You need to carefully test the cleaner, I had Prepsol, remove the dope finish when I used it to clean before the clear.
Denatured Alcohol also removes dope if it is freash, some of the pro paint store cleaners also will smear or remove fresh dope
I use lighter fluid (naptha)a lot to remove things like tape marks.
I have also used 50% rubbing alcohol then naptha quickly before painting that worked well.
One thing that is a pain is every time I go buy the same product at the pro paint store ,it seems like the formula has changed.
Randy
Hi Randy,
I have found that DuPont's "Prep-Sol" is a quite different product from Sikkens M-600 in a few ways. Prep-Sol tends to leave a film that needs to be removed with a wipe of DuPont's enamel thinner (the enamel thinner is a very "low-aggressive" solvent.) Prep-Sol itself is more aggressive than Sikkens M600 with respect to attacking finishes.
That being said, I fully agree with you that "
You need to carefully test the cleaner." I would also not ever use any cleaner to wipe a freshly applied finish of any sort, including two-part polyurethane before it has cured (the cure time varies, depending upon ambient temperature, how "hot" the activator, etc.) I have found that I can successfully use the M600 on dope after a day of drying here in So. Cal. with no problem. The basecoat of a basecoat/clearcoat system should never be wiped with any solvent; the basecoat is very fragile until clearcoated.
"
One thing that is a pain is every time I go buy the same product at the pro paint store ,it seems like the formula has changed." Yeah, thanks to our beloved EPA.