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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Wade Bognuda on November 05, 2009, 04:53:36 PM
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OK, Brodak Oriental covered entirely with silkspan, Brodak products used all the way through. JET BLACK IS SEMI-GLOSS HB~>,not gloss black. I scalloped this airplane, top and bottom wings, horizontall stab, vert stab, a lot of time into just the masking. Now I know why not many airplanes are scalloped, I thought it was too old-school. IF I KNEW THAT THIS BLACK WAS NOT A GLOSS BLACK, I WOULD HAVE USED A DIFFERENT COLOR. I checked the Brodak site before posting, and they have only one black, Jet Black, that's it.
What I did was use Windy's technigue in the videos, using clear and silver for the substrate. I made the mistake of not shooting a thin coat of clear over the silver, as has been suggested here, but the few adhesion problems are where I had spot-primed flaws along the way. There are other minor flaws on the airplane, but now that I have shot the wrong color for my primary trim, I am ready to hang this thing up and start a new one. Or light it on fire..... If I start clearing this, will that change the black? I mean it is still satin under clear, right?
Any thoughts on this??? I sure wish I could fix this, I don't want to do it over.
Thanks in advance. ??? ???
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I'm not sure I understand your question entirely, but if you clear over the satin black it will become glossy.
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I'm not sure I understand your question entirely, but if you clear over the satin black it will become glossy.
You understood my question. There is hope, thanks!!! ;D
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Wade,
just for further enlightenment,
when using auto base clear systems as I do, (and several others as well) the color is always dull, satin finish. It is actually this way for several reasons, not the least of which is adhesion.
In short, if you shoot your clear properly, you will have shiney black just as Randy said
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Thanks, I understand the BC/CC systems, I haven't worked with dope for over three decades, I was taken aback by the satin black.
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I agree, not very shiny. OK for mil-spec work, not good for auto show stuff.
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Dope has never really been shiny from any source and why shiny airplanes either have auto clear or someone spent hours rubbing and polishing.
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Dope has never really been shiny from any source and why shiny airplanes either have auto clear or someone spent hours rubbing and polishing.
That's not altoghter true Bob, We used to get some pretty glossy brushed dope and silk jobs in the 50's and 60's, Aerogloss clear of that vintage was very glossy over a good sanding covering job without buffing. No show finish to be sure, but very glossy.
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Ouch again!!!!!!! ???
Now I buy a 4 oz. bottle of color and at checkout the price is $7.50, NO QUOTE ON SHIPPING OR PREFERENCES, it is to be assumed that the price includes shipping, I just looked at my bank statement AND THE TOTAL WAS $12.44, I wish I had known I was paying that much for a 4oz. bottle of Brodak dope. This is dishonest IMO, is this how they do business? or am I mistaken here? I would probably have still bought the dope even if I knew what the shipping was.
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I guess you could have gotten it for $7.50 if you walked into the store in Carmichaels. So counting the postage, it was $3.00 an ounce. High!
If you go to an airplane store at an airport you can buy a quart (32 ounces) of the same stuff (Randolph) for $32. A better unit price. That's why all my planes are basically the same colors. http://www.randolphaircraft.com/distributors.html
Randy,
The old Testors and Aero Gloss of the past seemed to brush better than today's safer and more EPA-friendly paint. As I remember, I could brush one color over another without having the base coat disolve and mix with the second color. No way you can do that with modern dope.
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I guess you could have gotten it for $7.50 if you walked into the store in Carmichaels. So counting the postage, it was $3.00 an ounce. High!
If you go to an airplane store at an airport you can buy a quart (32 ounces) of the same stuff (Randolph) for $32. A better unit price. That's why all my planes are basically the same colors. http://www.randolphaircraft.com/distributors.html
Randy,
The old Testors and Aero Gloss of the past seemed to brush better than today's safer and more EPA-friendly paint. As I remember, I could brush one color over another without having the base coat disolve and mix with the second color. No way you can do that with modern dope.
Paul, that's not altogether true either although I admitt, it doesn't brush as nicely as the old stuff we grew up with. I believe the reason is that these products are not formulated for spraying, back then allot of full sized aircraft were brushed all the way through the process, and we used basically the same stuff. I don't know that that IS the case, but I think it is. I can still brush Brodak clear and get a good glossy finish, but it sure doesn't brush like old Aerogloss, that's for sure. I, like probably everybody else from the 50's also used Testors and it would gloss up easily as you say. Color brushing is tough, the pigmnet density in all the Brodak dopes is low, again I think because its formulated for spraying, though brushing one color still works if you're careful. I guess all I'm saying is it can be done, but it aiin't like it was!