It will probably work, but can you afford the weight? Koverall itself is heavy, and it takes a bunch of dope to fill the weave.

           David, I'm not sure what type of paint job your trying to achieve whether its appearance or weight saving. I can say I've used Nelson water based paints with great success over Koverall. Nelson paint can be directly applied over the Koverall with NO dope. It will not go through the weave and will be totally fuel proof unlike any other paint you've probably used. Nelson makes a crosslinker which I think enhances the surface tension and doesn't allow the paint to flow through the weave. This is just my theory but it also enables the use of nitro up to 40%. I've tested the nitro theory many of times. Eventually, the paint did fail but it took a long time. Spilling 35% directly on a dope finish is like pouring thinner directly on it. I've used Koverall quite a bit for several reasons. I like the cost and the fact I can put a paint finish on an airframe and then treat it like Monokote if there is a warp. The weight is a factor but its usally offset by the durability factor. I have a Lil Satan with Koverall applied and it flies terrific and doesn't seem to be suffering any weight penalties. In the event you use Nelson paints directly over Koverall, be aware of a few things. You will see every blemish and weave throughout the wing. It doesn't fill the weave so cleanup is a must as the dirt if not cleaned off will become trapped within the weave. I never tried it but I think the real trick to cutting Koverall is to use pinking shears. I say this because any frays or slight wrinkles that can be sanded off of a dope frame are there to stay if you go with the no dope method. If you use the dope method nitrate is the only choice as Nelson doesn't adhere to butyrate and therefore will shed off eventually if applied. Nelson does make a clear which when applied over their colors greatly enhances the shine and does have some filling capabilites which would somewhat fill most imperfections and possibly some of the weave. I think both products are a terrific match together. I used the Sig stix it to install my Koverall initially. I later switched to doping the airframe with nitrate then applying like silspan which I liked better but does take more time. When applying starting with the bottom first, it was a must to completely dope the fabric where the top layers were going to wrap over or it just wouldn't adhere. I typically don't have this problem with silkspan I guess due to the dope thoroughly saturating completely through. Ken

Koverall is polyester fabric, as I recall. Dunno that it will accept dye, but poly clothes do come in various colors, so I'd expect that it would. There is an alternative, and that is using a small percentage of pigmented dope in your clear dope.

The result looks exactly like dyed silkspan or silk or whatever the covering is.  I've inspected this Barnstormer by Mike Haverly very closely, and there just isn't any way to tell which it is. PLUS, it doesn't fade like most dyes.
Very slightly heavier than dye, but better in most ways, IMO.  Steve

I have never done silk, is there a "Silk & Dope for Dummies" instructions somewhere?  I tried the Koverall on the horizontal stab and due to the light construction technique the thing ended up looking like a pretzel when the fabric was shrunk. I am rebuilding the stab now.