stunthanger.com
Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Mike Griffin on January 10, 2014, 09:43:59 AM
-
I was wondering if anyone had ever tried this. Covering built up wing with Polyspan or Silkspan, doping and painting it and then cutting out camo patterns from monokote or ultracote, ironing them to the painted surface and then clear coating. My main question is if the iron on low heat would affect the paint as you iron on the camo swatches....
Thanks
Mike
-
Mike,
I can give you my experience, but I have not ever tried this over dope. First of all, any heat shrink covering over an open bay is very difficult due to the elasticity of the base covering. But over a sheeted or solid surface it's works well. Monokote requires high heat to stick and if you are going to use it, I recommend using Windex (with ammonia) or Trim Solvent. Low heat coverings (including Ultracoat) can be heated to the surface with good results. I have done this over surfaces painted with Rustoleum, Nelson's, and Duplicolor with good results. Note, the smaller the trim piece the easier it is to work. Trapped air bubbles are always a problem so I cut larger pieces into several small pieces. Edges blend together well and are not noticeable. I suggest you try practice pieces first. This will tell you whether dope will work, but also it will allow you to get the iron temp exactly right. Iron temp is very critical!
Paul
-
Thank you Paul. I was going to use dope just to fill the silkspan or polyspan and then use like a beige spray paint for the base coat and then iron down the camo swattches of the plastic film. I am only using the dope to fill.. then I will prime over that, then paint and then put the plastic pieces down.. will Windex stick the plastic to the painted surface without having to iron it down ..??
Thanks
Mike
-
Mike
To my knowledge, Windex will only work with Monokote due to the chemical formula of the adhesive. I've tried it with other coverings and it didn't work. To use for Monokote, just spray a film on the surface and place the piece in position. Squeegee out all the bubbles and let it dry overnight. The problem is that Monokote is not very flexible and hard to use on compound curved surfaces. Econokote is much easier to use, but I don't know if Windex works or if you can get it in camo colors. I've had the best results using Ultracoat with a low temp iron setting and working the piece gently from the center to the edges. I put a handkerchief over the iron to prevent scratching the covering. I always get bubbles, but I puncture them with the tip of an x-acto blade and iron the area down with very low heat. The good news is that the low heat setting will allow you to heat the covering off if you don't like the results and try again (sometimes several times). Good luck, it can be done.
Paul
-
I was wondering if anyone had ever tried this. Covering built up wing with Polyspan or Silkspan, doping and painting it and then cutting out camo patterns from monokote or ultracote, ironing them to the painted surface and then clear coating. My main question is if the iron on low heat would affect the paint as you iron on the camo swatches....
Thanks
Mike
Mike,
There's all kinds of printed vinyl with camo patterns. These you just peel n stick, no heat necessary AND they can go on wet.
I would google "military camo vinyl graphics" bet you will find something that will work.
Give it a try!
Charles
Edited: For Photo.
-
Charles is correct, but I have found that the adhesive is not fuel proof. However, I have not tried this in several years, so the adhesives may have improved since then. It is easy to apply that's for sure.
Paul
-
Thank you Charles. I had not thought of that. Thanks to you also Paul.
Mike
-
The one word to describe this is.....heavy. Vinyl is heavy, and the extra clear to seal the edges against peeling is additional weight. If you want a quick and easy camo job, go iron on coverings from the beginning, or use an iron on covering as a base and paint in the contrasting colors. I've done it both ways. Vinyl is incredibly heavy when you start putting it on in large areas. That's worth repeating. If you have a dope finish already started, you are about half way finished, so I would advise to finish in that medium.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
-
The one word to describe this is.....heavy....
Dan McEntee
============================================
Will second THAT.
-
The good way to do this is DON'T DOPE THE POLYSPAN! Then the monokote will bond down perfectly to it with no bubbles. The film provides the strength that doping would provide. Less work, less money, quicker, lighter, easier. What's not to like?
-
So, what did you end up. Doing?