stunthanger.com
Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Ward Van Duzer on April 14, 2010, 07:52:15 AM
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OK. Let's just say I want a quick clear coat on a .60 sized stunter. How many cans will it take? Will one coat do it, or will it need two? No, I'm not looking for twenty points! Just need to protect my inklines and vinyl decals.
Thanks!
W. :P
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I did a C avalier with 2 cans rub out, so I would say 2 cans 3 cans if you plan to rub it out.
Jimmy
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Just remember Lustrekote will run easily, also if your finish is dope don't touch up over the clear it will turn to GOOOOO. At least mine did.
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Haven't found any "in stock" clear yet. Is now on order...Can this clear be put over (SIG) Pressure sensitive decals?
Wet?
Dry coats, then wet coats?
Or?
Yes, I'll try it first!
W.
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I am not "clear" on the comment about touching up. Exactly what steps were involved?
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I tried touching up a hole in a wing tip without any prep on the Lustrekoted surface. I put on a silkspan patch and the dope got all goupie over the cleared covering. Guess I needed to sand the area around it unlike a dope cleared area.
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Ward,
I used to use Lustrekote over dope for all of my models, lot's of them. From my experience you can safely spray Lustrekote over any brand of dope and any vinyl or waterslide decals, including all of the Sig ones. I did occasionally have the gloss clear come out with actual bubbles in it about the size of a pinhead that would land on the surface and then stay there because it dries so quickly. I had it happen often enough that I quit using the Lustrekote clear altogether. I then went to Midwest's "Formula U" clear (over Lustrekote over dope) until they discontinued the Formula U. I then started using Minwax aerosol urethane (over Lustrekote over dope) and it worked nicely but was quite brittle after a while, like less than a season. Any aerosol urethanes should be OK over any decals from what I've seen.
You CAN NOT however use dope in reverse order over any of these. It will absolutely not stick at all and the more you mess with it the uglier it gets. Been there, done that...once. (It didn't work the second time either ;D) So if you use Lustrekote the only repairs you'll be making will be with iron on film or completely stripping everything back down to the wood. If you get out the iron you have to really watch the heat or it will goo-up, but it does work.
The best move I've ever made though is finally "biting the bullet" a little over a year ago and investing in a compressor and a couple automotive detail guns and now spraying Brodak dope. I could probably have six complete spray setups for the money I spent on Lustrekote over the years. y1
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Wow!
Thanks to the Leester & wwarbird I am forwarned and forarmed!
THX!
w.