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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: kevin king on April 06, 2025, 12:57:50 AM
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Hi all, has anyone ever buffed through the clear and then can't seem to get rid of the edge? How would you correct this? It's hard to see on video so I hope my description of the problem is enough. Respraying is one solution, but the dry time is a problem, I want this done now. I've heard of blending lacquer but I fear it will melt paint edges. I've never tried it before. Any suggestions?
https://youtu.be/C4piU27xyC4?si=tbUZT6Ivp_fzGJ0e
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Hi all, has anyone ever buffed through the clear and then can't seem to get rid of the edge? How would you correct this? It's hard to see on video so I hope my description of the problem is enough. Respraying is one solution, but the dry time is a problem, I want this done now. I've heard of blending lacquer but I fear it will melt paint edges. I've never tried it before. Any suggestions?
https://youtu.be/C4piU27xyC4?si=tbUZT6Ivp_fzGJ0e
I guess you are talking about dope. The sanding and rub out process usually involves having to re-shoot areas (note I didn't say spots) having gone through over raised ribs and edges usually. You have a choice: Either put on enough dope to avoid the problem but except the weight penalty or, go back and touch up where necessary if you used less clear dope. These don't allow rushing a job. These days fewer are doing a full sand and rub out. Quite a few are spraying on automotive two-part clear and leaving that alone. Have to say that isn't cheap and has it's own complications and learning curve. I'm not fond of it because it is near-impossible to patch well and the stuff is hazardous to use. My own option these days is to simply brush on several heavily retarded clear dope coats and call it good. It's almost as good as the auto paint, lighter in weight, can be easily patched and won't usually give away too many appearance points. I don't really have the patience any longer to wet sand and polish 200 hours......
Dave
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Thanks for the insight Dave. I wound up respraying the part. I hear you on the buffing taking so much time. My lungs are shot, so I try to stay away from 2 part automotive. Not that dope is much better. Spraying one toxic coat of 2k is probably is no better than spraying 6 coats of dope. I started using this method to cut corners where I can. Anymore buff through are going to stay.
https://youtu.be/cEd5bzYHmso?si=VNC1EefBmlOpL6At
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I have gone through many times. What I do is respray clear with 10% retarder added to slow down the drying time and letting the dope self level.. Seems to work, but the best I have ever received is 18 points. Once.
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Thanks Ty. I decided to let the clear buff throughs as is. If it was buffed through the a colour, I would fix it. Thanks for the reply.