That's a bummer Bill, no April Fools joke?
It's always a roll of the dice putting clear dope over these types of graphics. This is all very do-able but you have to be very careful through the entire process. I still take a big deep breath (a lot of them actually) before that first shot of clear over graphics.
I've used Major Decals many times with no problems. To me they are definitely more tolerant than the standard vinyl "sign shop" stuff which I use a lot of too. I always spray at least a good 5 or 6 coats of clear on "dry" with those being only to the point where you can barely even tell your putting any clear on. Good lighting helps a lot with this so that you can look at reflections to judge how heavy your getting. More of those dry coats is even better, but you also have to find the right balance to retain a smooth finish too. Then after that you want to only slightly increase the "wetness" with each of the following coats. It's not easy, but you have to be patient and let things dry completely between coats. I've never wet sanded or rubbed out a model BTW. I spray and build up my clearcoats until I'm happy, let it dry, and I'm done.
On the Zero that I recently finished I used vinyl for the "meatballs". Everything seemed perfectly fine through the whole clearcoating process. At the end I laid the final two coats of clear on heavier than I ever had before. It all looked good, but then two weeks later one of the fuselage "meatballs" developed a slight bubble and distortion around part of the bottom side near the wing fillet area (Where the clear would have naturally ended up being the thickest).
I figure that what happened is the clear had dried on top, skinned you could say, but was still actually soft deep underneath. It took two weeks, but the chemicals must have still been busy under there and they finally attacked the vinyl. One edge of the decal even started to come loose. Luckily I was able to rub and press it back down with my thumb each day for a week or so and it finally stayed stuck along that edge again. Once it stayed down I just dabbed a little clear over that edge that had loosened up to seal it. The defect is still there, but it's not super noticeable. I got real lucky there, but now at least I've got a good reference point for what I can get away with.