stunthanger.com
Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Chris Keller on June 30, 2009, 04:08:43 PM
-
I should have known something like this would happen. Looking for a cheaper alternative for finishing than dope, I tried rustoleum sprays. I was going to finish a profile smoothie with silkspan and rustoleum, but figured I better try it out first on something a little smaller. I decided to try out the finish on a 1/2a flightstreak. doped the flightreak and put on silkspan same as always. total about 3 coats of clear to seal the wing and the body. Then I sprayed on a coat of rust. primer and wetsanded it. sprayed on another light coat of primer and switched to canvas colored rust. went on great, looked good. the rustoleum really sticks to the dope no problem the problem came when I tried to switch colors of rustoleum. Mind you I let all the coats of dope / primer and rustoleum dry for about 2 days between coats before applying some maroon trim color. i wet sanded the white and sprayed on the red - looking awesome. let it dry for a day and removed the masking tape. No problems as of yet. masked off the canopy to paint it silver. sweet. took the tape off the canopy and the red under the tape came right off with it. Isolated incident i thought, but did a couple of more test spots. the red hadn't adheared to the white on 75 percent of the plane. Short of the long, i had to rip the silkspan off, sand down to dope and start over. I'm positive that I did everything I should have and maybe i just got a bad batch of red, but I think I'll just accept the cost of dope from now on. Sure am glad I did a test plane before really screwing something up. I should have known...... Anybody have any similar experience with the old rattle cans?
-
Lets see some photos....yeah I think the problem is that paint as a whole is a minefield.
-
A favorite harp of mine.
HEAT HEAT HEAT!!!! even a hair dryer on hi is warm enough to stop those lifting problems. Even low tac tape these days sticks like a turd to a blanket, a little warm air and it will nearly fall off.
I use heat no matter what finish I've applied, even dope.
-
Heat wasn't the answer - in some places i could peel the red off the white with my fingers leaving a clean white surface underneath. Interestingly enough, where the red did stick, dope thinner bubbled it right off the white, but the white seems impervious to the dope thinner. I figured rustoleum was rustoleum, WRONG! I was even planning on using spray minwax polyurethane to gloss everything up - didn't get that far. Oh well. I'll see if i can get some photos of the aftermath. This was about a week ago and haven't had the motivation to jump back into it, so the fuse remains in limbo, but the wings are stripped. This is why i have a few planes going at once, so when one ticks me off, i can switch.
-
Very odd, I have a Shoestring done in white Monokote and white and red Rustoleum. The red is trim over both the Monokote and paint and I had no problems at all with adhesion on either when it was built nor when I did some repairs. I do know some of the Rusoleums are different, like the silver and clear are not all that fuel proof. I'm thinking EPA forced reformulations of many of these products are causing some of the problems we never saw before. I know they've really managed to screw up some lacquer products I used to count on.
-
I use a med coat clear in between colors to keep your paint work from lifting.
So far it has been going really well. And i still use a heat gun to remove tape.
It really does help. H^^