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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Adam micheal Collver on September 17, 2016, 04:29:15 PM
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If im monokoting the wing can i put on colour dope for trim. If so do i need to spray clear over it. Also can i get away with 4 coats of clear then colour then five or so coats on top
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If im monokoting the wing can i put on colour dope for trim. If so do i need to spray clear over it. Also can i get away with 4 coats of clear then colour then five or so coats on top
I've never done it, so this is my best guess:
It shouldn't hurt the Monokote, because I've gotten plenty of dope oversprayed onto it and easily cleaned it off later with acetone. I think you might want to mask it and then use some fine sandpaper to scuff the areas to be painted. I'd guess clear on top is optional for appearence. Clear underneath might be good insurance so if you botch the color, maybe you can sand it off and repaint. Maybe someone has actually done this and knows for sure.
Get a test patch out and try it. It might peel off if you try to shrink the Monokote after the painting is done. You know how the 'Kote likes to stretch and loosen in the sun. So that should be part of your testing. I'd put it through hell during the testing, just like a day in the hot sun at the field, then re-tightening later back in the shop.
Let us know, I'm curious now.
Rusty
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MonoKote like SLC needs scuffing in the painted areas. But, I usually don't over lap the dope onto the Monokote that much. For trim and graphics I get out the old Ex-acto and what ever color Monokote I want to use. Clean surface real good with Windex or acetone. Lay the trim or graphic in place and just enough heat in the iron so that you can hold it in the palm of your hand. Of course the base Monokote needs to be already shrunk. Also I don't think the hot air gun shrinks the MonoKote enough.
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If im monokoting the wing can i put on colour dope for trim. If so do i need to spray clear over it. Also can i get away with 4 coats of clear then colour then five or so coats on top
I would not recommend putting dope over Monokote as the dope will shrink with age and will delaminate from the substrate (Monokote.) When I was into R/C Pattern I used to put two-part automotive polyurethane over Monokote by cleaning the surface of the Monokote with a paint cleaning solvent (Sikkens M-600), scuff it with 3M Scotch Brite (red pad), and paint it. I found out with experience that I could go back and tighten the Monokote with a Monokote iron and it did not disturb the polyurethane at all. When the paint/Monokote was hot during & just after ironing the paint color would change but would go right back to normal when cool a few seconds later.
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duplicate post
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Once you've decided to go "iron-on" stay the course and use iron-on trim. You don't need special trim material. Just use scraps of covering.
The body is painted with epoxy or dope. The Ringmaster is only painted in front of the wing. Color was determined by what's in the scrap barrel.
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Rustoleum "Gloss Protective Enamel" works well over 'coat, and you don't need to clear-coat it, but I have no clue about dope. The last time I was paying attention, the recommendation was to scuff it with fine steel wool (you can get much finer grades than the usual home cleaning stuff).
If you go with the Rustoleum use only the Gloss Protective Enamel, and if you're flying slime give it a couple of weeks before you let any fuel or exhaust residue get on it.
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I would not recommend putting dope over Monokote as the dope will shrink with age and will delaminate from the substrate (Monokote.) When I was into R/C Pattern I used to put two-part automotive polyurethane over Monokote by cleaning the surface of the Monokote with a paint cleaning solvent (Sikkens M-600), scuff it with 3M Scotch Brite (red pad), and paint it. I found out with experience that I could go back and tighten the Monokote with a Monokote iron and it did not disturb the polyurethane at all. When the paint/Monokote was hot during & just after ironing the paint color would change but would go right back to normal when cool a few seconds later.
I would agree with this. I tried dope several time but the adhesion was extremely poor no matter what I did for surface prep.
But even air-drying polyurethane did pretty well. I used Chevron brand, but Perfect and the Top Flite air-drying poly worked as well. The only problem I ever had with it was that some colors would come out glossy and others did not.
2-part epoxy does pretty well, too, but the harder/more brittle types tend to peel.
Brett
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Bummer!
There doesn't seem to be any way to get there from here.
PS I hate "I have no knowledge of this, but" ..... VD~
If you don't know, shut up! R%%%%
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Bummer!
There doesn't seem to be any way to get there from here.
PS I hate "I have no knowledge of this, but" ..... VD~
If you don't know, shut up! R%%%%
Maybe you're talking to me since I prefaced my comments with, "my best guess." Five days ago.
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Meanwhile, a month later:
Hmm... Larry,
Somehow I just ran across this again and it stuck with me. I re-read again to make sure it was me you were addressing. And the "no knowledge" is just presumptuous B.S. on your part, I know plenty about 'Kote and paint, and my educated guesses are mostly in agreement with the rest. Besides, there was also purpose to my post, as I said in closing; I'm curious. I want to know how it turns out.
If you want to spend your energy on Hate, go ahead, it's pretty wasteful stuff. But save the "Shut up!" and acting-out like a child for someone else. Nobody is more considerate in posting here than I am.
Adam, I apologize. I was only intending to introduce some points of interest in my first post. If you tried painting the Monokote, I hope it came out like you wanted it.
Rusty