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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Steven Kientz on August 15, 2015, 08:31:07 PM
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I "inherited" a Sig Mustang Stunter that has 2 coats of dope applied. These were applied YEARS ago. Will Minwax work to finish at this point? Airframe is ready for polyspan. Not looking for a 20point finish, just something fuelproof. Would probably use rattlecan Rustoleum for color.
Thanks
Steve
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I don't think Minwax would stick well to dope.
I'd finish it up with dope, or with 'coat.
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I have used rattle can rustoleum over old dope just fine. Wash, then sand to scuff, lightly prime with Rustoleum automotie primer and then color. 2 weeks to cure though.
*You cannot use Balsarite, or probably any other strong solvent paint, on this layer cake as it will cause the rustoleum to dope bond to fail.*
I suspect spray minwax varnish will go over the dope just fine. I have used this over other, not fuel resistant, lacquers but not dope... unless that is what my old wood field box was originally finished with. I had no problems with the field box, whatever it was finished with. The field box was washed repeatedly (it was gross with caked dirt and oil), then well sanded prior to spray varnish.
Phil
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Steven,
There's information in this Thread about Polycrylic over dope, you may want to take a peek?
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php/topic,34556.0.html
Phil had some good input in that Thread.
This subject comes up every now and again, so if you dig a bit, I'll bet you can find more information scattered all over the Forum.
Charles
Edited:
Steven,
I remembered this Thread.
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php/topic,34596.0.html
This model was completed and finished in dope. The fuselage had not yet been covered with silk.
I altered the nose because I changed it from IC to Electric. After the wood work was completed, I used Deft clear, couple of coats and then applied the silk with Polycrylic. All this was brushed over the existing dope, sanded quite well, that was already on the model.
I think Phil does this the same way over solid wood areas? I believe I followed his advice. It was a while ago.
Hope this helps.
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Thanks everyone for the replies. I'm going to try Phil's solution with the Rustoleum. It'll have plenty of time to cure. Hope to paint it before cold weather sets in, it can cure until next spring.
Tim, I thought about 'kote but it has a sheeted solid core foam wing. Thought I might try painting it since all the hard stuff is done.
Charles thanks for looking up the previous threads. Yesterday was a crazy day, Nat'l Model Aviation Day event, early dinner with both sides of the family. Awoke this morning to an auto and plumbing issue.
Previous owner said it will probably be heavy. It is already set up for a Fox 35,might have to look into an engine upgrade.
Thanks Again
Steve
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I've put dope over minwax, but not the other way around.
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I'm finishing up an OTS Ringmaster covered with polyspan. Desire is for a clear finish on the open bay wings and polyspan covered stab/elevator. Filling the weave of the polyspan with water-based polycrylic thinned 2-1 with water and applied with a 3" foam brush. Plan to apply the decals/trim then fuel proof with a couple of light coats of clear butyrate dope. So far I have 5 coats of the thinned polycrylic and it's starting to look pretty nice.
Fuse will probably be color Rustoleum.
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it's a rare thing when I get to comment about finish techniques <=.
I have put Minwax over dope with no issues. The dope was Randolphs, both nitrate and butyrate.
Ken
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I have a bare balsa edge from trimming and sanding.
I'll hit it with a couple of coats of Deft semi-gloss brushing lacquer. Less odor than dope. Then I'll apply another couple of coats of water based polycrlic.
I don't apply water base anything over naked balsa.
Charles