There is nothing really in a single component spray can. There is some stuff out that is ion a spray can, that you activate a catalyst in the can and you have a varying amount of short time shelf life before it all kicks off. If you have spray equipment, look into the Nason two part system that is what used to be DuPont. It comes in quarts, is thinned ready to shoot, just mix up what you need with catalyst. Do a search on the forums for it. We have several guys that are world class luthiers ( they make stringed instruments) and several of them use it. Only concern yourself with the nose and tank area and the leading edge of the wing near the fuselage. No need to do the whole airplane for fuel proofing. Make your trim paintings, then shoot clear dope. If all OK then do the nose and such with the Nason. If you ever have to do a repair on the wings and such, it will be lots easier just dealing with dope. It will also be a bit lighter as the dope will gas off, but I don't think the two parts stuff does.
   This is a subject that has been asked about almost as much as "How to  you set up a FP, LA. 40?"  There is lots of stuff from the hardware store that in opaque colors is fairly fuel resistant, not fuel proof, but there has been a world wide search for the magic bullet clear that is fuel proof, and I believe it doesn't exist in a single part spray can. Top Flite had their Luster-Kote paint out, and their clear wasn't too bad, but there were problems just spraying that stuff and with Great Plains going bankrupt, I think it was pulled from the market.
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

   Tower Hobbies is still around, bought out of bankruptcy by Horizon Hobbies. The Great Planes product line was drastically cut back. This was within the last year, and at this point in time I'm not sure what all is available from Tower. I haven't been on their website in quite some time. For doing the little jobs, an air brush or a Harbor Freight gravity feed touch up gun should do the job.
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

Butyrate dope, clear or color, is not fuel proof.  Some formulations might be more resistant than others, but none are as fuel proof as the two-part products.

I have heard that the Sig Lite Coat clear dope is the most fuel resistant as far as clear goes.  I sprayed it on my last plane so we shall see.  Brodak Crystal Clear, from what my tests showed, has almost no fuel resistance.  It dulls even if fuel is wiped off almost immediately.  Randolph clear is about like the Sig regarding fuel resistance, maybe not quite as good.

Anything can yellow or fade over time.  I do not know of a way to stop that.

There is a product called Diamond Clear coat, or something like that.  It is a one-part system, no catalyst needed.  It can be sprayed or brushed.  I have never used it but it might be something to investigate for fuel resistance and compatibility with other finishing systems.

One thing I discovered the hard way concerning Butyrate clear dope that might apply to colored dope:

I mixed "fade proof" ink with Brodak's clear and prayed this on over "B-25 silver" for a metallic finish (Brodak's 'candy' colors faded fast in the sun).  I either did not final-coat with clear, or used too little, because the fuel (5% and 10% nitro) really took that finish off. I had assumed that, since my paint was based on clear, it would stand up. After cleaning off my plane's nose, I sprayed clear butyrate generously. With just a couple or so

 days to set, I flew the plane, and no more fuel damage occurred. Apparently the clear is much more fuel resistant pure than it is with pigment added.

SK

I use this, and have yet to have a problem. I have only used this on 1/2a planes, but I am also using 20% nitro.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-11-5-fl-oz-Gloss-Oil-based-Polyurethane/999913663

Chancey,

Does the Miniwax Polyurethane go on over Sig dope? Is it crystal clear or varnish color? Last, how long do you let it dry/cure before it is fuel proof?


Best,    DennisT

 

Wholly Crap James!

You friggin Found IT!!!

That is SO Sweet.
No more filtering or mixing or CLEANING.

Kinda pricey. But Very convenient.

 
It has a shelf life after you mix it?
How long have you noticed it to last??
I just assumed, use and then throw away.

I have used this 2K Maxs product over Sig dope with very good results. After activation I applied a second top coat over dope after one week and it was just fine. It is completely fuel proof, just be careful and use gloves and a good high quality paint mask and apply outside or in a paint booth. There is another product from Spraymax.com - 2K Rapid clear coat (Prod. No.: 684 06), 8.5oz, this is a little small amount and is good for a top coat on an normal size stunter for one coat and a second around the nose/tank area (https://www.ebay.com/p/SprayMax-2k-Rapid-Cut-Clear-Coat-250ml-Spot-Repair-Faster-Drying-Spm-3684064/9019631343?iid=332468368274&chn=ps) about $17.75 per can.

Go to https://www.spraymax.com/en/products/product/clear-coats-and-spot-blender/2k-rapid-clear-coat/ for application information.

Best,   DennisT

Valspar makes a clear, water-based floor varnish with polyurethane in it.  It is fairly fuel proof to spills as long as you don't let them sit.  For planes this is only good as a top coat or a sealer base coat.  It is too hard and brittle to use directly on silkspan or other covering.  The finish will craze as it dries.

If you really want fuel proof get epoxy or polyurethane 2 part paints, or autobody 2 part clear, heavily thinned.

I've been using rattle can Rustolium for color, then shootiing over it with the Minwax. So far up to 25% fuel doesnt effect it. But the Rustolium alone is NOT fuelproof, contrary to what I've heard from other folks. The Minwax makes for a nice finish too.

The Rustoleum 2x isnt fuel proof.  The Protective Gloss Enamel is after you let it cire for week or 2.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk