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Author Topic: Paint finishing  (Read 765 times)

Offline phil myers

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Paint finishing
« on: December 13, 2013, 12:50:26 PM »
Hi all, an 'old boy' (83!) at my club does fantastic finishes with auto paint, but says he paints over doped tissue to get these great finishes.. can someone explain the procedure for me please? I'd ask him, but I won't be seeing him for a while
Thanks
Phil

Offline RC Storick

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Re: Paint finishing
« Reply #1 on: December 13, 2013, 01:13:01 PM »
Base coat clear coat will go right over the dope no problems. Cover and dope as you normally do and then shoot the auto base over that. Then clear but be careful its get heavy quick
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Offline phil myers

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Re: Paint finishing
« Reply #2 on: December 15, 2013, 09:55:37 AM »
Robert, thanks for the reply.. I should have said I've never used dope and tissue before, just painted onto wood after sanding and sanding sealer, which is is probably why they always look ghastly. Do you use sealer after doping the tissue on? And do you have to use clear coat or will the paint not be strong enough. Sorry if these are basic questions Robert, but I'm a novice when it comes to aeromodelling, I've usually gone for a quick finish with plastic film all over which I've been happy with 'till now. I want to take the next step in getting a decent finish.

Thanks Phil

Offline Steve Helmick

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Re: Paint finishing
« Reply #3 on: December 15, 2013, 07:35:56 PM »
Y'all have different products available over yonder. Unless you can get Randolph butyrate dope from a light A/C supplier or Brodak or SIG butyrate dope from a hobby source? I am a big fan of using butyrate dope through the entire finish, because it's then relatively easy to do repairs when crashes happen. And they do...

OTOH, for a solid balsa racer, speeder or trainer, or an all sheeted foam cored stunter, epoxy hobby or boat paint is a good choice, but then so is 2-part automotive paint. You'd probably want to start with a few coats of clear dope (nitrate or butyrate) or furniture lacquer to seal the wood and prevent the heavier stuff from soaking in a lot.
I think you really need to seek local help, because of the difference in materials available. H^^ Steve 
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Offline phil myers

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Re: Paint finishing
« Reply #4 on: December 16, 2013, 07:06:07 AM »
Thankyou Steve, I'll speak to to my LHS.
Phil


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