stunthanger.com
Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Paul Taylor on January 27, 2013, 12:01:13 PM
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I did a search and there are a lot of threads stating that sandable dupli-color primer will work under dope.
Is this the right stuff?
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Absolutely not! The only spay can primer that works 100% of the time is NAPA Colorline Part number DC540 gray primer
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What about this one?
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/fillerPrimer/
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What about this one?
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/fillerPrimer/
Read my responce, Absolutely not! The only spay can primer that works 100% of the time is NAPA Colorline Part number DC540 gray primer
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Aye Captain! You must have hit the post button to quick cause your first reply just said "Absolutely Not!" LL~
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I agree with Robert. Unless the product specifically says it's lacquer, don't even try. Even if it is lacquer, you are taking a chance unless the product is formulated for whatever dope you're using.
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Just got back from NAPA with the right stuff !
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I did a search and there are a lot of threads stating that sandable dupli-color primer will work under dope.
Is this the right stuff?
That's it Paul, keep you coats fairly light, it will dry rapidly and sand easily. Hewavier coats seem to make it gooy and it takes quite a while for it it firm up.
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It should be noted that you can use all kinds of things that can work. I've used all kinds of incompatible materials and had it come out fine. But you are taking a chance when you do. I've used Dupli-color products in the past and it's worked fine. I've also had some problems with it. Any lacquer finish is going to be susceptible to temperatures, humidity and pressure. Urethanes not so much. It's a touch deal to guess and that's why Mark Scarborough and I often preach that you are better off to use materials that are designed to work together. Many folks have use Sig dope with Dupont 3608 and had great success. But these materials are specifically designed to work together so what you often get is a narrower window in which the stuff will cooperate. I finish planes in an area of very high humidity and marginal temps. As a result, it can get dicey trying to use products that ARE designed to work together. Were I finishing planes in Tucson, I wouldn't be as concerned.
You pays your money and takes your chances.
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Very true Randy. I got the stuff Sparky suggest. Same part number. I got the fuse and moving parts painted.
Robert is only a little north of me so we have about the same type of weather.
It was 73 on my drive home this afternoon!
Anyway it's on and looks like it will sand off fairly easy. I figured if he used it and landed on the front row I might be able to land on the same field. LL~
And thanks everyone for the quick replies.
Stay tuned.
PS- man my finger hurts.
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Yeah, any serious painting with a spray can just kills my finger.