I want to try these this time. Substrate and color in Brodak, I willing be clearing with the same. There seems to be quite a few companies on the net to buy this from, I'm just wondering what's working for people here on the forum. TIA.

Being from the UK the brand names may differ but the method I use is the same as Larry.

 I get mine from a site called Crafty Computer Paper ( http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/.-Inkjet-Water-Slide-Decal-Paper_151.htm ). I Could not be happier with either the service or the product. A couple of observations.....

 The clear transfer paper is next to useless on anything apart from a white or very light background. You can't print white so any design which contains white must be printed on the white paper. Don't ask... Obvious I know.....  . Any transfer over about 8" needs very careful handling, if you stretch it the ink and lacquer surface will crack and it's game over if still damp.... Use a "very" sharp blade to cut the transfer, slightly blunt and if you are cutting along an ink boundary the ink/lacquer will splinter leaving a less than crisp edge.

Of the 2 models below the "Buster" uses the white decal paper and the "Ringmaster" uses the clear paper (White for the vertical stab decal).

TTFN
John.

Randy:

What ink & printer do you use, and how does it stand up in the sun?  I've read the exact opposite advise: use the UV stuff, or suffer from fading!

I finally broke down and ordered some decal paper, which is now burning a hole in my pocket.  The next plane I build, no matter how ratty, is going to have some decals on it!

I have an old HP 5550 inkjet printer. Works pretty well, overall. I don't have any fading issues, but then, I have sort of stayed away from reds and yellows because they seem to fade no matter what you do. Most of my decals over the past couple of years have been black and white with some occasional blue.

Dang.  The decals that I bought the paper for most definitely include RED in the color scheme.

Maybe I'll make up some with regular Krylon, and some with the UV protectant stuff.  I wonder how it blurs things?  Is it getting translucent instead of clear, do ya think, or is it actually making the ink migrate around?

I just brush a couple of heavy coats of clear dope over mine as soon as the ink has dried. Then brush more over them after they are on the plane to seal the edges.

It's definitely the ink migrating. I suspect that there is some additive to the paint that mixes with the ink. The regular stuff probably lacks that material.

I wonder if you could make it work with a coat or two of the UV protectant stuff after the regular stuff.

I use decal paper I purchased from Micro Mark.  My ink jet printer is an HP 6500.  The main problem with ink jet printers is the ink does not penetrate into the decal medium, but lays on the surface. Once dry, I too use the Krylon clear, not the UV stuff. I apply four coats.   After I apply the decal to the plane, I over spray it with two thin, dry coats of clear to seal the edges. Once dry , then I go over the entire plane with clear in the normal "wet" mode.

Laser printers are much better for color depth and brightness.  But I can't afford one just for the few items I print.
I'm not sure if Kinkos or such have laser printers, but worths the look..

Kinkos does have color laser printers and plotters. You just have to make sure use a file type they support. You may or may not have an issue with them running decal paper through their printers however, they don't like to use media that has the chance of jamming and hosing up their color laserjets.

I got the paper today, thanks for all the input. I don't have it with me right now and I don't recall who I ordered it from, but I will let everyone know how it all worked out. It's going on an Oriental that's done using Windy's method. I'll try to get some photo's up after the clear is done.