stunthanger.com
Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: jim gilmore on March 23, 2015, 11:29:57 PM
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I have posted here because I have more questions and looking to place it where I will be able to find the answerd I receive...
First of let me say that I am not expecting a finish that will garner any awards. I am a sport flyer and tend to build 15 or smaller powered airplanes.
My first questions is that I though that somebody had mentioned using a water based sanding sealer. But no clue if it was something somebody had created buy adding power to something or purchased as a water based sanding sealer.
Does anybody have any suggestions on water based sanding sealers for small models.
My second though is that I am guessing that I will seal and paint the the body/vertical fin and horizontal stab/elevator.
So that leaves just the wing to cover with some type of film.
Unless there is a way to seal silkspan on a wing that I am missing or forgetting.
I want to stay away from dope as much as possible.
I will use either white glue, epoxy and superglue as need arises.
I thought that somebody once had suggested using furure wax as a sealer for silksppan but not sure is that had worked or anybody else has been using that. I have no worries about anybody else using fuel around my models since I am in a rather isolated place.
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Minwax Polycrylic on the wood, applied VERY sparingly for the first coat. Get one or two full coats on, fully dry and sanded between coats, then put on silkspan and sand. You can seal with just Polycrylic, or Polycrylic with talc -- but if you add too much talc you'll have adhesion problems; just enough to make it sand easily is probably wise, and be sure to go over it with fresh sharp sand paper before the top coat.
Top that with Rustoleum Gloss Protective Enamel from a spray-bomb or from a quart can if you have spray equipment. It's actually not that bad brushed, using acetone or possibly enamel reducer as a thinner (acetone dries very fast). Be easy on the stuff -- it's easy to really lard it on, which shows up in the plane weight (I have a lot of heavy planes).
Cover open structures with 'coat (Mono- or Ultra-). If you start with very clean 'coat you can do trim with the same Rustoleum. It sticks even better if you take some copper or steel wool and scuff up the coat where you're going to paint.
As long as you cover all the Polycrylic it'll be fuel proof, so when one of your slime-powered buddies accidentally spills fuel on your finish or coats your plane with exhaust fog you won't have any finish problems. Edit: if, that is, you let the paint cure for two weeks before you splash it with fuel.
I'm on Year 2 of a Fancherized Twister that I painted this way, and my only big problem is that one of the trim colors was painted a week after I painted the base coat, and it's got adhesion problems. This is the only time I've had problems, and also the only time that I've painted trim more than 48 hours after I painted base. So next time I do that, I'll scuff up the base coat.
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php/topic,30238.0.html
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Tim, is there a photo of some of or one of the models you painted this way ?
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The lettering here is vinyl, everything else is 'coat and paint.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=27915.0;attach=122651;image)
With vinyl graphics added to the tail:
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=27915.0;attach=123109;image)
Lettering on wing is Monocoat, all the rest of the red is Rustoleum. Rustoleum white on the fuse, 'coat on the wing:
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=22001.0;attach=93057;image)
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You may find this thread illuminating. I don't think I start painting until the second page:
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php/topic,22001.0.html (http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php/topic,22001.0.html)
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You can also go with water based paint like http://www.autoaircolors.com/ and use a polyurethane topcoat. Either single stage or two stage.
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I second the suggestion of using Auto Air Colors after using them on a couple of projects. They go on over pretty well anything, you can clear coat with just about anything and they have a range of wild and crazy colors and effects (pearls, sparkles, metals, candies etc) that you'll be hard pressed to find anywhere else. Virtually no odor and clean up with plain old soap and water. It doesn't get much better than that.
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Hoovie,
On AutoAirColors:
It can be a pain to get to dry sometimes. If you live in a humid area, better get out your hair dryer or be willing to wait awhile between coats. It does have an intercoat system that allows you to seal stuff between trim colors but the stuff takes some learned skills to get it to work well.
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I doubt that I will try the auto colors since I have no wish to use anything that does not come in a spray can...
A 14 foot trailer means limited tools and storage...
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I doubt that I will try the auto colors since I have no wish to use anything that does not come in a spray can...
A 14 foot trailer means limited tools and storage...
If you're building models in it, it means a serious dedication to the sport!
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Hoovie,
On AutoAirColors:
It can be a pain to get to dry sometimes. If you live in a humid area, better get out your hair dryer or be willing to wait awhile between coats. It does have an intercoat system that allows you to seal stuff between trim colors but the stuff takes some learned skills to get it to work well.
AutoAirColors paint is designed to be lightly misted on using several successive very light coats to obtain proper coverage. Do not expect to get happy results going for full coverage with one (or two) heavy coats. If you lay it on thick, you will hate it. Lightly dust it on and it is very user friendly. Patience.