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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Claudio Chacon on October 10, 2011, 08:36:42 AM
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Hello guys,
Have you ever applied Lustrekote over nitrate dope?
Are these two compatible?
Any inputs welcome!
Cheers,
Claudio.
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Nobody? ???
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Claudio
I have use MonoKote over tissue and Nitrate and Buyerate both - have received 18 appearence points. Use low heat that should be the key with lusterkote.
Norm
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Claudio
I have use MonoKote over tissue and Nitrate and Buyerate both - have received 18 appearence points. Use low heat that should be the key with lusterkote.
Norm
Thanks for your reply Norm, but "Lustrekote" is a model paint, not an iron on film:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEBE3&P=ML
Regards,
Claudio.
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Ops !!!!!!!!!!!
Oh liquid MonoKote
Norm
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In short, it works fine. I have done it on several sport profile models. No problems at all.
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Thanks Clint H^^
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I have been using nitrate dope as a base for years. I have followed with Butyrate dope, Lusterkote, Rustoleum and epoxy. Absolutely no problems with any of those finishes. Apparently, you can apply almost anything over nitrate dope.
Jim
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Have you ever used Lustrekote, Claudio? I painted three combat planes with it, and I am embarrassed to take them out in public. I could sand it off and try again, following the instructions more closely, but once I get it sanded off, I think I'll just brush on some good paint.
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I have been using nitrate dope as a base for years. I have followed with Butyrate dope, Lusterkote, Rustoleum and epoxy. Absolutely no problems with any of those finishes. Apparently, you can apply almost anything over nitrate dope.
Jim
Thanks for your input, Jim. Much appreciated.
Claudio.
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Have you ever used Lustrekote, Claudio? I painted three combat planes with it, and I am embarrassed to take them out in public. I could sand it off and try again, following the instructions more closely, but once I get it sanded off, I think I'll just brush on some good paint.
Hi Howard,
No, this is the first time. I'm painting a "Cosmic Wind" for a friend of mine, just the fuse and tail feathers (monocoated wings).
I started with two coats of Lustrekote white primer, sanding 24 hours later with #600 (wet). Followed with Lustrekote "Cub Yellow" on the stab and elevators first (not glued to the fuse yet) and noticed that after the THIRD coat it wasn't covering as it should. I was getting an uneven color and a weird "translucent" finish in some areas. Just plain ugly. I must say the the can was shaked for more than 15 minutes before starting to paint and the day was perfect: 35% relative humidity, 78ºF. I didn't want to make things worse so I quit with the yellow, waited 24 hours and sanded most of it off.
Switched to "Jet White" and it covered completely in the second coat. Although I'm not quite satisfied with the results (there are some areas shinier than others, don't know why...) it's OK for a trainer model and it's fuelproof.
Concerning the "Cub Yellow": or the can was too old or the amount of pigment in it is not enough. I'll never know.
Bottom line is, if you want a really nice finish, better stay away from aerosol paints.
Regards,
Claudio.
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With any rattlecan finish, warming up the can and contents in hot water first gives the best finish. The can will spray better and the paint seems to flow out better.
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With any rattlecan finish, warming up the can and contents in hot water first gives the best finish. The can will spray better and the paint seems to flow out better.
Thanks Larry, I've never thought of that technique.
Will try it next time, for sure.