stunthanger.com
Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Mike Griffin on August 07, 2011, 03:07:11 PM
-
I cannot find a thread on here pertaining to applying Japanese tissue. Has anyone got advice on how to apply this?
Thanks
Mike
-
Step 0: Get decent tissue. There's a lot of c**p out there these days. If money isn't an issue, buy only "Polyspan" from Sig, or Esaki (I think they're the same thing). Esaki is made by a modeler, for modelers, and it's probably as close to perfect as you can get. I have some of the EasyBuilt "domestic" tissue that's bearable to use, and some Peck Polymers domestic that's barely good enough to wrap shoes (I got it from my LHS, and A2Z may well have improved things since then).
EasyBuilt models seems to be an excellent source.
Step 0a: I'd seriously consider using lightweight silkspan for all but the smallest of 1/2-A models. Unless Sig silkspan has really lost it's quality, it'll be stronger and easier to apply than tissue. But -- you're the one in charge.
I assume you're talking control line gassie, here. The set of instructions for indoor rubber power are different (no final dope coat, doping the frame is optional, stick the tissue down with glue stick, etc.).
Step 1: Prepare the wood by putting on at least two coats of thinned clear dope, sanding between coats. You don't have to get all the grain out, but you want the last coat to have not raised any "fuzzies".
Step 2: Apply it dry, or just barely damp. I've always applied it dry, but since the last stick & tissue plane I've built I've seen a video of a guy applying it damp, by spraying it with a spray bottle from a foot or two away (he waved it in the sprayed air, with a helper holding the sprayer). The way it went around complex curves was amazing -- he covered a Spitfire fuselage with two sheets of tissue, which darn near had my jaw on the floor. He used Esaki, by the way; I don't think you could pull this off with the stuff that comes in kits.
Dry tissue does not stretch. Hence, you can't go around compound curves with dry tissue. The old way you did compound curves on a stick & tissue model was one strip of tissue for each bay. It looks like dampened tissue solves that.
Stick it down with unthinned dope. You may run across directions that have you dope the frame heavily, and stick the tissue down with thinner. This works with old American tissue, but Esaki is not porous enough -- you have to use dope on the side you're sticking, or it won't adhere. Or maybe this works if you're using nitrate dope -- I've always used butyrate.
Note that some folks use glue stick. This is superlative if you're building for rubber power on an un-doped frame, but I'm not sure of the adhesion you'll get if you've doped the framework (I think it may work -- I just haven't tried it).
Step 3: If you apply it dry, dampen it to shrink. Spraying it with water is probably the second-worst way to do this -- wetting a cotton ball with 70% isopropyl alcohol and rubbing down the airframe leaves just the right amount of water behind after the alcohol flashes off. Needless to say, don't do this in a closed room next to a wood stove...
Step 3a: If it doesn't shrink enough the first time, you can try again. If you get desperate (like, if you didn't take my advice about using good tissue) you can get it wet with water and sometimes it'll shrink more.
If you're applying it over solid balsa it's a good idea to apply it damp, particularly if it's Esaki (other tissues may shred).
If you're applying it over compound curves it's a good idea to apply it damp. Once again, particularly if it's Esaki.
I hope this helps. There's other folks out there who are better at this than I am, so if they weigh in take what I've said with a grain of salt.
-
Hi Tim
Thanks for taking to time to post that. I really appreciate it.
Mike
-
Ty: did you get Esaki from A2Z, or did you get their 'domestic' stuff? I know the stuff I got with their name on it wasn't good, but as far as I could figure it was from about the time that they bought Peck Polymers, and so probably isn't representative.
I love Esaki tissue!
-
See reply to same question, Stuka Stunt Forum. No sense repeating it here.
-
Have a look at this web site, (http://www.ffscale.co.uk/)
I think there is an article on jap tissue covering in there too? Beautiful models too. Brings back memories as well.
Cheers
-
??????
-
What's up Doc? (I think the rabbit said LL~) just click on the blue type :)
Cheers
-
Guess I have went color blind. See no blue type. ???
-
Ok, it is a washed out blue, just run the cursor over the bit that says "Have a look at this website" and click on it. Make sure you have a look at Chris Starleafs models, especially the Italian SM 79 tri-motor.
Cheers
-
Tricky hiding the site address that way. It, the sentence is black on my screen. Thanks. H^^
-
Condenser paper is air tight. It is used on some kinds of indoor free flight models. We used it to cover 1/2A free flight stabs. Thinner will go through it, but dope will not. I can't picture a tissue thinner would not penetrate.
-
HI Mike,
A "little" late, but I want to emphasis that you DO NOT WANT to get the Jap Tissue real WET when applying it. I'm scared to even do it "damp" although I have. When it gets really wet it will tear with the slightest stretching. I basically do everything the way Ty does it, and spritz it with alcohol once it is dry. I use it covering solid wood parts a whole lot of times. CF veil gets pricy when doing a full size stunter. And it DOES work great on open bays. Some of the "old timers" used it exclusively for covering their stunt planes, and it does usually come out as a much lighter finish. The ones that used colored tissue were really pretty ships since the tissue when just doped with clear is pretty translucent. Lets you show off all the pretty woodwork/building you do.
Bob Hunt has a great DVD on covering with Jap Tissue.
Bill
-
Esaki tissue retains its strength when wet, unlike tissue made with wood fiber.
-
Esaki tissue retains its strength when wet, unlike tissue made with wood fiber.
Real Japanese tissue is made from rice. Esaki must be made from long grain rice, hence the improved wet strength. ;) ;) ;) But is it Gluten-free? H^^ Steve
-
I had heard it was bamboo, but the picture looks more "grassy" to me -- maybe it is rice stalks.
http://www.esaki-model.com/english_html/plyspan.html