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Author Topic: Dope  (Read 1158 times)

Offline JamieHolford

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Dope
« on: June 29, 2010, 03:01:38 PM »
Did I happen to mention that I hate Dope LOL. Then again this is my first time doing it. Using Sig Black color Dope for hte center section of my Lil Satan. 1st coat is on and it looks horrible lol. But it is fully covered. Will show the finish pics once the dope is done and I finish Moneycoting hte wing :)

Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: Dope
« Reply #1 on: June 29, 2010, 03:11:35 PM »
What sort of prep did you do?  Any sort of paint finish on wood looks bad unless it's all done right.

Normal dope finish takes numerous prep coats before you even think of putting on the final coat, at which point that final coat should look good.
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Offline Randy Powell

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Re: Dope
« Reply #2 on: June 29, 2010, 04:20:32 PM »
Oh, this topic wasn't what I thought it was...   ;D
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Offline JamieHolford

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Re: Dope
« Reply #3 on: June 29, 2010, 04:32:13 PM »
lol

 I brushed it on..........Im only gona do like 3 coats max. I jsut wanna get this plane in the air! My patience is crap and I shouldnt be in this hobby.....

 It doesnt look too bad as I go along with it.... But hey thas jsut my opinion hehe. It can look like crap and still fly like a bat out of hell!!!


Offline Bill Little

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Re: Dope
« Reply #4 on: June 29, 2010, 06:15:43 PM »
Looks fine!  y1  It isn't supposed to be a "NATS Front Row airplane"! ;D

It should be fuel proof and that is all that really matters for a Lil' Satan.  Have a ball with it!

BTW: did you thin the paint any?  Brushing dope takes thinning.

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Offline JamieHolford

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Re: Dope
« Reply #5 on: June 29, 2010, 08:59:44 PM »
lol actually I didnt know that lol. It went on good and semi thick. Gona do another light coat for good measure in the next few days

Offline Bill Heher

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Re: Dope
« Reply #6 on: June 29, 2010, 10:55:25 PM »
Let the black on the solid surfaces dry good and hard ( thick dope can take days to fully dry). spend 10 minutes with sone 100 grit, the 10 more with some 220 to smooth out the streaks and brush marks. Thin the rest of the dope out a bit so it will flow nicely, and get a fine bristled good quality brush, maybe $3-5 at Home depot.

A couple light coats will finish it off, and a bit of rubbing when fully cured will surprise ya.
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Offline JamieHolford

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Re: Dope
« Reply #7 on: June 29, 2010, 11:54:41 PM »
I will do that thanks for the tip!!

Offline Air Ministry .

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Re: Dope
« Reply #8 on: June 30, 2010, 12:52:42 AM »
Maybe youre in the hobby to learn patience . Used to do a Combat wing a week . The disposable attitude shouldnt carry through to stunt ships !
Winter building em with PVA found you had to wait a week after finishing , before flying. Balsa Cement and dope , start monday evening , fly saturday.

Offline john e. holliday

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Re: Dope
« Reply #9 on: June 30, 2010, 07:32:07 AM »
Matthew is so right when it came to combat type planes.  Build them and cover with silk.  Maybe 6 coats of clear thinned to brushing consistency.  Go fly.  I see you covering with Monokote.  Did you say you covered after doping?  I always cover first then dope.  I like the little Ringmaster in the construction stages.   H^^
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Offline Neville Legg

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Re: Dope
« Reply #10 on: June 30, 2010, 10:22:43 AM »
Don't use cheap thinners or gunwash to thin dope, you'll get the same problems, plus moisture trapped under the dope :o

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Offline JamieHolford

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Re: Dope
« Reply #11 on: June 30, 2010, 01:09:20 PM »
Well I had covered one side of wing first before doping and my clumsiness got black dope of the orange wing ust onthe side of the Fuse. I used black trim monokote along the side of the fuse to hide some of it hehe.

Online Brett Buck

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Re: Dope
« Reply #12 on: June 30, 2010, 04:06:55 PM »
Well I had covered one side of wing first before doping and my clumsiness got black dope of the orange wing ust onthe side of the Fuse. I used black trim monokote along the side of the fuse to hide some of it hehe.

     If that's a plastic covering, you can use lacquer thinner or dope thinner to remove it very easily.

    Brett

Offline Bill Little

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Re: Dope
« Reply #13 on: June 30, 2010, 07:39:13 PM »
As Brett said, lacquer thinner will remove any dope from the plastic iron ons, at least Monocoat, and those types.

I didn't remember that you said Sig black dope.  it is the hardest color I have ever tried to brush on from Sig! LL~    It take some thinning and several coats to look "good". ;D

Big Bear
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Offline JamieHolford

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Re: Dope
« Reply #14 on: July 01, 2010, 12:32:28 AM »
Im not really too concern of it looking good....Just want it to be fuel proof. which Im not worried that it will be. Ima put it on hold til I can really devote some time to sand it and do another coat and repeat the process.

 I will eventually try a lil combat with it but it being my first wing. It should be a blast.

 Knowing how to do the process with the dope. My baby ringmaster is gona have the exact same scheme. Black doped Fuse with Transparent Monokote Orange wings. Now that I will prep and do right from the start!

Offline john e. holliday

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Re: Dope
« Reply #15 on: July 01, 2010, 09:44:13 AM »
If you just want to fuel proof, nothing beats just plain clear dope.   H^^
John E. "DOC" Holliday
10421 West 56th Terrace
Shawnee, KANSAS  66203
AMA 23530  Have fun as I have and I am still breaking a record.


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