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Author Topic: Flexible paint types other than dope for open bays?  (Read 672 times)

Offline Kim Mortimore

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Flexible paint types other than dope for open bays?
« on: August 25, 2010, 01:40:07 AM »
In the "Minwax Poly What?" topic, Phil said "Don't use water-based urethane on silkspan over open bays.  It will get brittle as hell.  Works fine over wood and foam though..."

I would like to find a fuelproof paint type that can be used over heat-shrunk polyspan on open bays from the ground up for a completely dope-free finish.  Either water-based or solvent-based.  Does anyone know if such a paint exists?

Thanks.
« Last Edit: August 25, 2010, 05:59:38 AM by Kim Mortimore »
Kim Mortimore
Santa Clara, CA

Offline afml

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Re: Flexible paint types other than dope for open bays?
« Reply #1 on: August 25, 2010, 05:20:01 AM »
Try looking here:

http://www.nelsonhobby.com/paint.html

"Tight Lines!" H^^

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Wes Eakin

Offline Randy Powell

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Re: Flexible paint types other than dope for open bays?
« Reply #2 on: August 25, 2010, 10:23:33 AM »
You can also use automotive urethane (both catalyzed and non-catalyzed). As long as you aren't looking for shrinking.
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Offline Kim Mortimore

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Re: Flexible paint types other than dope for open bays?
« Reply #3 on: August 25, 2010, 01:11:05 PM »
You can also use automotive urethane (both catalyzed and non-catalyzed). As long as you aren't looking for shrinking.

Interesting that auto u works but watery u gets brittle.  One question is whether I need to look for shrink (friends tell me diplomatically that yes I do and one offered a referral) because either the paint will loosen the heat-shrinking or if not, heat alone won't provide enough shrink.
Kim Mortimore
Santa Clara, CA

Offline Randy Powell

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Re: Flexible paint types other than dope for open bays?
« Reply #4 on: August 27, 2010, 09:55:27 AM »
A few years ago I experimented quite a bit with various finishing systems. I would love to use all auto urethane finish (with catalyzed primer) but the key element was that urethane doesn't shrink at all. So it was either build a plane without open bays (all sheet construction) or keep using lacquer for at least open bays. I tried several combinations but the truth is, the incompatibility issues make this difficult; particularly if repairs or alterations were needed.

I finally gave up and went back to good, old dope (butyrate lacquer). So now I use lacquer from wood up through color then use catalyzed polyurethane for a top coat. I just works the best for me. But if I ever do a plan that doesn't have open bays (maybe a foam wing or something), I will consider going back to urethane.
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