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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Dennis Toth on October 21, 2020, 10:51:16 AM
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A question for the Rustoleum fans, can you use a light touch with a heat gun to warm (not hot) the surface a bit and get it to cure a little faster to allow recoat in less than 2 days? Seems once it gets dry to the touch (about 1 hour ish) you could warm the surface (maybe every 6 hrs ish) a bit to speed up the cure for recoat. Anyone do this? How soon can you recoat?
Best, DennisT
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A question for the Rustoleum fans, can you use a light touch with a heat gun to warm (not hot) the surface a bit and get it to cure a little faster to allow recoat in less than 2 days? Seems once it gets dry to the touch (about 1 hour ish) you could warm the surface (maybe every 6 hrs ish) a bit to speed up the cure for recoat. Anyone do this? How soon can you recoat?
Best, DennisT
I may be really far out on this one but I have been using Rustoleum now for 2 years. As long as I am staying with the same color, I recoat as soon as it is dry to the touch and I do use light heat to get it there. However, I never put on a heavy coat so it may not be "apples & oranges". I let it set 2 days before masking.
Ken
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At room temperature, you can recoat in 24 hrs. I would not recommend heat to accelerate drying: it will trap solvents in the deeper layers, and I'm not sure what that will eventually lead to.
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Rustoleum has a recoat window. It is before 1 hour or after 24 or 48 depending on the source. I have had a couple or "crackling" episodes where I viloated that window on the "after" side. My recommendation is consecutive light coats about 15 minutes apart then wait the 48. Overnight is not 24 hours! I also prefer the satan to the gloss. Easy to tell when it is ready for a second coat, patches better and looks the same after the clear. Better colors too.
Ken
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I also prefer the satan to the gloss.
The devil is in the details.
Brett
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The devil is in the details.
Brett
Sigmund would be proud but then I do fly mostly on the "Dark Side" LL~
Ken
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Rustoleum has a recoat window. It is before 1 hour or after 24 or 48 depending on the source. I have had a couple or "crackling" episodes where I viloated that window on the "after" side. My recommendation is consecutive light coats about 15 minutes apart then wait the 48. Overnight is not 24 hours! I also prefer the satan to the gloss. Easy to tell when it is ready for a second coat, patches better and looks the same after the clear. Better colors too.
Ken
Ken,
What "Clear" do you use over the Rustoleum? I've started using Rustoleum and I am very pleased with it so far but haven't used Clear over it.
Thanks for your help in advance
mccoy40
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Ken,
What "Clear" do you use over the Rustoleum? I've started using Rustoleum and I am very pleased with it so far but haven't used Clear over it.
Thanks for your help in advance
mccoy40
I am not the one to answer that. I have used Rustoleum clear with success but you don't get that "New Car" look. Others use automotive and 2k. I have noticed that the Rustoleum clears do not have the same smell which means thay are probably not the same formulation hence, wait the 48.
Ken
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A question for the Rustoleum fans, can you use a light touch with a heat gun to warm (not hot) the surface a bit and get it to cure a little faster to allow recoat in less than 2 days? Seems once it gets dry to the touch (about 1 hour ish) you could warm the surface (maybe every 6 hrs ish) a bit to speed up the cure for recoat. Anyone do this? How soon can you recoat?
Best, DennisT
Den,
Atop using Rustoleum. Use the other brand.
CB
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On top of Rustoleum (and Krylon), Minwax oil-based clear gloss polyurethane works for me. I'm not particular about the fact that it turns slightly yellow given the colors I apply underneath.
Dave Mo...
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I'm a big Rustoleum Protective Gloss Enamel fan. If you get the first coat "right" you don't have to recoat as it covers beautifully in one coat. If you need to recoat,wait until the first coat is totally cured. I'd leave it sit a week. I have never used a clear coat over this product,never felt it was necessary as the gloss is very nice from the can..Another trick is to wait for a nice warm day (75 to 85 degrees) with low humidity and paint outside in sunlight. If you let your painted model sit for a couple of weeks to cure it will be absolutely fuel proof. Best of luck,PhillySkip
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Need help with sealing and painting a foam wing, Can Rustoleum be sprayed directly onto foam, with no adverse effects and is it fuel proof?
Best regards.
Harold Brewer
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Need help with sealing and painting a foam wing, Can Rustoleum be sprayed directly onto foam, with no adverse effects and is it fuel proof?
Best regards.
Harold Brewer
Rustoleum on bare foam will cause the foam to magically disappear.
Low temp colored films like econocoat, and HobbyKing brand film, ect work very well on bare foam. Low temp polyester based clear 1.5mil lamination film is easy to obtain and works great on foam. Phil Cartier's SLC film is a great product for foam.
Peel & Stick polyester films, (previously available as FasCal) are still available from several sources including DK Films in 1mil and 2mil.
DK will sell a 25ft sample roll if you call and ask them nicely.
You can paint Rusto type paint on lamination film.
Solid color Rustoleum paint is fuel proof. Clear and metallic Rustoleum is not fuel proof.