Building Tips and technical articles. > Paint and finishing

Hello, my name is Steve, and I'm a procrastinator

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Steve Berry:
I've been on this forum for years, bouncing from one train of thought to another. I've started and stopped a few builds, mostly due to no real place to build since my sis-in-law and nephew have been living with us for a while, using my building room ''. I've also been keeping busy doing a bunch of designing and watching a small library of Windy and Stunt Hanger videos (thanks Sparky!).

Well, I have decided that of the builds I have going, and kits I have in my possession, I'm going with.....a Tom Dixon Tutor Too. It's simple to put together, and with the foam wing already sheeted, should be a quick build. I'll be converting it to electric.

I have a pretty good idea of what to get for the conversion - Okie Air 3D-printed motor mount, either a Cobra or Badass motor, probably some Zippy batteries (at first). I could use some suggestions on the rest of the electronics, but that'll be under the electric forum.

My concern is the finishing of it. As much as I'd love to do a silkspan & dope finish a la Windy, I just don't have the resources for all of that (the dope itself - when did it get so expensive??, spray gun & compressor, thinner, etc). So, my plan is to go with Ultracote. Back in the day I was okay with a Monokote finish, not award winning, but not the worst out there either.  If it was just that, wouldn't be a big deal. Here's the rub - the foam wing doesn't have a spar, so the strength will be in the skin. I was thinking of running some carbon tow from tip to tip with Zpoxy finishing resin, wrapping it around the bellcrank post (did I mention a suspended bellcrank? no, well, I just did) in the process to help spread the load, and placing 2 or 3 ellipses of increasing sizes over the high point center section, centered on the bellcrank post, as well.

That seems to be how Windy did it on some of his foam wings, and I figured if good enough for him, should be ok for me, too. I know about the sanding (sand, sand, sand, check it, sand some more, sleep, keep sanding),, all the way up to about 320 grit to get it nice and smooth & level. I'm just not sure where to go from there. I've though of using MGS epoxies, but they are more expensive than I'd like, at this time. So I guess keep using Zpoxy finishing epoxy. I've also been kicking around the idea of glassing the entire wing to help add strength while hopefully not adding too much weight.

From there....what? I don't necessarily want a paint finish, but if that's the best way to go at this stage, I'd like to know. I want a serviceable finish that won't stink and will be fairly quick to apply. That's why I'm thinking Ultracote. However, I don't want the carbon tow or the fiberglass reinforcement to show right through the covering. So, paint or Ultracote? if Ultracote, what is the proper prep sequence for this application?

Thanks, and see y'all on the circle.
Steve

john e. holliday:
My latest planes are done with plastic iron on films.  I use Poly-Span or doctor paper under the iron on on the wings.  No more dope finishes as I use the spray on paints like Rustoleum and ACE Hardware spray cans.  Even graphics using leftover plastic covering(would say mylar but I was told once mylar is not the correct term). D>K

Avaiojet:

--- Quote from: john e. holliday on April 26, 2021, 07:01:32 PM ---My latest planes are done with plastic iron on films.  I use Poly-Span or doctor paper under the iron on on the wings.  No more dope finishes as I use the spray on paints like Rustoleum and ACE Hardware spray cans.  Even graphics using leftover plastic covering(would say mylar but I was told once mylar is not the correct term). D>K

--- End quote ---

Glad you moved away from dope, after all it's 2021.

"Aerosol" cans, great not having to purchase spray equipment, mix paint then clean everything for each color.

It's catching on but slowly. John, I think if you try Krylon you'll be please with how it sets up, plus you can add trim colors the same day.

Krylon color chart at CFC Graphics vendor's corner.

All my models are Krylon except for one LE trim color.

Steve Dwyer:
I don't know I just can't get comfortable using spray cans. I use DC 540 for primer in a spray can but beyond that I'd prefer a compressed air spray gun to apply anything. I haven't found a spray can that doesn't occasionally spit or works well when used in a near inverted position for those hard to reach areas.

After spending hours detailing and prepping for a finish who would want spit marks? Cans are just too risky in my opinion, I'll stick with the dope and adjustability of pressure and volume. It isn't all that burdensome to set up, mix and clean up, just have ample Acetone available for clean up. And by all means wear a respirator no matter how you are applying airborne paints with solvents, our lungs were not designed for them you'll live longer!

Steve

Brett Buck:

--- Quote from: Steve Dwyer on April 26, 2021, 07:53:16 PM ---I don't know I just can't get comfortable using spray cans. I use DC 540 for primer in a spray can but beyond that I'd prefer a compressed air spray gun to apply anything. I haven't found a spray can that doesn't occasionally spit or works well when used in a near inverted position for those hard to reach areas.

--- End quote ---

    Depending on how comfortable or interested in protecting yourself from raw fuel, the usual automotive base coat colors with a single-part clear is the easy way to go. I am not very familiar with the single-part clear brand names, but it works very nicely, it's just not fuel-proof in most cases. Since it is electric, all you have to do is worry about your flying buddies exhaust.

    Brett

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