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Today I have painted two coats of 100% clear over the whole airframe. I am sanding with 600 and fixing any dents. Later tonight I might cover with 00 silkspan. It will then get two more coats of clear mixed 50-50 and continue to fix bad spots. I will continue to fill the paper until it shines then proceed to the gold on the wings back masking for the red.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=137652;image)
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Nice, a start to finish finishing post. Should be some good stuff coming up here... y1
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Here is where I am at today. I have used 1/2 quart of clear dope. What is allotted for my finish is one quart of UN thinned clear and 1 pint of color. How I do this is with a brand new quart I paint 2 coats full strength over the whole plane sanding in between coats with 600. I then attach paper with 50 - 50 thinned dope. So what I do is use 50% of the can of clear and then add 50% thinner to it. That's all I get so I use it sparingly. That is also used for final clear coats and I will not use it all. I go to bed sanding and wake up sanding. As my friend says you must be a sander of airplanes.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=137650;image)
At this point I am still on tract to make my 55-56 ounce weight even though I would have like 52 ounces. I had the best of wood all 4 pound and I used the least amount of it. Along with the least amount of glue I dare get away with. I just don't see how with this type of construction I could make it any lighter. Too much fixed weight.
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No doubt this is one of the most beautiful stunters ever built! Outstanding woodwork, and I'm sure the paint work will match it. Agree with or disagree with Robert's philosophies on aerodynamics and such, but never doubt that he is one of the finest craftsmen ever in this event.
My hat is off to you, Robert! H^^
Bob Hunt
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Sparky,
So far have you been spraying or brushing the clear on the airframe? If you're spraying do you start spraying right from the bare wood?
At this stage on a model I'm always still brushing, but on the last few I've been thinking about spraying right from the start. Seems like it might be easier to keep things lighter that way...
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Brush 2 coats on bare wood 100%, Paper brush 2 coats 50-50 on paper sanding between coats with 600. One sealer coat brushed 60-40% then I start spraying with a airbrush.
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It truly is a beautiful plane.
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Thank you all. The profile is 100% scale the wing has been moved up and is 4 time thicker than scale. The stab and elevator is 2.5 times larger than scale. This will have a scale like appearance and should be quite appealing.
Key visuals are the V shaped fuse (meaning its wider at the top) and 2.25 spinner. Along with head rest and rudder. The wing tips along with the rest of the fore mention things will be a eye drawing items. Now lets hope the finish comes out as planned.
It didn't take me long to figure out what changes were needed to make a electric airplane fly the way I like them to.. Now if all my speculations come into reality this should be a killer plane.
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The scale fuselage is a beautifully aesthetic shape and looks fast standing still. The wing dimensions and relocation are a necessity as the aircraft was designed for speed and maneuverability was not a big consideration. The model has a different mission and it gives every appearance that it will accomplish that. The workmanship is an inspiration.
Joe
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Brush 2 coats on bare wood 100%, Paper brush 2 coats 50-50 on paper sanding between coats with 600. One sealer coat brushed 60-40% then I start spraying with a airbrush.
By "paper" I assume you're talking about all of the silkspan covered areas on the model, and not the polyspan on the wing. Is that correct? If so, that's the same procedure I currently use except that my first two coats on the bare wood are 50:50 instead of 100%.
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There is no Polyspan on this model. Its all silkspan 00
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Hmm, no polyspan this time huh? It makes sense now though, I was wondering about going after it with sandpaper with so little clear on it.
Thanks Sparky, great info! y1
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As I said in the past posts the tips will be a focal point of the airplane. There is a lot of sanding to make these look like one piece of the wing. The weight all up as you see it here is 49.6 with no fillets but all clear and covering on it. SO now its time to put it on and sand it off until its ready to paint. I have bought DC 541 Red primer to use where red will be applied. The grey is where the gold will be. I only have approx five ounces to finish this in.
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well I am 24 hours into sanding and still sanding.
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I hate finishing! It takes twice as much work to finish one as it does to build the D@#^ thing!
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The devil is in the details. Sanding is where all imperfections are removed. The finish is the sanding. Painting is the easy part. Incidentally, I hate sanding also.
Joe
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My wife often reminds me that she can't understand why someone would voluntarily choose a hobby that requires such extensive use of sandpaper. I just tell her it's a zen thing.
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I have been sanding all day and I expect there are many more days left of sanding
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As you know Sparky, it will be worth it in the end. It is very hard to stick with it though.
At this stage it seems like you can work for days and not really get anywhere. I'm at the same point on a model right now, been sanding and touching up for a few weeks.
It's also tough to decide when to finally just pull the plug and start painting. At least for me, whenever I first get done with a model there is always something I end up wishing I had spent a little more time on, or had done differently.
Hang in there Sparky, this should be a good one. y1
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Just a quick shot of it in primer. Not much to see yet. Should be a while sanding this one.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=137756;image)
DC 540 on the wings and DC 541 on the fuse. After I get it where I think its good I will spray 1 coat of 60-40 clear as a sealer and fix any bad spots. Then it will get a dusting of color very thin.
The weights are around the same as the Viper
Viper
__________________________________
Hardware is 27.10
Airframe before paint is 21.20
1st coat 21.75
covered no dope 22.75
dope and fillets 25.10
spary coats 28.25
finised 29.55
55 ounces all up weight flown
6.8 finish
__________________________________
MC 72 finish
Hardware is 25.7
airframe with LG 22.9
no dope 21.65 no LG
covered and doped 23.4
primer and fillets 25.25
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Well,
So much for putting your flaps and elevators on last.
I always said you can paint a model with that stuff tightly in place. If you know what you are doing. ;D
Lookin good !! H^^
Charles
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They are not glued on yet
Sent from my SCH-M828C using Tapatalk 2
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Been thinking about Gold Leaf instead of Gold plate , to emmulate the copper radiators .
Wondering if its possable to apply with dope on a ribbed tissued structure , it must have a bit of malability , rubbed on .
Problem would be sanding it off if you made a blue . S?P
Looking good , the finish is as good as the preperation . ;D Keep sanding ! VD~ H^^
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Been thinking about Gold Leaf instead of Gold plate , to emmulate the copper radiators .
Wondering if its possable to apply with dope on a ribbed tissued structure , it must have a bit of malability , rubbed on .
Problem would be sanding it off if you made a blue . S?P
Looking good , the finish is as good as the preperation . ;D Keep sanding ! VD~ H^^
Gold doesn't look like copper. Why don't you just use copper leaf? Goes on the same way and will be flexible.
You need "size" not dope to apply leaf.
Clear to fuel proof when you're done.
Also, the easy way out. I wouldn't be surprised if there was thin copper leaf, the peel n stick type, available at craft stores.
I have peel n stick copper vinyl, but that's 2-3 mils thick. Up close and personal you could feel the edge.
Plan "B" could be a quality copper paint.
Charles
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I'm still sanding
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I'm still sanding
Robert,
You have more time sanding than I have with the cockpit of the mig-3. ;D
600!
When and if I sand, I'll probably use 400 just to speed things up a bit. Tape the ribs for safety, just in case.
I cannot spend that kind of time sanding a model.
Kudos to you!! H^^
Charles
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an Artist does what an artist needs to in order to create the product he is striving for, if it takes 200 hours sanding,, he sands for 200 hours,,
Sparky,, this is going to be an interesting model,, I look forward to seeing the end result,,
keep on sanding
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I can tell you how long I have been sanding. I have Netflix and I am playing SOA 66 episodes three times so far. I just use it as back ground noise. I think I will have to run them one more time to be ready to paint. Each one is 45 minutes. So about 150 hours so far but if it takes 300 so be it.
http://www.ams.vr.it/PIER/AircWalkAround/Museo%20Vignadivalle/Idrocorsa/Macchi_Mc.72/Macchi_Mc.72.htm
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To do a job right it takes time. One of our club members went to another club members place of business, which is restoring cars. Seen the guys wet sanding a car that was in primer. He said they would make a swipe with what was supposed to be sand paper and then wash. Was told they may spend a week or more just sanding the vehicle getting ready for color coat. Sparky, guess the arms are getting in shape. LL~ LL~
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To do a job right it takes time. One of our club members went to another club members place of business, which is restoring cars. Seen the guys wet sanding a car that was in primer. He said they would make a swipe with what was supposed to be sand paper and then wash. Was told they may spend a week or more just sanding the vehicle getting ready for color coat. Sparky, guess the arms are getting in shape. LL~ LL~
Having some history with restorations,, I can count the weeks spent sanding,, dry sanding with 180 and 240 to get the basic straight right,, then repriming,, blocking again,, repriming,, blocking again,, every prime/block cycle makes it that much closer to perfect,, for example, I spent the better part of a week getting the bodyline correct on a 56 Thunderbird,, it is such a shallow line that two swipes the wrong direction with 240 would move the line 1.8" away from center,, its a process and a mindset,, you just ignore the clock and do what it takes to make it right,,
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Well I am thinking one more day and I will be ready to shoot the base coat of white. Randy had called me the other night and we talked about my red primer. It would my the red paint too dark. SO I sanded most of it off and dusted grey over it. I will shoot a dust coat of white over the whole plane and then the Miss Ashley red will be bright. I might paint a base yellow before gold. The copper come from the lines I will spray in. So no need to suggest decals or vinyl or leaf. I have a plan.
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Couple shots of the mess here. I still am on tract for 55-56 OZ
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=137852;image)
http://www.ams.vr.it/PIER/AircWalkAround/Museo%20Vignadivalle/Idrocorsa/Macchi_Mc.72/Macchi_Mc.72.htm
I am going to try to detail this plane as much as I did my T-bolt. Where I am at now is what makes a exceptional airplane or a mediocre one. It all in the details. When I walk up on a plane I can see who took their time fitting and finishing the fillets and tight spots.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=137850;image)
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Couple shots of the mess here. I still am on tract for 55-56 OZ
If that's a mess, I have an absolute catastrophe on my workbench right now.
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After approx 150 hours of sanding with 400-600 I think its ready for the first coat of color. I am sure there will be some touch up in places. So I will fix any bad spots and repaint those. Pictures to follow later.
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All of the red is on and I have only a few bad spots to fix. It took six ounces of color to paint this.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=137908;image)
The wing tips ,head rest,nose and rudder came out just as planned. They draw your eye to them.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=137906;image)
I just wish it was in the 40Ty's instead of the 50Ty's. But that brick in the nose is a real obstacle. Ten ounces fixed weight is tough to beat.
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Beautiful!!!!
Marcus
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Looks great, using the airbrush?
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<snip>
All of the red is on and I have only a few bad spots to fix. It took six ounces of color to paint this.
I just wish it was in the 40Ty's instead of the 50Ty's. But that brick in the nose is a real obstacle. Ten ounces fixed weight is tough to beat.
...And no CG shift from a decreasing fuel load. Beautiful work!
Now...How did you imbed a link in your other thread pic to direct here??? (That's slick!)
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quote the thread and see how I did it
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Looks great, using the airbrush?
Airbrush only from here out.
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I love watching a front row model develop. Even though I'm light years away from achieving it, it's still great inspiration. y1
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Airbrush only from here out.
What kind of airbrush do yuo use?
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What kind of airbrush do yuo use?
Snap-on but I know they are not made by them.
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gold wings
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=137972;image)
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No more sanding . :(
;D LL~ S?P
Well , just polishing now . :!
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Matt,
I'll answer this one Sparky. This is when the nitty gritty details are added. Then the clear, be for any polishing.
As usual Sparky's work is impeccable!
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Thanks to the good words. This is where the really fun and hard part starts.
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Now is the hard part. All the shading in the radiators.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=138006;image)
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Sparky,
This is some labor ... I love it.
Joe
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Gold is the hardest color I have ever painted. I do not recommend it to anyone. I am glad there is details to be added to hide the modeling of the paint. The clear should make this plane really pop after all the details are on it
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=138006;image)
I painted Diana cream before the gold
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gold wings
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=137972;image)
I once had a Gold Wing... ;)
Bob Hunt
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The Honda GL-s were actually "lead wings"
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I knew the gold was needed on this model, but I still cringed when I saw it here last night. Gold paint just plain sucks, at least any that I've ever worked with.
I assume that you probably already know this Sparky, but I hope you aren't planning to use any tape on the gold. If you do you'll up seeing every spot where the tape was stuck to the gold. If it doesn't show before the final clear, it will after. If you have to tape on it I think it might work to shoot some clear over the gold first, if you're real lucky. Not envying you on this one, good luck. D>K
Hey Bob, seriously, does painting copper have these same issues?
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Simulated radiators.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=138032;image)
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Simulated radiators.
Paint I assume?
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Paint I assume?
Yes
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The Gold just might be a mile deep after the clear goes on... Best of luck!!
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I'm loving it!!
Marcus
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Oil tank detail
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=138090;image)
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The scale fuselage is a beautifully aesthetic shape and looks fast standing still.
Very true...
Peter Germann
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Thanks for the decal Peter. Its all in the details.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=138102;image)
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It's getting serious, the Dr. Pepper is on the bench! :##
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Robert you truly build beautiful planes. I'm very impressed. H^^
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It's getting serious, the Dr. Pepper is on the bench! :##
That's what he wets down the sandpaper with, every day at 10,2 and 4!! The bubbles from the carbonation help float the sanding debris away!
Sorry, just couldn't resist! >:D
I think you just timed this model wrong, Bob. You'll get it done and have to sit and stare at it waiting for decent testing and flying weather! A completion date of somewhere around late March or early April might have been better. I think it's going to be a long, cold winter here this year.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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That's what he wets down the sandpaper with, every day at 10,2 and 4!! The bubbles from the carbonation help float the sanding debris away!
Sorry, just couldn't resist! >:D
I think you just timed this model wrong, Bob. You'll get it done and have to sit and stare at it waiting for decent testing and flying weather! A completion date of somewhere around late March or early April might have been better. I think it's going to be a long, cold winter here this year.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=138108;image)
I will have time for the second one before March. It looks pretty good in these pic's but should look much better after the ink and clear. Look at the airfoil flaps, stab and elevators just like the older airplanes. It always did appeal to me.
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Looks good with the pilot figure in the cockpit also. You can put some of the basic cockpit details in there to help set it off. I imagine the full size airplane didn't have more than a stick, throttle and a few guages, just enough togive you something to see and easy to make. Time to head home from work!
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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Youre thinking of Stanford Tuck . %^@
(http://ts3.mm.bing.net/th?id=H.4729009314597562&w=205&h=155&c=7&rs=1&pid=1.7) :##
THIS is Agello : (http://static.thisdayinaviation.com/wp-content/uploads/tdia/2013/10/AGELLO-Francesco-Warrant-Officer.png)
Had a Pocohontas prince who ha , which wouldve made a good S. T. , The Indian minus the headdress makes a goos Nouvolari . LL~ n1 S?P H^^
Looking Good , Robert .
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Here is a shot of the nose and how the arming switch is installed. Start button is recessed.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=138114;image)
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Very, very nice Robert. Or as the Italians say Excellente' :)
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Even with an arming plug, good idea to have the start button recessed to prevent accidental starts. With the power involved at this level, you can't be too careful. If I were flying electric, I would incorporate that feature.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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All that's left is details. So it all about tinkering from here. I think I might try Tommy Luper's chalk tricks on this plane. I got a pleasant surprise this morning its gassing off and it only weighs 55.10 with everything. I did not make my target weight but I think I will come in around 57-58. There is nothing heavy left to put on except the clear.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=138197;image)
It will balance no Dumdum added
Might still be nose heavy y1
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Mamma mia, que belíssimo!!!
Marcus
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All that's left is details. So it all about tinkering from here. I think I might try Tommy Luper's chalk tricks on this plane. I got a pleasant surprise this morning its gassing off and it only weighs 55.10 with everything. I did not make my target weight but I think I will come in around 57-58. There is nothing heavy left to put on except the clear.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=138197;image)
It will balance no Dumdum added
Might still be nose heavy y1
Bob,
What are you shooting for as far as CG placement?
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Bob,
What are you shooting for as far as CG placement?
Wont know until I fly it but it should be around 2 inches
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Thought you might do the gear legs in gold to mimic the gold float struts on the original?
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It ain't done yet
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a little farther
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=138234;image)
Picture from yesterday.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=138236;image)
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Mighty purty.
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It ain't done yet
Yep, I know, just commenting. ;D
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All the paint is on it. All that's left is ink and clear. I hope January yields a good day to fly. I will need to test fly this before starting my next one to see if any changes are needed. Even with all the experience I have there is always some UN know factors that might creep up and bite me.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=138246;image)
This is what a Idea and a box of wood can give you. I started with a picture off the internet.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=138248;image)
Coat of arms
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=138250;image)
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Here is the coat of arms for this year. I know peter sent one but the resolution was not high enough. So I found one that was 2000 + here is a cropped version.
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All the paint is on it. All that's left is ink and clear.
Looks great Sparky, with all the ink and (hopefully) a little weathering it should really look awesome. No offense, but I'm gonna toss in my usual two cents here...
Even though it's not a "proper" scale detail for this airplane, I liked the look of your AMA number in white on the vertical fin like what's shown in the profile artwork in the first picture in your original MC72 post in the Building section. I see you already have your number on the wing in black though so that makes it a little tougher...maybe still add it in black or silver on the fin? Either way, I just thought it fit well and looked good on the fin...
One thing I think you really should add is the MC72 and whatever else it says with it in white just below the stab L/E in that same picture. It's small, but it would be a nice extra touch toward a scale look.
In the end it's gonna look great whichever way you go. I just remember your T-bolt with all the extra detail, this stuff can take a model to a whole 'nuther level. I'm hoping that you don't hold back on the small details on this one, take it to the top. y1
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Robert,
What is actually the radiator details in the wing? Can't see it well from the photos, it looks like it still has the masking tapes on... How about a close-up picture?
But it's reallu nice. Especially the fuselage!
Lauri
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Robert,
What is actually the radiator details in the wing? Can't see it well from the photos, it looks like it still has the masking tapes on... How about a close-up picture?
But it's reallu nice. Especially the fuselage!
Lauri
Its a subtle two tone gold lines.
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Its a subtle two tone gold lines.
What about the tape bump between subtles. Did you want the edge?
Charles
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All the paint is on it. All that's left is ink and clear. I hope January yields a good day to fly. I will need to test fly this before starting my next one to see if any changes are needed. Even with all the experience I have there is always some UN know factors that might creep up and bite me.
This is what a Idea and a box of wood can give you. I started with a picture off the internet.
The detail lines and clear should make all the difference!
Shoot a pic of the plane in natural light when your done, the colors are washed out a little on our end. (your shop lighting)
How's the balance?
Did you have to add any ballast?
Beautiful work!
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The detail lines and clear should make all the difference!
Shoot a pic of the plane in natural light when your done, the colors are washed out a little on our end. (your shop lighting)
How's the balance?
Did you have to add any ballast?
Beautiful work!
No Dumdum added to balance
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details
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=138330;image)
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Robert,
Looks great!
So you sprayed your clear with the control surfaces in place?
Charles
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No they are not glued on. Everything is sprayed separately.
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All that's left is ink and clear
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=138354;image)
If you click on the thumbnail picture it will open into a high res image.
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Resized
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I was wondering how you did the exhaust ports. Last I recalled, it was a black strip down the side. It looks really good, however you did it!
Curious how come your resized picture became a .png and thus a larger file size than needed? I believe .jpg is the most efficient photo file type, in terms of computer space needed. After saving your .jpg to my confuser, I used IrfanView to resize to 800 pixels wide and saved at 80% compression...easy peasy. Tryin' to save you $ a few kb's at a time. H^^ Steve
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I was wondering how you did the exhaust ports. Last I recalled, it was a black strip down the side. It looks really good, however you did it!
Curious how come your resized picture became a .png and thus a larger file size than needed? I believe .jpg is the most efficient photo file type, in terms of computer space needed. After saving your .jpg to my confuser, I used IrfanView to resize to 800 pixels wide and saved at 80% compression...easy peasy. Tryin' to save you $ a few kb's at a time. H^^ Steve
I had a stencil cut and airbrushed the pipes in. As far as the photo goes, my card reader died on my PC so I used my laptop and I only have gimp on it and I don't know how to use it yet.
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Looks great. y1
What's the logo below the cockpit?
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Looks great. y1
What's the logo below the cockpit?
I don't know I just put it there because it is on some of them.
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Can't tell what the logo actually is though.
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Looks like a fasces, symbol of the Fascists, a disagreeable sort who were big in Italy at the time.
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You wouldnt want to step on one , would you . LL~ %^@ VD~
(http://images1.fotoalbum.virgilio.it/v/www1-1/200/200197/420951/AraldicaRAback-vi.jpg)
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By Golly . a REAL one . (http://www.me-109.com/DSC09912.jpg)
Theyre ' Stormo ' markings . ! ( Squadron , to you & me . ) so is of the squadron of our intrepid aviator , presumeably . http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/aircraft-markings-camouflage/italian-aircraft-camouflage-markings-9335-2.html
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(http://www.sebart.it/img-50e/Macchi%20MC-72/MC-72-00.jpg)
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I'm impressed, kudos!!
Charles
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I'm impressed, kudos!!
Charles
That last picture is not mine Charles. This one is mine.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=138356;image)
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That last picture is not mine Charles. This one is mine.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=138356;image)
Yes Robert, I know that. n~
Still would like to see the nose with the spinner off.
You can tell a great deal from a photo.
BTW. Clever how you masked the green on the rudder. Small details is what makes a model come alive.
They all look good from 25', It's up close that matters.
Robert, attaching your control surfaces after everything is painted, could you please run your method by again?
Thanks,
Charles
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Yes Robert, I know that. n~
Still would like to see the nose with the spinner off.
You can tell a great deal from a photo.
BTW. Clever how you masked the green on the rudder. Small details is what makes a model come alive.
They all look good from 25', It's up close that matters.
Robert, attaching your control surfaces after everything is painted, could you please run your method by again?
Thanks,
Charles
The control surface's just slide on and off they are no glued on. No magic there. Look back in the build thread I am sure its there with the spinner off.
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1st coat of clear
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1st coat of clear
Huh? What about the ink, and weathering/exhaust etc...?
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Looks like a fasces, symbol of the Fascists, a disagreeable sort who were big in Italy at the time.
Thanks Howard and Matt, interesting stuff. H^^
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Theyre ' Stormo ' markings . ! ( Squadron , to you & me . )
Nope, Fascist period Italian Royal Air Force (Regia Aeronautica Italiana) national insignia.
They used a less elaborate one on the wings.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Regia_Aeronautica
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Damn Faschists . H^^
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33418.0;attach=138384;image)
thats bigger .
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How on earth do you keep from poking holes in OO silkspan? Back when I used SGM, I had a hole every time out.
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more sanding
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continued
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Coming together really well Sparky, the "floats" look great too. Keep on truckin', don't hold back on the final detailing...
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I take it Sparky is not as ham fisted as some of us. Plane is looking great.
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Superb finish, Sparky...I expected nothing less. (but, I remember the Spit!)
Nitrate or Butyrate dope? Read it thru twice, couldn't find it.
I added the first 3 numerals of your AMA#, and got a grand total of 666. Was there a 'deal' made for these beautiful airplanes?