What is good to use, specifically for rubbing out blushing on either dope, or even LustreKote clear?
Sandpaper.. the old way.. read on... there might be an "easier softer way" to do this..
The dreaded blushing is caused by moisture being trapped under the coat of paint or clear.. what I do is think back to when it first appeared and lightly sand, clean the surface with rubbing alcohol if you are cheap like me or Prepsol.. plain water will clean the surface too if you just want to wipe off the sanding..
Rules for painting... this is here in the Northwest... paint when temps are 70-88... I paint outdoors. No painting in direct sunlight... a little is OK... indoors warm the room up to 68-72... gas heat has moisture in it.. so I keep a window open
Locally I can get hourly humidity reports. When it drops to 50-70 and the air temps are around say 72-80.. and this happens from about 12am to 4 pm... that is my window of painting... indoors I have more flexibility. especially after the house warms up from the outside temperature..
One of the reasons I have had blushing is trying to put too much paint on too soon... so at best when using dope... only 2 coats a day MAX... one early and one late at the temp/humidity range.. the other reason is failing to let the surface temp of your model "acclimatize".. in other words the air is warm and the surface is cold.. also putting the coats on too heavy with a spray gun .. it will be "cool" and the surface may be hot... using retarder helps with this problem.. I also use a little plasticizer, a Dave Brown product.
here are some links ...
Here is a great link for general ideas even though it is a motorcycle the basic ideas apply to any lacquer based paints..
http://www.chuckhawks.com/harley_paintin.htmAcu-Rite Digital Humidity Monitor ...
http://www.natlallergy.com/product.asp?pn=1526&bhcd2=1247593867I bet there are others on the market..
"The ideal temperature for spraying is about 70°F. Special thinners and reducers can speed up or retard drying time; use slower thinners in hotter temperatures, faster thinners in colder temperatures. Humidity is also a factor, especially with lacquer. High humidity (moisture) in the air supply can be trapped in rapidly drying paint, causing a "blushing" surface that appears chalky or dull. Spray in the lowest possible humidity."http://www.scottgrundfor.com/ideas/paint3.htmlHere's another product that appears to have promise.. though I haven't tried it.. if this stuff works as advertised it is a God Send for sure.. here is one guys thoughts after using it.. "This stuff is magic in a can. It removes the blush immediately. You just fog it on and blush is gone. Also used to help blend in repair areas. Make sure you allow enough time for the surface to dry. It will remain wet longer than an application of clear."
This is mainly a wood worker product but I suspect it may be something others might have tried..
I doubt it will work on Lustercote.. Blush Eraser,
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17653&cookietest=1Jim