stunthanger.com
Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: t michael jennings on May 02, 2013, 06:11:35 PM
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Gentlemen,
This is not an all inclusive test, but the results may be of benefit to some model painters.
The info below concerns a test on the fuel resistance ability of Krylon (rattle can) enamel paint.
Started with four different cans of Krylon paint; 1) Brown 'gloss', 2) Brown 'satin', 3) White 'satin', and 4) Clear 'gloss' and painted a 6 inch wide wood board. The paint dried on for a two of days.
Then applied model fuel with 10% nitro content to the board and kept the board wet with the fuel for 4 days.
At the end of 4 days, the fuel had not soften the paint. Attempted to wipe off the paint, it did not come off on the rag.
My conclusion is that the Krylon paint is fairly fuel resistant.
A modeler should be able to use the Krylon as long as they cleaned their aircraft after the day of flying.
I have no involvement with Krylon paint company.
This is not a guarantee that Krylon is 100% fuel proof.
It does give me confidence to use Krylon paint and consider it fuel resistant.
T Michael Jennings %^@
Knoxville, TN
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Gentlemen,
This is not an all inclusive test, but the results may be of benefit to some model painters.
The info below concerns a test on the fuel resistance ability of Krylon (rattle can) enamel paint.
Started with four different cans of Krylon paint; 1) Brown 'gloss', 2) Brown 'satin', 3) White 'satin', and 4) Clear 'gloss' and painted a 6 inch wide wood board. The paint dried on for a two of days.
Then applied model fuel with 10% nitro content to the board and kept the board wet with the fuel for 4 days.
At the end of 4 days, the fuel had not soften the paint. Attempted to wipe off the paint, it did not come off on the rag.
My conclusion is that the Krylon paint is fairly fuel resistant.
A modeler should be able to use the Krylon as long as they cleaned their aircraft after the day of flying.
I have no involvement with Krylon paint company.
This is not a guarantee that Krylon is 100% fuel proof.
It does give me confidence to use Krylon paint and consider it fuel resistant.
T Michael Jennings %^@
Knoxville, TN
"T"
You may be on to something here!
May I make a suggestion.
Your test board with the Krylon colors. You could take it to your local Auto Body Shop, and ask them to apply a "wet" coat of "two part" clear over it.
They probably spray clear every day or wish they did. ;D
So they would be glad to "hit" it with clear, most likely for no charge.
If there's no reaction to the Krylon base color, there could be an opportunity.
Myself, I personally would finish any painted model with an Automotive product two part clear coat. But that's me.
I would be interested in your results?
Charles
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If you do have someone else spray your clear, don't let anybody know about. As far as me I don't worry how people get the paint on their planes. Now after reading your results I may try it on the plane I am working on now. Don't know if it was the primer or the reducer, but the foam has softened in places on the wing. Did the procedure of spackling compound on the foam til it was smooth. Then put silkspan on with water based acrylic clear straight out of the can. Did three coats with just enough sanding to smoothe the surface. After several days I sprayed the gray primer. But, it is a knock around plane just for flying.
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My last three stunt ships have been finished with Krylon cans with automotive two-part clear on them and are still flying, one of them, my Crosswind 1, is now ten years old with over a thousand flights on it. I use 10% fuel all the time, don't always clean the ship as well as I should, and have had absolutely no issues with the finish.
Here's a clue, I just finished my Pawnee with Krylon but needed some black for the anti-glare panel on the nose - I found a can of Rustoleum black already in the shop and used that; NO -NO-NO!!! It reacted just like lacquer over enamel. (That's more than likely just what it was.) I scraped the whole mess off the nose with a plastic card and started over. HB~>
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My last three stunt ships have been finished with Krylon cans with automotive two-part clear on them and are still flying, one of them, my Crosswind 1, is now ten years old with over a thousand flights on it. I use 10% fuel all the time, don't always clean the ship as well as I should, and have had absolutely no issues with the finish.
Here's a clue, I just finished my Pawnee with Krylon but needed some black for the anti-glare panel on the nose - I found a can of Rustoleum black already in the shop and used that; NO -NO-NO!!! It reacted just like lacquer over enamel. (That's more than likely just what it was.) I scraped the whole mess off the nose with a plastic card and started over. HB~>
"Good" Will Hinton,
OK, so you're saying you cannot place Rust-o-leum over Krylon, correct?
You CAN, use auto two part clear over Krylon, correct?
Does Krylon cans have those new fan type spray tips?
I could never really get the hang of spraying with an aerosol can. Especially on large areas. Requires paying attention?
Your Pawnee is completed?
Charles
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Krylon is NOT fuel proof! Period! It is not fuel restent its not for use with glow without a top coat. If you use it anyway don't say you didn't get warned here.
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My last three stunt ships have been finished with Krylon cans with automotive two-part clear on them and are still flying, one of them, my Crosswind 1, is now ten years old with over a thousand flights on it. I use 10% fuel all the time, don't always clean the ship as well as I should, and have had absolutely no issues with the finish.
Here's a clue, I just finished my Pawnee with Krylon but needed some black for the anti-glare panel on the nose - I found a can of Rustoleum black already in the shop and used that; NO -NO-NO!!! It reacted just like lacquer over enamel. (That's more than likely just what it was.) I scraped the whole mess off the nose with a plastic card and started over. HB~>
I'm guessing it was NOT Gloss Enamel but Flat Black ? ...which I believe is not Enamel.
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I just rechecked the can and it says "gloss black" on the bar code sticker. After I "fixed" the screw-up I primed the area, then dusted it with the same stuff, and I mean DUSTED until it had covered the primer and it's okay, waiting on the two-part clear.
Robert is right, ya gotta cover the Krylon or pay the price, at least in my experience. I hope to spray my clear today, but life is trying to keep my away from it! I just had to have this SH break!
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Check out the post here that says "Rustoleum Painter's touch" information. I think Robert and others have shown me the reason for my problem with the black panel on my Pawnee. HB~> HB~> HB~>
as a Krylon user, this is precious info for me!!! Thanks guys! H^^ H^^
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Check out the post here that says "Rustoleum Painter's touch" information. I think Robert and others have shown me the reason for my problem with the black panel on my Pawnee. HB~> HB~> HB~>
as a Krylon user, this is precious info for me!!! Thanks guys! H^^ H^^
wanted to confirm it so I sent an email to Krylon. Official answer:
.... Due to Federal VOC restrictions on solvent based paints, we were forced to change the formula from a lacquer to an alkyd. Lacquers can be recoated anytime, whereas alkyds need to be recoated within one hour or after 24 hours. Once the alkyd resin starts curing, if a new coat is applied over it, wrinkling will likely occur.
The old version is still available through our "Industrial" distribution as such products are not as regulated as "Consumer" paints are - which is our line. However, it will not have the new spray nozzle etc. You can find these products at such suppliers as Grainger or Fastenal.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?op=search&searchQuery=krylon+Krylon&Ntt=krylon+Krylon&sst
=All&L2=Paints&operator=mfgRefinementSearch&originalValue=krylon&L1=Krylon
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...tial&N=0&Nty=1
It is NOT fuel proof, fuel resistant is is not fuel anything so use at your own risk.
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The little A-26 profile (probably seen here more times than that well-known RC Pattern ship!) was dusted with "Painter's Touch" rattle cans --- topped, after one month, with Ace satin polyurethane. No apparent problem with 25% nitro, although its short (2-year) life probably wasn't a fair test.
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25% nitro is a pretty tough test for any finish! Nice airplane, Mike!!
Thanks for the info, Robert - I have a Fastenol less than 1/8th mile from me!!
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The little A-26 profile (probably seen here more times than that well-known RC Pattern ship!) was dusted with "Painter's Touch" rattle cans --- topped, after one month, with Ace satin polyurethane. No apparent problem with 25% nitro, although its short (2-year) life probably wasn't a fair test.
Mike,
That is absolutely a fine looking airplane, sorry about your loss with it.
Any reason you haven put a second one together?
Rocket hard points and all!!
Charles
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The little A-26 profile (probably seen here more times than that well-known RC Pattern ship!) was dusted with "Painter's Touch" rattle cans --- topped, after one month, with Ace satin polyurethane. No apparent problem with 25% nitro, although its short (2-year) life probably wasn't a fair test.
Do you think maybe it was painted before the formula change or painted with the industrial type paint they mention? Of coarse that doesn't much matter after you topped it with Ace satin polyurethane. Polyurethane is plastic, so pretty much the same as a fuel bottle.