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Author Topic: Buffing Klasskote or do better  (Read 16482 times)

Online Mike Quinn

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Buffing Klasskote or do better
« on: June 21, 2024, 12:22:15 PM »
Hi

I bought an LPH-80 (see below thread) and have managed a great Klasskote 2K finish by my standards.  The clear is shiney but not as deep as Id like.  Is it worth buffing it out and if so, how to?  Or should i just get better at gloss clear application 😀

Mike

PS i can recommend the LPH80, but get an E4 aircap version as opposed to E2.  Slightly wider fan pattern.

Offline Brett Buck

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Re: Buffing Klasskote or do better
« Reply #1 on: July 18, 2024, 10:30:45 PM »
Hi

I bought an LPH-80 (see below thread) and have managed a great Klasskote 2K finish by my standards.  The clear is shiney but not as deep as Id like.  Is it worth buffing it out and if so, how to?  Or should i just get better at gloss clear application 😀

Mike

PS i can recommend the LPH80, but get an E4 aircap version as opposed to E2.  Slightly wider fan pattern.

      Rub it out like any other clear! 

     Brett

Online Mike Quinn

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Re: Buffing Klasskote or do better
« Reply #2 on: July 19, 2024, 03:39:47 PM »
Hello Brett

I’ve figured out i probably need to spray the clear coat a bit more ‘wet’.  Being too cautious about runs, i think my clear coats could be wetter and more generous.

Cheers

Mike

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: Buffing Klasskote or do better
« Reply #3 on: August 07, 2024, 10:34:05 AM »
Hello Brett

I’ve figured out i probably need to spray the clear coat a bit more ‘wet’.  Being too cautious about runs, i think my clear coats could be wetter and more generous.

Cheers

Mike

Mike,
With glass coat I’ve learned that the best results are having the edges even or close to it before spraying the clear.  Just like a dope finish knock the paint edges down with a old credit card, then maybe using some 600 wet or dry to feather edges down (not to much).  Wash the model down with Windex or isopropyl to get the oily finger prints off and remaining paint dust off.  The first coat of clear should be thinned over 50% spray all the edge lines with a light coat to build up the edges, let the paint cure and lightly sand the Again with 1500 sandpaper wet.  Again, wash it down and get ready for your final clear coats.  Using the same clear thinned as before spray one wet coat of clear and keep it away from dust as much as possible.  Let it cure for a few days then you can a rubbing compound to remove any over spray and start looking like the jewel you want.  If it has a few spots that need more work use the 15
00 sandpaper again in those areas and polish it with the rubbing compound.  Now use a good quality wax to bring out the luster and shine. 

Good luck and send us a photo when finished,
Mike Pratt

Offline Brett Buck

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Re: Buffing Klasskote or do better
« Reply #4 on: August 13, 2024, 07:09:03 AM »
With glass coat I’ve learned that the best results are having the edges even or close to it before spraying the clear.  Just like a dope finish knock the paint edges down with a old credit card, then maybe using some 600 wet or dry to feather edges down (not to much). 

   One thing to remember is that  it gets significantly harder over the period of a few days or a week, depending on the temperature. Once it has fully cured, you can really be aggressive with it. I block-sand the color with 1000 wet on a soft balsa block, and you have to be pretty ham-handed to go all the way through. I found this out doing repairs, it is sometimes hard to even break the glaze. The film thickness is substantial even after one coat.

     Klass-kote is pretty sensitive to curing temperature, and relatively slow, so you can take advantage of that if you are careful.

      The more you knock down the edges, the less clear you need and the less likely you are to go through.

     Brett

   

Online Mike Quinn

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Re: Buffing Klasskote or do better
« Reply #5 on: August 15, 2024, 03:06:09 PM »
Hello

Thanks for the tips guys.  I think I need to invest in some ‘elbow grease’ 😀.

Main problem I have now is a neighbour complaining that he’s not happy me spraying (at 15psi with a mini gun) 40’ away from his car with any wind in the opposite direction.  Given the tiny amount of paint used he has more chance of getting dust from the Sahara on his car (which interestingly enough does happen in the UK given the right conditions).

Cheers


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