I can't point you to a video, but for silkspan, silk, or tissue, put it on wet.  Obviously, this means that (A) you have to have doped the fuselage (but you did that anyway), and (B) whatever you're using needs significant wet strength (so, you're fine for everything except some brands of tissue).  Putting it on wet will help it go over compound curvatures much, much better.  I do this with a spray bottle of water handy, so I can take my time and not worry about things getting dried out.

I haven't used polyspan, so I can't comment other than it sounds like you can coach it around a curve with heat.  So those monocoat skills won't be completely wasted.

Cover as big an area as you can with each piece of material.  For silkspan or tissue, I like to rip the edge where pieces overlap -- this makes a less well defined ridge when it comes time to cover your sins with dope.  I think the principle is the same with polyspan and for silk -- I dunno!  It's always been out of my price range.  Pinking shears?

Tack the edges of the piece down with dope, and for everything but polyspan, it'll shrink as it dries and smooth itself against the surface of the fuselage.  If it doesn't, and it's just a little bit not-tight, sometimes you can re-wet it and it'll dry down to what it's supposed to.  Sometimes not -- then you just shed a tear or two and rip it off and start over.

Humble question from "Advocatus Diaboli" connecting to this topic:
Why don't use some light glass instead of silk, etc. ?
Light glass is far most builder-friendly covering material which ever I worked with during my 53 years long ukie aerobatic career.
And no, nobody is obliged to use some expensive, exotic, aerospace-origined epoxy resin, to work it on, the usual dope (even filled with some talc) is quite proper for brilliant surface. It is sandable with dry, or wet automotive paper, grade 320-1200...
Source? For e.g. 18 grams / sqm  (1/2 oz/sqyd )
https://www.ebay.com/itm/264409010006 
Istvan

Fred, 1st I use light weight silkspan on the Fuse. The Grain of the silkspan goes parallel to the Fuse. I find the shiny side by running my thumb and forefinger over it. Dont worry alot about seams, do your best to keep the overlap small. They WILL DISAPPEAR with further coats and sanding. Make sure you have at least 5 coats of 50/50 Sig Lite Cote on the wood and sanded smooth. wet the silkspan with a spray bottle of water or windex. Make  sure EVERY SQUARE INCH IS COVERED. Tear pieces of silk span with your hands to make patches, no scissors.
 You only need to pull silkspan tight on open bay wings. For the fuse just lay it down over the wing cut out, and drape the damp silkspan on the fuse from the middle out to the nose and tail.  Anything else just ask! 😁 Good luck! You can do it!
Kevin King.

Here is Sparkies video