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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Joe Ed Pederson on October 24, 2019, 10:39:10 AM
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In one of (or more) videos, Windy U. says you need fluorescent lighting, not incandescent, to see the model well when sanding and painting. I'm sure some of you have tube LED lighting fixtures in the old fluorescent fixtures. Do the LED tube lights make the same things visible that Windy said you need fluorescent lights to see?
All I have right now is fluorescent lighting and I'm about to put the silver and color paint on a project.
Thanks,
Joe Ed Pederson
Cuba, MO
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In one of (or more) videos, Windy U. says you need fluorescent lighting, not incandescent, to see the model well when sanding and painting. I'm sure some of you have tube LED lighting fixtures in the old fluorescent fixtures. Do the LED tube lights make the same things visible that Windy said you need fluorescent lights to see?
All I have right now is fluorescent lighting and I'm about to put the silver and color paint on a project.
Windy was wrong, flourescent lighting usually distorts the colors. I think you would do much better with LEDs, get the "full spectrum" kind. They also use much less power.
Brett
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Thanks, Brett!
Joe Ed
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LED's also seem to last much longer. I've been changing out bulbs in my house as they burn out, and fixtures (to replace all the burnt out fixtures) in the shop as I get money and time. To date I've had exactly one LED fixture burn out, and no, or maybe one LED bulb -- that was a cheap ceiling fixture, which I replaced with a screw-in fixture and screwed LED bulbs into.
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Yes, full spectrum. Sometimes branded as "Cree" emitters, or labled high CRI which stand for color rendering index.
Try to go see the lights in use. Grab some reflective items and color chips, probably an aisle or two over...
Many "white" led lights are rather blue and monochromatic, if you wear glasses (I wear coke bottles) you may notice chromatic abberation as your lenses split the light spectrum smearing the light.
Interior lighting is generally much better than automotive lighting (headlights).
Phil
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I haven't seen, (or been aware of) the CRI led's, but I have 9 each four tube led fixtures in my shop that I use the "daylight" type in and they are terrific to work in. I've had five tubes experience what we tech dudes call "crib death", in other words, quit soon after they were new, but still warranteed. If I'm working, they are all on, and I work a lot. My electric bill has not increased all that much after opening up, no more than 20 to 30 bucks!!! Like Tim, I'm changing all house lights to the led's as the others go klaphooey.
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Yes, full spectrum. Sometimes branded as "Cree" emitters, or labled high CRI which stand for color rendering index.
To be entirely clear, Cree is a brand name.
Brett
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Like Tim, I'm changing all house lights to the led's as the others go klaphooey.
I imposed kplahooey on all of my house lights and my electricity bill has gone down. Viva La LED!
Ken
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There is some truth to Windy's statement but it goes much farther. When I worked at a large commercial printing plant, all the presses had a viewing booth. The table was at a certain angle and there was an 8 tube fluorescent fixture above that was tilted at an angle to match. I can't remember the type of tubes, but I think they were a CW-50 and CW-75? They were alternated in the fixture which had a multi-switch that could allow you to have all of them on, or just the 50's, or just the 75's. It had to do with how much red and blue light they put out, or something like that. I didn't get too much into the science of it, just kept the fixtures in good repair and the proper good tubes in them.
I started a thread earlier this year about having all of the fluorescent tubes and fixtures start to die in my garage at the same time! About the same time, where I work now, I was given some LED tubes to update the 48" fixtures over one of our 18 head embroidery machines. I read the instructions that came with them, and saw that all they needed was 110VAC supplied to one end of the tube! Take out the ballasts and wire input power to each pin on one end. All the starters and ballasts needed are in the tube. makes the fixtures a ton lighter, easier to handle and hang. I forget the wattage, or lumins or what ever the rating were, I just knew that I liked them! I checked into various sources on the net and it turns out on of the largest internet lighting stores, "Super Brite LED's" is right near me. I got a on line coupon somehow, and then counted up how many fluorescent tubes were in my house, and ordered up that many. I changed out all the tubes in my garage and was even able to leave out one fixture because I just didn't need it now. I'll change the others as they start to die off. The big thing I like about the LED tubes is that the come on INSTANTLY!, are supposed to last 50.000 hours, and are not affected by cold temps like fluorescent lights are Search that subject out and see what else I passed on, I've slept since then and can't remember.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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fluorescent lighting is brutal with sanding scratches in some respects. it will hide them at some orientations, and they will stand out like a sore thumb in others. i worked with a painter who rigged a a hand held fluorescent tube not to check color, but sand scratches and blend lines in clear. he'd wave it over a surface at different angles looking for scratches he couldn't see using an incandescent bulb.... sunlight "averages out" in all directions, so even a "bad" sand scratch looks "softer" compared to the fluorescent light.
He swore by it at least.... and I've noticed scratches in a garage under fluorescent lighting you couldn't see outside, so maybe there was something to it.
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After buying one of these 4' LED lights I realized fluorescent lights are now obsolete. I will be buying more. It's like you're working outside on a sunny day! Highly recommended! https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07M5SQSF7?p;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image;sc=1&#immersive-view_1574283081784
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After buying one of these 4' LED lights I realized fluorescent lights are now obsolete. I will be buying more. It's like you're working outside on a sunny day! Highly recommended! https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07M5SQSF7?p;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image;sc=1&#immersive-view_1574283081784
Kevin;
There was a thread I posted on LED lighting in recent history. You don't need to replace any fixtures, just remove the ballast and get appropriate LED tubes. They already have what they need to start in the, and you just need to wire 110 volts to one end of the fixture. Instant on no matter what temperature. I got mine from a place called SuperbriteLEDS. Google them, I got lucky and their facility is right near where I live and saved shipping. They were around 6 or 7 bucks a tube but are rated at 50,000 hours! I replaced about ten fluorescent tubes in my garage with these, and the total amp draw for all of them is about what one fluorescent fixture draws!
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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Thanks Dan!
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The main thing to watch out for on more modern fixtures are sockets that have a connection between the pins. There is a term for it that escapes me now, but all you have to do is cut that connection and double check with an ohm meter. Once each pin iis isolated, it's just a mater of L1 to one pin, L2 to the other and green to ground the fixture frame/reflector.. If it's a two tube fixture, just run jumpers from the first socket to the next. The LED tubes will come with instructions to explain what they are. Some tubes are single ended, some are double ended but the single ended variety are the most common I think. The units that I got from SuperBriteLEDS ars so simple I thing Stevie Wonder could wire them up!
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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Shadows can be a problem. I’m afraid of mine.
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Shadows can be a problem. I’m afraid of mine.
Who knows what evil lurks in the dark parts of the work shop..........?
The Shadow do!!!
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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We discussed this at https://stunthanger.com/smf/open-forum/shop-lighting/msg547336/#msg547336
The tubes I got were 5000K color and about 2700 lumens each. These particular tubes are no longer available, but plenty of alternatives exist. One shop bay could still use a bit more light, so I'm considering switching to these tubes: https://www.amazon.com/4FT-LED-Light-Tubes-Replacement/dp/B07Q4TJS56/ref=sr_1_19?crid=MPNPDA0FLYOK&keywords=4%2Bfoot%2Bled%2Btubes&qid=1575623767&refinements=p_n_intended_use_browse-bin%3A5264705011%2Cp_n_feature_nineteen_browse-bin%3A9692451011%2Cp_n_feature_seventeen_browse-bin%3A9692445011&rnid=9692441011&s=hi&sprefix=4-foot%2Bled%2Btub%2Caps%2C238&sr=1-19&th=1 They are crazy bright at 6500 lumens each, but the 6000K is kinda blue.
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For sure lots of alternatives. I've had mine up for a while and I wonder how much has changed in what is available in that amount of time? I prefer the single ended tubes myself. Makes wiring a bit simpler. I imagine there are several levels of quality out there in these also and price will reflect that. I got mine at SuperBriteLeds and haven't been back to their web site since, but I am completely happy with mine. It's gotten cold again and I just love how these come on instantly at full brightness! I bought enough to replace all the tubes I have in my basement also, and as soon as those tubes/ballasts start to croak, I'll replace them also.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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I worked in the Electrical Industry nearly 40 years & installed a few Fluorescents , when we wired a grocery store the Produce had it's own color - number of tube , the main aisles had a different number , the meat had still another number. If you put the main floor tubes directly over the meat it would look purple or green . So if you use fluorescent tubes it might distort the color on your airplane.
When we wired areas at Boeing in their Secured areas we used high discharge Metal Halide & maybe Quartz overhead lighting. No Fluorescents or Sodium Vapor nothing to distort colors or vision.