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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Tom Weedon on September 05, 2009, 07:56:57 AM
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Over the years I bought AeroGloss dope at our local swap & shops with the intention of using it some day on my furture C/L airplanes. Well, the day has finally come and I am slowly shifting from R/C to C/L and FF like I played with many years ago. But every time I finish a model in Aerogloss dope, the finish forms many surface cracks and chips away. You would not believe my Veco Thunderbird. It had a beautiful purple gloss finish last spring, but now it is all cracked and pealing. What to do, what to do?
Question: What primer and clear dope can be used with the old AeroGloss dope? I have too much just to through away. What say ye experts????
??? ??? ???
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Are you using plastisizer (sp) in the dope? Might help with the cracking.
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I have used banana oil and Castor oil in the older dopes.. I used to love the smell to.. when we were kids (1969), we would joke the Sterman Red smelled like cherries... about that time they started adding something to the paint because people were "huffing" it... what a waste of good dope.. a 4oz bottle was .50 cents..
Also Brodak makes a "Restorer".. you could try that on the bottom wing first...
Jim
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Sell it on eBuy.... VD~ Steve
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Where do you pour them out to ?
So who has all this aero gloss ?
what cololrs do you have ?
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Hi Tommy. Guess why very few use Aero Gloss anymore. They changed the formula and the labels and they are not compatible with each other let alone SIG or Brodak dopes. n1 Guess how I learned this. y1 H^^
Uhhh?
Were you also one of the folks like me who were fortunate or unfortunate to receive "Care Packages of test batches of Aerogloss from the factory.
Those years I was incarsirated at the Boeing Wind Tunnel serving my 29 year sentence.... as a professional wind tunnel grunt model maker....I would always look forward to receiving test batches of new Aerogloss fomula's that I made a habit of giving to all my local addicted CLPA model grunts.
I can assure you...that I was ESPECIALLY CAREFUL...IN TAKING NOTE OF THE SERIAL NUMBERS ON EACH TEST BATCH RECIEVED.
I can also ASSURE YOU that very often the culprit with each of the batches....was that the AEROGLOSS THINNERS during those years was NOT COMPATIBLE with many of the test Aerogloss serial #s.
However during those years...I also had a large supply of various thinners and primers that seemed compatible at that point in time.
I often would make up many many small 3" by 7" strips of balsa...(taking care to record the batch #s and then carefully utilzing ONLY THE SAME BRAND AND SERIAL#S in prepairing the balsa wood....and taking that all the way to the final finish samples.
(I was often perplexed that even with this kind of careful R&D steps....and often send many samples back n' forth....through snail mail...and various "collect phone calls" my generous gifts from AeroGloss.)
Ahhh, yes!!!
When I stopped flying competition and took on another Boeing job title in the winter of my work life before retirement LL~....I lost my endorsements and free-bee gemmeeees in the process.
BOTTOM LINE:
STILL NOTHING IN THIS WORLD TO ME... NEVER BEATS A BEAUTIFULLY DONE AEROGLOSS FINISH?
Opps! I don't mean this to be mean spirited VD~....since today we see so many many beautiful finishes using all kinds of products. Guess it all boils down to the gifts and talents of the artistic soul of the beholder and lots n' lots of LUCK! n~
(u kun tell that sniffin' all those paint thinners n fumes taint'turt me a rattt-uh-tatt tatt! LL~ H^^
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BOTTOM LINE:
STILL NOTHING IN THIS WORLD TO ME... NEVER BEATS A BEAUTIFULLY DONE AEROGLOSS FINISH?
AMEN Donaldo!
Tom: I think the plasticizer trick would be your best shot. I do not know what to recommend for the thinner tho...
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Maybe I missed it, but what are you putting this over? and what thinner are you using
it really sounds like a reaction to the undercoats to me.
perhaps using the same thinner in the substrate and the top coats would help. What you are describing to me sounds like an incompatability issue between the substrate and top coats.
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Please don't say your pouring it on your grass.Even into the trash is a no-no.
I'd love some 4 ounce bottles of red white and blue....
after all I do not need gallons to paint a 1/2a fuselage.
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Maybe I missed it, but what are you putting this over? and what thinner are you using
it really sounds like a reaction to the undercoats to me.
perhaps using the same thinner in the substrate and the top coats would help. What you are describing to me sounds like an incompatability issue between the substrate and top coats.
Mark...
I would bet you are about????? 99.99999 % right on...that is sounds like a thinner problemo's
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I though i read a long time ago about using a drop of castor oil in dope to make it more pliable when it dried. Worked as a plasterizer but I am going from memory here...anybody else ever heard this ?
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In my experience, any Aero Gloss is too much. VD~
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Growing up the only dope I ever remember using wad areoglosss.
But that was a long time ago...
Sooo Tom is it. You have too much are you looking to sell some off ?
What do you have ?
4 ounce bottle ?
I'd buy a few .
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In my experience, any Aero Gloss is too much. VD~
LL~ VD~ TOO MUCH??? H^^ H^^ LL~
Hey Take a look through old vintage model mag-rags of the past...
History has proven that AEROGLOSS has WON WAAAAAAAY MORE AWARDS THAN ANYOTHER FINISH. y1 H^^
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That sounds like the Ambroids ads showing Billy with his Ares. Now tell me that was a kit built Ares. In our part of the country it was Testors Dope. DOC Holliday
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I used Aero GLoss on all of my R/C planes in the 60's and 70's, without problems. When rubbed out it would outshine everything else. When I started flying C/L again in the early 90's, I used it again. Big problems. I used only Aero Gloss from the wood out, and it did the same thing as you found. It would craze and crack. Went to Randolphs, and Sig, and am a happy camper. I do think it might work OK with some plasticizer in it. Sure would be worth a try. If I was to use it again, I would add 8 drops of castor per pt., and use Dupont 3608s thinner, as it seems to work better for me than most of the "dope" thinners. You can put butyrate dope, such as Sig, or Randolphs, over Aero Gloss, just not the other way around. I have used Aero Gloss for the substrate on several planes, and that seemed to work fine, as long as the colors and top coats of clear were butyrate.
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I've found that using castor oil as a plasticizer with aero gloss can heal the crazing that seems common. Use a LOT, 1 tablespoon per quart, and prepare for it to take a week or more to dry after a clear top coat. But I've had a couple of junkers full of crazed paint lose all of their little cracks that way. Try it on a small patch first. Tom H.
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I thought from the title he was looking to sell some or something but I guess Not...
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Please don't say your pouring it on your grass.Even into the trash is a no-no.
I'd love some 4 ounce bottles of red white and blue....
after all I do not need gallons to paint a 1/2a fuselage.
Actually, in the trash is approved by the EPA goons that come around my shop in So. Cal., as long as it is dry when disposed of in the landfill. Even empty paint containers have to be set out to dry completely prior to disposing of in the dumpster. As for the Aerogloss cracking, that is the norm for Aerogloss since they changed the formula a few years ago, ask Walt Pyron of P-39 fame. You might mitigate the brittleness and cracking of Aerogloss by adding a little of Dave Brown's "Flexall" plasticizer, but you would be better off considering your Aerogloss stock to be a sunk cost and starting with fresh Sig or Randolph dopes/thinners.