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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Dane Martin on May 17, 2015, 08:33:33 AM
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As it turns out, rustoleum is very fuel resistant, but not to raw 20 %. I have already painted my sport jet with rustoleum but in a contest situation, the raw fuel is going to spill on it, and might not get cleaned up quick enough.
So, if rustoleum needs to off gas for two week's to get its full cure, how long do i need to wait to clear it?
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Dane, what specifc kind (semi-gloss, metallic, gloss protective, etc.)?
I've dribbled 35% onto a test piece painted with gloss protective enamel with no problems -- not even discoloration. But that was after several months of cure time.
If you do the prep with Polycrylic and the top coat with Rustoleum, and if anything (even just methanol) gets under the Rustoleum, then you'll get blistering.
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Dane
Where you are at (Vegas) it should not take that long to gas off.
I would safely wait a week then hit it with this stuff:
http://www.repaintsupply.com/spraymax-2-part-2k-urethane-aerosol-clear-coat-p3685.html
I have spilled 60 and 65% nitro fuel on it and have NEVER had a problem with the stuff.
I have models cleared with this for 10yrs. and still nice and solid and bright.
Just remember to scuff the colored paint with some WET 320 - 400 paper. dry it,
mist on one coat, let set for about 10 min., mist on coat #2 and wait for about 10 min.,
then hit it with a smooth wet coat, hang it up to dry and the next day, put the sport jet back together
and hit the pylon.
I have even tested this clear on our OLD SCHOOL jet mix of Alc, Nitro, Prope and Benzine. didn't faze it a bit.
Carl
p.s. I like your covering job you are doing on your Twister.
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Unless you have some specific reason for wanting to add the clear I wouldn't bother, the colors are way more fuel resistant than their clear. Rustoleum does take a long time to cure, in any conditions. The key is letting it fully cure before it sees any fuel at all, I usually give it at least a week. Allow that and will be super durable and you'll have no problem. D>K
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Sorry for the delayed response, and thank you for the replies. My phone broke, just got a new one.
Tim, scratch the fuel resistance issue, I realized its where my paint had terminated and the fuel got under the paint from inside the bladder compartment.
Second note would be, I do not plan on using rustoleum clear, as I've had no good experiences.
The reason for the clear is after the paint, on some planes I like to add decals, and then clear over that. Any thoughts? I have a friend with automotive clear who will do it for me.
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Hi Dane. I agree with Carl, though I haven't tried the clear he recommended. But I looked at it in his link and saved it to my painting folder to try sometime. With the zero humidity where you live, a week should do, just mist it first. Jim Roselle, aka JPVelo at Coxengineforum, lives in NM and puts them in his hot car for a day or so and says that does the job.
Rusty
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Sorry for the delayed response, and thank you for the replies. My phone broke, just got a new one.
Tim, scratch the fuel resistance issue, I realized its where my paint had terminated and the fuel got under the paint from inside the bladder compartment.
Second note would be, I do not plan on using rustoleum clear, as I've had no good experiences.
The reason for the clear is after the paint, on some planes I like to add decals, and then clear over that. Any thoughts? I have a friend with automotive clear who will do it for me.
Dane,
I believe the auto clear will do the trick. I've been using auto clear since the 80's and have had absolutely no issues with it. PLUS, you have a shop that will spray it for you.
Gee, I've been suggesting that for years! ;D
With that clear coat, an option, but not really necessary, would be to reduce all trim color tape line edge heights with a scuffing of 600, if you're careful.
"Good luck."
A line from the movie Taken.