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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Tim Wescott on May 07, 2022, 04:21:25 PM
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I know I've seen the answer for this before, and I'm almost sure it's "stop worrying, it's OK".
Do you absolutely positively need a top coat before you go fly a slimer that's painted with dope? How much trouble will I cause myself if I go flying -- with 10% nitro -- with just a few coats of clear over the colored paint?
Specifically, I expect to have a scale plane that has a few coats of clear dope over the color for the NW Regionals, but to which I may want to add some finishing touches (like, more clear and sanding). I'm expecting that I won't want to put top coat on it yet, because it won't be done -- but the Regionals is the only Control Line Scale event of the year in the Pacific Northwest.
So, will I screw it up? Should I get some 5% nitro fuel or FAI fuel to be on the safe side? When I do put more clear on it, is there anything I should do beyond a Really Good rubdown with denatured alcohol before I paint it some more?
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And what if I wax it? Should I avoid that if I want subsequent painting to go well?
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There are automotive products that say they are "degreasers and wax removers" . Check those out and see what they say about applying it to lacquer. I think plain old Prep-Sol or something like it would be best followed by some warm water and mild. Work everything into the little nooks, crannies and cracks and holes. detergent. Jack Sheeks always wrote that he test flew airplanes before the finish and you know those were doem back in the day.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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Tim,
The short answer is if it is a side exhaust or short muffler then it can cause adhesion problems wherever the residue hits. Raw 10% can cause discoloration spots. The color dope needs at least a coat of clear dope to seal the pigment from absorbing the oils. If it is a tuned pipe you might get away with a few test flights. As Dan said get a good degreaser (Sikkens M600) and really clean it before doing the top coats.
Best, DennisT
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Denatured alcohol could be bad. Use the prep sol. I use PPG Acryli-Clean 330. Windex might do the trick, too.
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I fly everything as soon as the wings are sealed now that I am electric. Back in the days of slime it was after the primer but before I sanded it off. An aggressive pull test and ONE short flight for a slimer. Might try some trim on an electric.
Ken
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The glass cleaner from Safelite Auto Glass does an amazing job of removing residue and oil from a doped surface.
Keith
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Personally, I don't put oil to it until it's completely done.