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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Harold Brewer on February 08, 2019, 11:49:05 AM
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I have been using inkjet water-slide decals, with moderate success, to apply my AMA number to my planes. I am sure that there is a better way, which will produce much better results. I have looked on this forum for a method of application, but have not seen a procedure defined with definitive steps and directions that would produce the desired results. Really need some help.
Best regards,
Brew H^^
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I am a cheap skate and cut my own numbers out of left over MonoKote. Clean the area they are going to be attached to with a cleaner that will not harm the surface. I turn the MonoKote iron onto a heat that is just warm enough that I can feel the heat with out burning my hand. Apply one number at a time. If you have the trim iron it is great for this. If a dope finish watch the heat so it doesn't get to the finish. Also a clear finish is the last spray coat over every thing. On the iron on coverings, nothing goes on over the numbers on my planes. You can see some of my planes in the finish section. D>K
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Harold,
I don't have a good deal of experience applying water slide decals,
I do have a good deal of experience applying vinyl graphics, in fact, I've been doing this as my living for many years, AND I do model airplane graphics also.
I'm CFC Graphics. I know, you never heard of me. LL~
www.cfcgraphics.com
There's many modelers in the forum that have used CFC Graphics for graphics, numbers and paint masks.
You could Google, "model airplane graphics,' lots of people doing this, including
Callie Graphics.
Many in the forum recommend Callie Graphics.
Here's the link, make it easy for you.
https://callie-graphics.com/
Good luck.
Jet.
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Micro-Mark makes a decal application kit. Makes them look much better.
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Decals, stick-on (vinyl or 'coat), or mask & paint. How nice do you want it to look, and how much detail?
If you're doing a one- or two-color lettering scheme, then getting some stencils cut and masking & painting will probably look nicest. Or if you're a glutton for punishment hand-cut stencils from frisket paper. If you want more colors than that then you'll need to work harder, but you can still do it. For detailed stuff, printing up water-slide decals and applying them is probably the easiest way to get an almost-best look.
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Decals, stick-on (vinyl or 'coat), or mask & paint. How nice do you want it to look, and how much detail?
If you're doing a one- or two-color lettering scheme, then getting some stencils cut and masking & painting will probably look nicest. Or if you're a glutton for punishment hand-cut stencils from frisket paper. If you want more colors than that then you'll need to work harder, but you can still do it. For detailed stuff, printing up water-slide decals and applying them is probably the easiest way to get an almost-best look.
Harold,
Tim makes a great point. You can go "complicated" or keep it "simple."
This model, even though it's a profile, has a combination of just about everything.
Paint plus tape masking, paint masks AND two layers of peel n stick vinyl, in this case, the blue and black lettering and graphic.
And this kind of stuff isn't as difficult as it looks.
Charles
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I have used water solvable decals produced on a laser jet print, not from an inkjet. I purchase the decal paper made for laser jets and run over to OfficeMax and have them print my decals for $0.13 a sheet. When I lay the decal on the model, after I blot all the excess water away with a paper towel, I use Walthers Solvaset decal setting solution on top and around all the edges of the decal and let it set. The solution helps to bind the decal to the surface and removes the 'hard' edge of the decal. The next day I spray a very light coat of dope around the edge of the decal, then wait about 20 minutes and apply another very light coat over the decal and along the edges. Do not spray a heavy coat of dope on the decal all at once as this could cause the decal to "dissolve" and ruin the decal. Then I give the entire model several clearcoats of dope.
Dennis
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I have used water solvable decals produced on a laser jet print, not from an inkjet. I purchase the decal paper made for laser jets and run over to OfficeMax and have them print my decals for $0.13 a sheet. When I lay the decal on the model, after I blot all the excess water away with a paper towel, I use Walthers Solvaset decal setting solution on top and around all the edges of the decal and let it set. The solution helps to bind the decal to the surface and removes the 'hard' edge of the decal. The next day I spray a very light coat of dope around the edge of the decal, then wait about 20 minutes and apply another very light coat over the decal and along the edges. Do not spray a heavy coat of dope on the decal all at once as this could cause the decal to "dissolve" and ruin the decal. Then I give the entire model several clearcoats of dope.
Dennis
How well does laser-print red hold up in the sun? Inkjet red (and yes, I'm sure it depends on the brand) seems to fade pretty quickly.
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How well does laser-print red hold up in the sun? Inkjet red (and yes, I'm sure it depends on the brand) seems to fade pretty quickly.
Hi Tim,
The only plane I had done using red (Stinson Red) was a Ringmaster. The logo, numbers and the checkers were all laser jet decals. The plane never stayed in the sun for several hours like a plane sometimes does at a contest. But it held up pretty well. I no long have the Ringmaster as I gave to Lanny Shorts' grandson.
Dennis
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Thanks for the information. I would like to get away from the decal approach, if possible. My real preference is to paint/spray the numbers. Is there a way to use a mask (I guess that is the right term) to spray on the numbers. If so, how does one go about getting one and using it?
Brew
H^^
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Thanks for the information. I would like to get away from the decal approach, if possible. My real preference is to paint/spray the numbers. Is there a way to use a mask (I guess that is the right term) to spray on the numbers. If so, how does one go about getting one and using it?
Harold,
Just contact me by PM or e-mail, I make paint masks all the time.
www.cfcgraphics.com
Or go on line and look for others, there's plenty of people doing it.
the "Jet"
Brew
H^^
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Thanks for the information. I would like to get away from the decal approach, if possible. My real preference is to paint/spray the numbers. Is there a way to use a mask (I guess that is the right term) to spray on the numbers. If so, how does one go about getting one and using it?
There are a lot of folks who have vinyl cutters and will provide stencils. You might want to start with the people who actually place high in appearance point judging -- they'll know what stencil materials are most compatible with the sorts of finishes that actually fly in competition.
You may have someone local who can do this -- I know of three people who I see regularly at contests who have stencil machines who I would trust for materials recommendations; I suspect that people local to you can provide the same service.
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I have been using inkjet water-slide decals, with moderate success, to apply my AMA number to my planes. I am sure that there is a better way, which will produce much better results. I have looked on this forum for a method of application, but have not seen a procedure defined with definitive steps and directions that would produce the desired results. Really need some help.
Over Monokote, vinyl graphics with "top sheet" is probably the best way to go, it's the same as the sign makers use (and that's where you get them). It has two sides, a backing paper that protects the adhesive and a top sheet that holds them from the front to keep them in alignment. Clean everything up, mark the location, peel the backing and roll the graphics down, rub them, then pull the top sheet off. Perfect.
Over paint, it's the same sort of thing, except it's its a stencil, the "negative" of the lettering you want, on a low-tack paint masking material. Apply as above, pull off the top sheet, spray the color of the letters, and then pull the mask up, and you have perfect lettering.
You get them from David Powers at Aerographics, or a number of other local suppliers. The Problem Child also does it, judge for yourself whether or not you want to get involved with him.
Brett