With glass coat I’ve learned that the best results are having the edges even or close to it before spraying the clear. Just like a dope finish knock the paint edges down with a old credit card, then maybe using some 600 wet or dry to feather edges down (not to much).
One thing to remember is that it gets significantly harder over the period of a few days or a week, depending on the temperature. Once it has fully cured, you can really be aggressive with it. I block-sand the color with 1000 wet on a soft balsa block, and you have to be pretty ham-handed to go all the way through. I found this out doing repairs, it is sometimes hard to even break the glaze. The film thickness is substantial even after one coat.
Klass-kote is pretty sensitive to curing temperature, and relatively slow, so you can take advantage of that if you are careful.
The more you knock down the edges, the less clear you need and the less likely you are to go through.
Brett