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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Dwayne on April 24, 2019, 02:43:36 PM
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Hay all, I had the post that Rustolium 2X clear was not fuel proof. I cleaned up the effected areas and re shot with 2X and then shot Spraymax 2K clear over, waited 24 hours and put a little 15% on it and almost immediately it reacted and started to peel, this is getting very frustrating.
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Hay all, I had the post that Rustolium 2X clear was not fuel proof. I cleaned up the effected areas and re shot with 2X and then shot Spraymax 2K clear over, waited 24 hours and put a little 15% on it and almost immediately it reacted and started to peel, this is getting very frustrating.
Mix or out of an aerosol can?
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Mix or out of an aerosol can?
Can
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Either the Rustoleum wasn't thoroughly dry, the 2K stuff not adequately compounded, and an incompatibility of the 2K stuff to anything enamel. You should have just went with the 2K stuff and forgot the 2X Rustoleum clear. It's kind of redundant even if it did work. I don't recall ever hearing that the Rustoleum 2X is worth using at all.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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I personally use the Minwax Polyurethane Clear Gloss in a can and it does work for me with my 1/2a high nitro planes. As well, it does not 'yellow' light colors, even white. Now only sold at Lowes, as they bought Minwax.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-11-5-fl-oz-Gloss-Oil-based-Polyurethane/999913663
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And as a matter of fact, I just sprayed my Ringmaster Jr. today with it.
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Either the Rustoleum wasn't thoroughly dry, the 2K stuff not adequately compounded, and an incompatibility of the 2K stuff to anything enamel. You should have just went with the 2K stuff and forgot the 2X Rustoleum clear. It's kind of redundant even if it did work. I don't recall ever hearing that the Rustoleum 2X is worth using at all.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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I had already covered the plane with 2X and didn't want to strip the whole plane and start again, Spraymax 2K was suggested.
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I had already covered the plane with 2X and didn't want to strip the whole plane and start again, Spraymax 2K was suggested.
Just curious, Dwayne. Can you tell that the paint has actually been catalyzed when you activate the little dodad on the bottom of the can? It seems to me that you are completely blind as to what happens when you do that and just have to trust it. Once I get my collective building act back together again, I'll be going the Nason route and spot applications. I've seen other guys results and if you don't have an airbrush or other painting equipment, you could probably use one of those reusable aerosol dispensers that some guys are having good luck with. Then you can have the best of both worlds.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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I would point out that no paint is fuel proof. Many are fuel resistant to one degree or another. Lacquer is somewhat fuel resistant. Kinda. Catalyzed polyurethane clears are more fuel resistant than just about any other paint but will succumb to raw fuel.