I am having to build in my office so smell is an issue.  Does anybody know of a finishing product that doesn't smell too much or dissipates quickly?  I am all electric, so fuel proofing is not an issue. 

Ken

I love the look smell and feel of a newly buffed out dope finish. Kind of like a new car smell but different. 😁

Ken,
The System Three that Brent posted looks good for electric kinda like clear coat/base coat. It seems to be available in reasonable size amounts. If you want to spray it look into the Preval System at Home Depot or ACE hardware many places have them.

If you want to go the rattle can route look at the Montana Colors or Liquitex from art stores they are both water base again like clear coat/base coat and will need a top clear. I have use KBS Diamond Clear (single component clear in rattle can) with them and had very good results. just do a light dust coat then a final coat not to thick and it is great even for IC.

Best,     DennisT

https://www.systemthree.com/collections/paint-varnish/products/pennant-topside-paint

https://uvlsclears.com/uvls-clears
https://uvlsclears.com/scenix
https://autoborne.com/
https://wickedairbrushcolors.com/

Brent

Have you actually used any of these on models? I've used the System Three on some projects and wasn't totally impressed with it as it has a slightly milky appearance. Not too bad but present. The finish buffed out nicely though and is super tough. I'm curious about the weight and cure time experience. Waterborne finishes seem to be the way to go health concern wise.

I am having to build in my office so smell is an issue.  Does anybody know of a finishing product that doesn't smell too much or dissipates quickly?  I am all electric, so fuel proofing is not an issue. 

Ken

Ken: Monocoat. No smell and looks great if done correctly.

Jerry

After seeing a plane that the late Carl Schoope did many years ago that to look at was flawless in my opinion.  It was done completely with MonoKote and you could not see the seams or overlaps.  It takes time and patience to do properly and being electric you don't have to worry about fuel creeping under the seams  and edges.  I've done several planes using the mylar finish both over and under Poy-span and Doc paper.  Ihave also done the mylar over poly-fabric from the fabric strores.  If you look through the finish section of this forum you will see some of my planes.  The best friends of mine enjoyed not having the dope odor in the shop too.  Rest in peace Sandy and  Teddy.  Still have Prissy keeping watch over me.

Polyspan applied with ModPoge then covered with SLC is odorless, light weight and tough. For color use park flyer covering film.

Resurrecting this topic....which version of ModPoge did you use? I, too, am looking for an odorless finishing system beyond moneycote for electrics.

I did an adhesion test with polyspan a while back. Polycrylic, nitrate dope and CA glue were about the same but modpoge was a fail. It just barely sticks. ymmv

Can you elaborate?  I am stuck having to cover in an envoronment that will not allow any of the things you mentioned.  When you say barely, does that mean you can't seal the edges then shrink the Polyspan?  Did you try painting the wood surface first with ModPoge?  What about after the polyspan is on.  Is it a decent finish?

Ken

Ken:

I've been using EZE-Kote (EK) from Horizon Hobbies.  It's a single part resin that is water based and it is fuel resistant.  Odor is not an issue.  Formulated for model building, it is intended for use applying fiberglass.  Similar to Polycrylic but can be sanded in about 30 minutes.  Sands great by the way.  There are some tricks to using it.  If used straight out of the bottle, the water base can warp the structure (Ask me how I know).  I begin with a very thin mixture of about 15% EZE-Kote and 85% alcohol, painting both side of the part at once.  As the surface builds up you can reduce the alcohol.  After sealing the surface, add some Zinc Stearate and it makes a good filler.  Seal after filling with a thin coat of the EK and your ready for paint.  For covering open bays, I first cover just the open bays with SLC film, with about 3/4 inch border.  I then cover the whole surface (wing, stab, etc.) with silkspan using the thinned EK to attach the silkspan to both the wood frame and the SLC at the same time.

Jim

No odor to speak of.  I brush it on.

One thing I've been thinking about trying is this.
Zpoxy finishing epoxy spread on raw balsa surface, squeegee off as much as possible, wipe off the rest (like for sheeting a wing), let it cure completely. Then come back and put 2 coats of polycrylic water-based polyurethane, and with the 3rd coat cover with silkspan/doctors paper (basically using polycrylic like dope). Fill with a few more coats of polycrylic, sand well, and move on to colors (marine top coat cones to mind).
Anyone try this? Will it work and be sort of lightweight? This would be for an electric plane.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

Steve,
I have been using ZPoxy with 1/2 ounce fibreglass cloth on fuselage, stabiliser, elevators and rudder. Sand off fill with lacquer based auto primer, sand off, repeat as necessary, then lacquer based auto colour.
I don't know what polycrylic is but 5 coats, before colour sounds like a lot.

Wings, I ZPoxy, sand off, dope on silkspan, dope to tighten it up then primer etc.

Last model was a Vector 40. 7 ounce finish from bare wood.

I hope this helps
Craig