Step 0: Get decent tissue. There's a lot of c**p out there these days. If money isn't an issue, buy only "Polyspan" from Sig, or Esaki (I think they're the same thing). Esaki is made by a modeler, for modelers, and it's probably as close to perfect as you can get. I have some of the EasyBuilt "domestic" tissue that's bearable to use, and some Peck Polymers domestic that's barely good enough to wrap shoes (I got it from my LHS, and A2Z may well have improved things since then).
EasyBuilt models seems to be an excellent source.
Step 0a: I'd seriously consider using lightweight silkspan for all but the smallest of 1/2-A models. Unless Sig silkspan has really lost it's quality, it'll be stronger and easier to apply than tissue. But -- you're the one in charge.
I assume you're talking control line gassie, here. The set of instructions for indoor rubber power are different (no final dope coat, doping the frame is optional, stick the tissue down with glue stick, etc.).
Step 1: Prepare the wood by putting on at least two coats of thinned clear dope, sanding between coats. You don't have to get all the grain out, but you want the last coat to have not raised any "fuzzies".
Step 2: Apply it dry, or just barely damp. I've always applied it dry, but since the last stick & tissue plane I've built I've seen a video of a guy applying it damp, by spraying it with a spray bottle from a foot or two away (he waved it in the sprayed air, with a helper holding the sprayer). The way it went around complex curves was amazing -- he covered a Spitfire fuselage with two sheets of tissue, which darn near had my jaw on the floor. He used Esaki, by the way; I don't think you could pull this off with the stuff that comes in kits.
Dry tissue does not stretch. Hence, you can't go around compound curves with dry tissue. The old way you did compound curves on a stick & tissue model was one strip of tissue for each bay. It looks like dampened tissue solves that.
Stick it down with unthinned dope. You may run across directions that have you dope the frame heavily, and stick the tissue down with thinner. This works with old American tissue, but Esaki is not porous enough -- you have to use dope on the side you're sticking, or it won't adhere. Or maybe this works if you're using nitrate dope -- I've always used butyrate.
Note that some folks use glue stick. This is superlative if you're building for rubber power on an un-doped frame, but I'm not sure of the adhesion you'll get if you've doped the framework (I think it may work -- I just haven't tried it).
Step 3: If you apply it dry, dampen it to shrink. Spraying it with water is probably the second-worst way to do this -- wetting a cotton ball with 70% isopropyl alcohol and rubbing down the airframe leaves just the right amount of water behind after the alcohol flashes off. Needless to say, don't do this in a closed room next to a wood stove...
Step 3a: If it doesn't shrink enough the first time, you can try again. If you get desperate (like, if you didn't take my advice about using good tissue) you can get it wet with water and sometimes it'll shrink more.
If you're applying it over solid balsa it's a good idea to apply it damp, particularly if it's Esaki (other tissues may shred).
If you're applying it over compound curves it's a good idea to apply it damp. Once again, particularly if it's Esaki.
I hope this helps. There's other folks out there who are better at this than I am, so if they weigh in take what I've said with a grain of salt.
Topic: Japanese Tissue (Read 1683 times)