat on the wood, locking the covering firmly in place

Wrinkle Management: Work from the center outward, pulling gently to eliminate wrinkles before the dope sets.

Trimming: Use a brand-new, ultra-sharp #11 hobby knife blade to clean-trim the excess wet material along the edges

4. Sealing and Tautening (Clear Coats)
Water-Drying: Allow the wet-applied covering to dry completely. As the water evaporates, the tissue will pull straight and drum-tight.

Clear : Apply 2–3 coats of clear, thinned Butyrate dope over the open bays and sheeted areas  Butyrate dope has excellent initial adhesion and high initial shrinkage.

Intermediate Sanding: Lightly sand the clear coats with very fine dry or wet-or-dry paper (600+ grit) to remove high spots or fuzz, always wiping down with a tack cloth afterward .

5. Priming and Color

Primer / Base Coat: Apply a thinned coat of white is a  highly effective as a primer/blocker because it fills the grain, highlights surface defects, and prevents the wood or dark colors from bleeding through.

Block Sanding: Sand back the primer coat heavily, leaving dope only in the low spots and pores of the tissue.

Color Coats: Spray or brush multiple thinned coats of your desired colored butyrate dope. Multiple thin, misted coats add vibrant color without adding excessive weight.

Masking & Trim Lines: Use high-quality fine-line masking tape for trim schemes, pulling the tape while the dope is slightly tacky to ensure crisp, sharp edges.

6. Final Clear and Polishing
Final Clear Coat: Apply a final coat of clear butyrate dope to uniform the gloss level across the colors and provide maximum protection.

Rubbing Out the Finish: For a high-end competition shine, let the finish cure completely for a couple of weeks, then wet-sand with ultra-fine paper (1000 to 5000 grit) and rub out the surface using a fine automotive polishing compound and a microfiber cloth.

Thanks for posting this!  Since I fly strictly electric, is there any difference using Nitrate dope?

Ken

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on July 13, 2026, 07:08:12 AMThanks for posting this!  Since I fly strictly electric, is there any difference using Nitrate dope?

Ken

I'd only ask- Why?  Though you don't have a primary concern about fuel proofing your pit man who flies a slimer will be handling your airplane and the other guy in the pits will spray your ship when he burps his airplane.  There is nothing I know of to be gained using nitrate.....

Dave

Quote from: Dave_Trible on July 14, 2026, 03:38:22 PMI'd only ask- Why?  Though you don't have a primary concern about fuel proofing your pit man who flies a slimer will be handling your airplane and the other guy in the pits will spray your ship when he burps his airplane.  There is nothing I know of to be gained using nitrate.....

Dave

Yes, I have a fresh quart on the shelf and no Butrate.

Ken

I thought there might be a filler coat or two in the system. I saw somewhere to sand but leave some of the dust for filler and there was an additional talc filler coat too. Maybe the fabric does that job?

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on July 14, 2026, 03:58:21 PMYes, I have a fresh quart on the shelf and no Butrate.
Ken

Ken, you need a little can of Butyrate.

Great info, thank you for sharing!

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on July 14, 2026, 03:58:21 PMYes, I have a fresh quart on the shelf and no Butrate.

Ken

Ken you CAN use up the nitrate you have by using it for the first coats and covering the airplane, then switch over to butyrate for the color and top finish.  What you CAN'T do is put the nitrate on top of the butyrate.  Some have always done this.   I never really understood why but it works out OK.  I have a gallon can of Nitrate here for some unknown reason and may eventually do the same as dope is now over $100 a gallon..

Dave

Robert I appreciate you writing about your methods.  Your ship are always beautiful and very light.  My only question is about the wet sanding/polishing.  I've found I have to have a minimum of four clear top coats-cut only 1/3rd- to stand a chance of not sanding through into the color.   Even then I usually find I still do go through in just a few swipes along edges and rounded spots.........

Dave

Quote from: Dave_Trible on July 15, 2026, 05:04:26 AMKen you CAN use up the nitrate you have by using it for the first coats and covering the airplane, then switch over to butyrate for the color and top finish.  What you CAN'T do is put the nitrate on top of the butyrate.  Some have always done this.   I never really understood why but it works out OK.  I have a gallon can of Nitrate here for some unknown reason and may eventually do the same as dope is now over $100 a gallon..

Dave

And that was the question!  Thanks and I will do just that.

Ken

In my experience pure nitrate finish doesn't come as glossy as butyrate unpolished. Both buff out wonderfully. The majority of my guitars are nitrate finished and nitrate is the primary bonding agent for some of the 4/4 fabric prosses so having nitrate on hand is a necessity in my shop.

The late HLG & F1A ace Lee Hines told me that Nitrate was a much better ADHESIVE than Butyrate, so was better for applying covering, particularly for undercambered surfaces (and Polywog Chiefs, of course). I haven't done any tests to prove that. I did weight checks and found that the only coat of clear that added significant weight was the first coat.  Steve

I fly 1/2A and don't expect planes to last for more than a few years.

For the last few years I been using clear sanding lacquer as if it were nitrate. then I topcoat with butyrate. I hope to try Deathpaint 2k sometime soon,.l and am considering Rust-Oleum (primary colors, black, white and a mixing cup) and a catalyzer/hardener for more nitro-proofing.