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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Ty Marcucci on April 27, 2013, 12:58:23 PM
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Hi Ty,
Looks like it is turning out good for you. Just what is "modified" about it? :)!
Bill
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Hi Bill. It is modfifed in the under part of the fuselage because it does not have a pipe, so the fuse is not as tall as the normal GEO XL. The plans have been drawn on by the original kit owner. After I saw Lewis Ranken fly his Geo, I just had to have one. Now I do. LL~
Hi Ty,
Aaron's Geo XL was also modified. Billy told him to try the Geo Bolt wing in the plane. We did and left the LE in the same place per Billy's instructions. This extended the hingeline to hingeline by a couple inches. The Geo Bolt series I wing is a good bit shorter at the root chord. It was a very good flying model until it hit the bank at Brodak's.............
Bill
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So now I have let a few secrets out my guess is everyones plane will have a super finish on it. looks good.
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Lookingt good Ty
Marcus
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This stuff?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_filler-primer-gray-12-oz-aerosol-duplicolor_7140770-p
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Hi Randy. I used the NAPA brand part number DC 540. I don't know if the one shown is the same. H^^
Its not the same. So use DC540 only. I have had super bad luck with duplicolor. I have tried a lot of stuff and DC 540 is the only stuff that gives perfect results in any weather conditions and rate of application that works everytime.
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http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=DC_DC540_0006445873#largeProductImageWrapper
Hey guys, isn't this stuff Dupli Color also ?
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I've used Duplicolor before without issue. It was lacquer primer and worked pretty well. But I haven't seen the same stuff in quite awhile so I've gone back to making my own.
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http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=DC_DC540_0006445873#largeProductImageWrapper
Hey guys, isn't this stuff Dupli Color also ?
Dupli-color is not the same as Duplicolor DC 540 is the best primer I have ever used for our purposes.
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Looks great Ty! Are you going to make it to Texarkana next weekend?
Jason
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Ty it looks like you have a low spot on the outboard wing. NAPA also sell Lacquer spot putty you can float in there and re-prime. Its light grey too so it matches. Part # 6390 Use both of these products sparingly. Spray them on and sand 90% off. Dust coat grey as a base.
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Ty it looks like you have a low spot on the outboard wing. NAPA also sell Lacquer spot putty you can float in there and re-prime. Its light grey too so it matches. Part # 6390 Use both of these products sparingly. Spray them on and sand 90% off. Dust coat grey as a base.
Robert,
Why the #6390?
NAPA offers other less expensive putty in smaller tubes.
Charles
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Robert,
Why the #6390?
NAPA offers other less expensive putty in smaller tubes.
Charles
They might but 6390 is what I can absolutely attest to. If you talk to them and they can assure you they have the same stuff in a smaller tube try it.
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Looking good Ty, keep on keep'in on! Going for a Werwage paint scheme or did you come up with something you like better?
EricV
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Looks good Ty. Also looks like I'll be trying some DC540 on the next project. y1
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Anyone use NAPA PRIMER over Nitrate and under Dupont Base Coat/ Clear Coat products ? Results ?
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Anyone use NAPA PRIMER over Nitrate and under Dupont Base Coat/ Clear Coat products ? Results ?
Hi Frank,
Yes I used it over nitrate and under Dupont Basecoat/Clearcoat on my Argus several years ago. Still no problems even when I had to do crash repair. This was several years ago so I do not know if the present day Dupont materials are exactly the same as the Chromabase/Chromaclear I used or not.
Almost all my models have a non-tautening nitrate base and automotive urethane clear top coats.
BIG Bear
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Thanks, Bill.
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My local NAPA doesn't carry DC-540 ''
I have used Duplicolour primer, but only on model rockets. Been chicken to use it on planes so I have stuck with zinc stearate primer/filler on stunt jobs.
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Steve;
Which NAPA did you visit? I was able to purchase DC540 at the Williamsburg NAPA on Rt-143 heading toward Newport News (adjacent to the Fastenal). Had to ask for it at the counter. (granted, that was almost a year ago now IIRC)
r/
Dave
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Not to worry Steve. The ingrediants on the can are zinc stearate and talcum plus thinner/carrier, so you are just as good if not better.
Hi Ty,
You and I know it, but some don't: The Duplicolor Primer we use (DC 540) is a lacquer based primer meant to be used on an automobile under any top coat. Plus "almost" all lacquers are pretty much compatible to each other as far as our use goes. But then, we are not "Top 20" so we really don't know what is going on........................ My Geo Juno (last "PAMPA" model I built) did get a 2nd at Flushing Meadows in the concours in '97 when Aaron, and I, went up there, though. His Spitfire was the NATS concours winner, IIRC, that year.
BIG Bear
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The DC540 that I have has directions that state to recoat within 2hrs or wait 5 days. That sure delays the finishing if you want to sand it. My question is; Is it better to put the color coat within 2hrs or to wait 5 days? I ask this as I've had problems (with other paints) with wrinkles even after waiting the prescribed time.
Thanks,
Rick
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The DC540 that I have has directions that state to recoat within 2hrs or wait 5 days. That sure delays the finishing if you want to sand it. My question is; Is it better to put the color coat within 2hrs or to wait 5 days? I ask this as I've had problems (with other paints) with wrinkles even after waiting the prescribed time.
Thanks,
Rick
Dope and lacquer type products do not have any prescribed wait times. I'm thinking that maybe the instruction label on the DC540 might be a generic label for the whole DupliColor product line, and those recoating restrictions are applicable to the topcoats and not necessarily the primer. It would drive me crazy if I had to rush the topcoat within 2 hours or wait 5 days. That's why I will stay with dope.
Sparky uses the DC540. If you have followed any of his recent build threads, I don't think he's waiting 5 days for anything.
If you had problems even when you did wait the 5 days, I have to think it was related to something other than the recoat time, maybe contamination.
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Allen,
I looked at the can, and I think you're right about the "generic" label. The DC540 label is a small applied "sticker" to the generic label. Just to be sure, I primed a scrap piece of wood with the DC540, and I'll put another coat on tomorrow.
Thanks,
Rick
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Looks good Ty. I noticed you budgeted a generous 12 ounces for paint... I know in some circles it might be impolite to ask... but did you come under budget or...? Looking forward to a flight report.
EricV
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This is my end result. A borrowed. slightly modified paint scheme.
Hey Ty that looks great. You picked a good paint scheme to copy. Is that a full size GeoXL (700+inches?), if so 53 is super light. Would have been a real killer with 60 power.
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Allen,
I looked at the can, and I think you're right about the "generic" label. The DC540 label is a small applied "sticker" to the generic label. Just to be sure, I primed a scrap piece of wood with the DC540, and I'll put another coat on tomorrow.
Thanks,
Rick
With a lacquer based primer you don't have to wait till tomorrow. You can sand it 15~20 min and recoat right after the sanding. I do it all the time with either dope type primers or the aerosol lacquer primers. On a decent weather day you can do 3 maybe 4 coats of primer sanding between each coat.
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Mighty pretty, Ty. You borrowed well.
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Cool Ty!
I like it.
Marcus
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Nice! That paint scheme looks right at home on that air frame!
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With a lacquer based primer you don't have to wait till tomorrow. You can sand it 15~20 min and recoat right after the sanding. I do it all the time with either dope type primers or the aerosol lacquer primers. On a decent weather day you can do 3 maybe 4 coats of primer sanding between each coat.
Allen,
while it seems that the primer is dry, I suggest it only appears to be,, stacking coats like this, unless they are very light thin coats, will lead to solvent trapping and eventually to shrinkage in your finish, all those little things you filled with primer will come back to haunt you, it might be a week, it might be a month, it might even take a year, but they will,,
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Hi Allan. I have just measured it and it comes out to 14" root, 10 " tip x 55.25 WS= 663 sq inches @53 oz it equals ll.36 oz per sq foot. Not too heavy, but I will soon see. I am not sure of the actual wing area of a full size Geo XL, but the only difference between mine and the full size plans is a slightly modified fuselage due to no pipe tunnel. H^^
Hi Ty,
You have an approximately 95% (that's how ?? described it) Geo XL. Bill's had a few more inches of WS (about 60") and more area. The original Geo XL used an almost stock USA-1 wing. 53oz is what Billy's big one weighed. He had three.
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
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Hi Bill. I think the Geo XL has a slightly thicker wing than the USA-1 wing. It seems thicker. I do like the USA-1 appearance, but on the bench is my newest, a Genesis MK III with the lost foam wing I got from Bob Hunt. No more excuses, I am building it now. Weather is crazy, freeze Saturday, sweat Sunday freeze Monday. H^^.
Hi Ty,
I have a set of foam cores for The Genesis Mk III. PA .51 with a can muffler. Other choice was a Randy ST .51.
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
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Hey Ty,
I think you need a thin (1/4") black line on the wing in front of the grey. That will set if off real nice. IMHO. y1
Great looking ship, hope it flies well too.
Jerry