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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Mike Griffin on May 29, 2020, 03:30:54 PM
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This is the first time I will be using Klass Kote Yellow. Do I need to put on an initial coat of Klass Kote White before I apply the Yellow?
Mike
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That's the only way I have done it with Klasskote, but my experience with K&B and Hobbypoxy would also make me say yes, white is required first.
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Thank you Bill
Mike
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Agree with Bill. Although KlassKote has what I consider to be really good coverage, any non-uniformity in the primer coloration will show thru in yellow if you use a single topcoat. And you sure don't want/need multiple layers of color. The KlassKote white primer gives the yellow a nice bright color. Just touch up anywhere you go thru the primer before the topcoat. I have a Bonzo racer that I got lazy and didn't fix some of the primer before the topcoat and you can see it.
McDivot
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Yellow is a fairly transparent color. I'd go with white first.
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I need to add to this discussion. Currently, I am working on a semi scale stunt ship of a British WW II fighter prototype. Calls for trainer yellow on the undersides. The yellow from KlassKote is the correct shade per FSN (source is IPMS). This yellow is a bit darker than most would use on a stunt ship. Model is covered with .2 oz carbon matt, well sanded, filled with nitrate clear then KlassKote primer. Surface was nice and smooth but the primer was not a uniform cover where the dark matt showed through. I thought it would be OK. Well, it was not. The "splotches" showed through, required another coat of yellow, sanding and now ready to apply the next coat of yellow. This yellow is heavy.
Highly recommend using the primer as a solid color as a blocking coat. Or a very light gray on top of the primer.
Keith
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The semi-short answer here is yes, anytime you're painting yellow you want either white or another light (and opaque) color under it. Also, the shade of yellow you end up with will vary greatly depending on what shade of color is used under it. If you want to have any chance of ending up with your intended shade of yellow (like from your color chip, paint sample, or whichever reference your using) you definitely want to start with a nice even bright white underneath. Even then the shade of yellow will change with each additional coat. Not many things are a guarantee anymore, but this is one of that is. y1
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Thank you all very much for your input.
Mike
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This is an excellent article for me to learn by. Long time ago I was shooting Sig yellow on a Southwick Lark didn't understand why the dark spots under the color wouldn't cover. Kieth has explained it well. Considering yellow might be in my future I will try to remember this.
John L.
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With Randolph colors, white undercoat is REQUIRED for both yellow and red. I learned the hard way when I piled-on coat after coat of red and still could see wood grain.
I guess Klass Kote is the same.
Incidentally, Pontiac made some hideous beige and maroon Gran Prix's in which they painted the front ends in the opposite sequence of the Fisher Body which was painted maroon-over-beige. You could see the error from 1,000 feet away, or in a tiny black-and-white photo.