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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Matt Brown on September 17, 2018, 02:52:08 PM
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I’m thinking of doing my first dope finish since the ‘70s. I got some of the heavy plyspan from Sig in orange tint. My intent is to cover the entire plane in this and just use clear dope for a semi-transparent finish. I’ll probably use some black or white dope for trim colors.
I was thinking about the usual spackling being white and showing through. Any other fillers not going to show through? FWIW the plane is a Primary Force.
Thanks, Matt
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Zinc stearate. Get it from Randy Smith.
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Zinc stearate. Get it from Randy Smith.
Is this a premixed filler? Zinc stearate is normally a white powder.
Matt
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Used to be that there were several tan balsa fillers on the market along with their white counterparts. If you can't find any, you could experiment with white filler and drops of food coloring. Remember, the idea is that it disappears under the orange tissue, so check your results by laying the tissue over your test samples.
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Is this a premixed filler? Zinc stearate is normally a white powder.
Matt
I’ve mixed it with dope. It gets pretty transparent as I recall.
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I've mixed very fine balsa dust with dope and used that for filler of stuff like dents or gaps. Doesn't really show up under a transparent finish.
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I've mixed very fine balsa dust with mixed with dope and used that for filler of stuff like dents or gaps. Doesn't really show up under a transparent finish.
I know where there’s a stash of balsa dust ;D
Matt
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I know where there’s a stash of balsa dust ;D
Matt
And now I have this image in my head of shady looking character in a trench coat, calling from an alley...."Pssy. Hey, buddy! I got balsa dust here. 4# density, my man! Only the best."
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I've mixed very fine balsa dust with mixed with dope and used that for filler of stuff like dents or gaps. Doesn't really show up under a transparent finish.
Yes! We used to do that 50+ years ago and it does work well.
Good luck, Jerry
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I know where there’s a stash of balsa dust ;D
Matt
I keep a jar of it -- but I mix it with Ambroid, not dope. I'll have to try it with dope next time.
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Matt,
I've used this putty from Elmer's for years. I love it. I've covered it with everything under the sun except dope. But it seems to be compatible with everything, so I can't see why it wouldn't work under dope. I showed both types available to show the one NOT to use. Use the red striped, indoor only. Very easy to sand and color matches balsa perfectly. The outdoor stuff dries too hard for balsa use. You can get it anywhere.
Paul
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Matt,
I've used this putty from Elmer's for years. I love it. I've covered it with everything under the sun except dope. But it seems to be compatible with everything, so I can't see why it wouldn't work under dope. I showed both types available to show the one NOT to use. Use the red striped, indoor only. Very easy to sand and color matches balsa perfectly. The outdoor stuff dries too hard for balsa use. You can get it anywhere.
Paul
I searched Lowe’s and Menards local stores but not finding the indoor stuff. They both listed a tub of indoor/outdoor filler in that brand. I’ll try a few other stores tomorrow.
Matt
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Hi Matt,
Get in contact with Pete Peterson, he does Awesome clear finishes and I'm sure he could help you out with some of his suggestions.
Later,
Mikey
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I'm surprised at Mr. Wood's comment that the Elmer's Interior/Exterior wood filler "dries too hard for balsa." It has been my preferred filler for years. Better than the "hobby fillers" that used to be available. I recently used up most of a tube and bought some "natural" colored Elmer's--but I did not notice it is the red label interior stuff Paul recommends--so I will get to compare them now. I assumed that they would be the same. If I don't like it, I would definitely go back and get more Interior/Exterior filler.
Here in SoCal, it is my understanding that Elmer's filler is sold exclusively thru Ace Hardware. That may differ in other locations.
If all you have is white water-based filler, I have had some luck with a few drops of coffee as a colorant. I suppose tea would work as well. I wouldn't know where to start with food coloring. The stuff is way potent. I'd probably end up with a plane that looked like a Christmas cookie.
Dave
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I picked up a tube of the Dap interior filler and tried it on a couple spots. Sands great, very lightweight and a pretty close match to balsa. As long as it doesn’t react badly to dope, it’s a winner in my book.
Matt
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If you are talking about filler for fillets, Pete uses white micro balloons with epoxy. For filling the weave in Poy Span he uses zinc stearate in clear dope. The question is a little ambiguous leading to many different answers.
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If you are talking about filler for fillets, Pete uses white micro balloons with epoxy. For filling the weave in Poy Span he uses zinc stearate in clear dope. The question is a little ambiguous leading to many different answers.
My initial post was about filler for dents, dings and mismatches on the structure. I was concerned about fillers showing through the semi-transparent finish I want to attempt.
Matt
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I consult Pete Peterson often and know him well. He tries real hard not to put any extra dings while building but still has a few. He, to my knowledge doesn't use any putt of any kind. Water and heat will take out dings, pretty deep dents and even swell up broken wood fibers so they can be repaired. Patience is required. Any that are left can be filled in with clear dope and zinc stearate. Concentrate on the bad spots with the dope and zinc stearate and will be surprised how fast they fill in.
Here is my Chizler done with House of Kolor Kandy Concentrate mixed with Randolph clear dope.