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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Motorman on July 06, 2023, 08:32:21 AM

Title: Doping 4-6 Lb balsa
Post by: Motorman on July 06, 2023, 08:32:21 AM
I use Sig Nitrate thinned 50/50 for the first coats for good adhesion then added some filler for 2 coats but after that it seems like it takes allot of dope before it stops soaking in. What's the point of using soft wood if you just have to load it with paint. Is there a way to avoid this? I doped on some .2oz carbon tissue no sizing but all the coats after that seemed to soak right through. So many coats but it never covered the carbon to the point I felt I could sand it level. This light weight wood is like a sponge, what's the solution?

Thanks,
MM
Title: Re: Doping 4-6 Lb balsa
Post by: john e. holliday on July 06, 2023, 10:54:17 AM
My self I would cover with clear mylar from Corehouse or the bay.  Then put the silk span on.  Saves a lot of dope and makes it almost bullet proof. D>K
Title: Re: Doping 4-6 Lb balsa
Post by: Tim Wescott on July 06, 2023, 02:11:50 PM
Have you covered light wood with anything else?  My experience with that stuff leads me to believe that it's the CF veil itself that's soaking up gallons of dope, not the wood underneath.

I'm not sure how you're doing it, but in my very limited experience I get a few coats of dope on the bare wood first, just like I'm going to apply silkspan.  Then I put on the veil.
Title: Re: Doping 4-6 Lb balsa
Post by: Ty Marcucci on July 06, 2023, 05:01:00 PM
You may be applying the dope too thin..  60/40 or 70/30, dope to thinner.  That tends to stay on the surface and not dissolve the under coats, which may be happening.  H^^ Let each coat dry, then sand smooth and apply the next coat.. Yes it take work to do it right... D>K

By the third coat of dope you may want to apply silk span or Japanese tissue, then apply dope over that, which should take only two or three light coats.