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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Avaiojet on May 20, 2012, 09:59:28 AM
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OK, we know my feelings about dope.
Negative to say the least because of the limited brushing characteristics of which dope has.
Should say that dope should be applied, not brushed.
Anyway, for those that find brushing dope taxing, are you now spraying it on?
My guess is there's plenty of modelers who spray dope and find this application method more user friendly.
Correct?
Charles
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I have yet to use a paint product that didn't work out much better sprayed than painted.
Folks keep telling me that you can do a good job with brushed-on dope with enough patience. Apparently I lack patience.
When I've had the chance to spray the stuff in the past, everything worked out much better.
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seems like there were other replies to this thread,, did they disapear?
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I brush on several coats on the raw balsa (sanding between coats) before applying silkspan or silk (using a brush) but from that point on I only spray.
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I brush dope up to the point where covering in just about filled (3-4 heavy coats) and then switch over to spraying rest of finish.
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I brush dope up to the point where covering in just about filled (3-4 heavy coats) and then switch over to spraying rest of finish.
I should have mentioned that my interest in spraying was for clear dope only. Actually in preperation before applying silk.
Mark, there's a similar Thread, probably you think something was removed?
Charles
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Charles, if you are wanting to spray the dope prior to applying silk,, plan on puttin on a LOT more than the nominally suggested three coats. Three coats prior to silk application is almost always brushed, and not thinned,, perhaps this is why your silk is not sticking, there is not enough dope under the silk to adhere
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I should have mentioned that my interest in spraying was for clear dope only. Actually in preperation before applying silk.
Egad. If it's an open framework you'll waste dope because most of your spray will miss the wood and because of overspray, you'll needlessly smell up the place, and as Mark said you'll need a lot more coats because you can lay it on thicker when it's brushed.
Brushed-on dope works just fine for just about everything up until the filler coats and the color coats -- and there's plenty of people on this forum who would say that it works fine on the filler coats, too. In fact, full scale practice has you brushing the dope on for the first coats, too -- so it's not just a home workshop peculiarity.
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I posted here yesterday and the post is gone. That's interesting.
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Guys!
Tim, Mark, Randy, Gene, Ty, and Allan,
Gotta thank all of you for the advice.
Especially those that have repeatedly offered advice in other Threads I started about the same subject.
This dope thing I found extremely difficult in the beginning. Had to remove silk once from the elevator and I got so frustrated I almost tossed the thing. I never mentioned this, but I was going to remake it solid, I do have extra wood, but I didn't and your advice plus your interest got me through this.
The learning process and abilities. Just because someone has abilities in one area doesn't mean they can easily carry them over to others, especially when one has no relationship to the other.
Possibly my age, a layoff from building, nervousness, not asking for advice in the beginning, I don't know why I couldn't manage my first attempt at brushing dope and silking?
Well and finally, I did get the elevator silked on all sides. I used four pieces to make the task easier. Turns out, it was easy after all. Advice helps, encouragement helps, and then you just go do it.
I feel better now that I have the elevator behind me. I'll tackle the stab next. Four small areas that will give me a bit more experience before I cover the wings. Will I be nervous covering the wings? Probably. n~
Here's the results of your help and my efforts.
Thanks again,
Charles