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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Larry Renger on August 28, 2014, 09:19:03 AM
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Dang, I thought I invented this technique, but John Miller used it on his twin Pathfinder in 2010! I saw it in the Flying models ( :'( sniff! ) article from that year. It is a fantastically good way to finish a model anyway.
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Dang, I thought I invented this technique, but John Miller used it on his twin Pathfinder in 2010! I saw it in the Flying models ( :'( sniff! ) article from that year. It is a fantastically good way to finish a model anyway.
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It's older than that Larry. When Monokote was introduced in 1965 it was the sticky stuff that later became trim Monokote. The instructions stated to cover the model with silkspan and then put the film over it. I can attest to the fact that I did do that so it is a 49 years old idea. I also did it on my Edge 540 do put the Monokote on in separate pieces. Good ideas seem to recycle themselves regularly
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I routinely did silkspan under monocoat on slow Rat wings. I am now trying putting the clear Corehouse film on first, then the tissue on top. I really like it.
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Guys,
When you put the silkspan on how many coats of dope to you apply to the silkspan before putting on the monokote? Do or have you put on a coat of something like Balsarite for film on as a last coat? Do you do this on the fuse and other surfaces or just the wing? Lastly, any idea what the weight is?
Best, DennisT
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I would paint the silkspan with a little Titebond in water. It would harden up the silkspan and also, with heat, stick to the monocoat. Made a very rigid and strong covering. I only did this on wings.
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Guys,
When you put the silkspan on how many coats of dope to you apply to the silkspan before putting on the monokote? Do or have you put on a coat of something like Balsarite for film on as a last coat? Do you do this on the fuse and other surfaces or just the wing? Lastly, any idea what the weight is?
Best, DennisT
Don,
I put nothing on over the open areas. even the crap that they sell as Monokote today will stick well to what passes as silkspan today. I cannot vouch that it would stick if doped as I've never done it. You don't need to have the iron at 350 to get the job done either.
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My latest job has lightweight Polyspan with "Microlite" park flyer weight film over it for a beautiful transparent finish. I estimate 1.25 oz. per square yard. I'll shoot a photo and post it. Sadly the lightweight Polyspan is hard to find, as it isn't very good by itself. But with film applied....... ;D
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BTW, there is only Balsarite around the edges to attach the Polyspan. NO DOPE! Also note the Polyspan hinges.
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Guys,
When you put the silkspan on how many coats of dope to you apply to the silkspan before putting on the monokote? Do or have you put on a coat of something like Balsarite for film on as a last coat? Do you do this on the fuse and other surfaces or just the wing? Lastly, any idea what the weight is?
Best, DennisT
Hi Dennis,
Several years ago, I built a Ringmaster and covered it in silk span. This was when you could get good silk span from SIG. I doped the airframe with three coats of dope and applied the silk span wet and used thinner around the edges to adhere it to the frame. I am talking the wing only here . When it dried I put three coats of nitrate dope thinned 50/50. The silk span at this point wAs really tight. I then ironed Oracover (Ultrakote) over the silk span and it stuck just fine. Hope this helped.
BB
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With polyspan, it will get tight as can be with heating and no dope. Ironing the film over it only tightens it more. YOU DON'T NEED THE WEIGHT OF DOPE! That is the whole point of this technique. A high gloss, lightweight, ultra tough finish. What elsese could you want?
I bet that if you rubbed out and waxed a film finish, it could pass as painted. >:D
You want to suffer? Silkspan, dope, filler, silver undercoat, primer, color, top clear and rub like heck. Or spend your time practicing FLYING! Has any 20 point plane ever won the Nationals? Top 5, yes, but won?
You have to define your priorities. For anyone below the top 5 at the Nats, a film finish is ulikely to be the decider.
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YOU DON'T NEED THE WEIGHT OF DOPE! That is the whole point of this technique. A high gloss, lightweight, ultra tough finish. What elsese could you want?
I would want a material that "holds up."
I know of no iron on material that will stand up for the duration?
Eventually, the material, falls apart.
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Dennis in lieu of what Larry posted, I should have told you that my original intention was to paint the Ringmaster after applying and doping the Silkspan. At the last minute I decided I wanted to do a color scheme with the plastic film and that is when I ironed it on. The point I was trying to make if you DO dope the tissue whether it be Silkspan or Polyspan, the plastic film will stick to it. I have no idea how much additional weight the dope added but the plane flew very well with an OS. LA 25 on it. Mr. Renger is right, there is no need to dope the Polyspan before you iron on the covering.
BB
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Perhaps (though, my experience refutes that) durability is an issue for a single surface material, but not for a properly applied composite. My Baby Super Clown is wrinkle free after a couple of years. Try the technique on a junker, let it age, then criticise! If you ain't tried it, you have no valid standing. Others have used the technique, as noted, and say it is durable.
I really get anoyed at those who post "well I don't really know, but......" HB~>
Incidentally, iron on films are NOT a shrink film, but a stretch-on material! Applied correctly they look tight before you ever touch them with a heat gun. Get Faye Stilley's books and learn how to do it right. I did a Monokote demo for our club. One wing was pre-covered and a member was very impressed. I said "I haven't shrunk it yet!" That's how the job should look if you want it right! y1
Learn how to do it right before saying it is no good.
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Perhaps (though, my experience refutes that) durability is an issue for a single surface material, but not for a properly applied composite. My Baby Super Clown is wrinkle free after a couple of years. Try the technique on a junker, let it age, then criticise! If you ain't tried it, you have no valid standing. Others have used the technique, as noted, and say it is durable.
I really get anoyed at those who post "well I don't really know, but......" HB~>
Incidentally, iron on films are NOT a shrink film, but a stretch-on material! Applied correctly they look tight before you ever touch them with a heat gun. Get Faye Stilley's books and learn how to do it right. I did a Monokote demo for our club. One wing was pre-covered and a member was very impressed. I said "I haven't shrunk it yet!" That's how the job should look if you want it right! y1
Learn how to do it right before saying it is no good.
Larry,
I have a feeling your responce is targeted at me? is it? n~
If so, could you please tell me where I said, "well I don't really know, but......"
I can't find any Post where that was said by anybody. Did I miss it?