stunthanger.com

Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Perry Rose on June 02, 2018, 01:29:06 PM

Title: Another Polyspan thing.
Post by: Perry Rose on June 02, 2018, 01:29:06 PM
I don't like to use any covering that has to be doped down. It just takes too long.
I've been scratch building a Super Chief and figured that it needed doped on covering. I used Polyspan as it's heat shrinkable and I have the tools for that. I dusted the edges with spray glue to hold the polyspan in position so I could paint around the perimeter. After covering the fin/rudder, elevators and flaps and working around the corners and putting a bit too much heat on the right elevator half I tried using the monokote iron to shrink the stuff. It worked just fine with the temp set a tad over 300 degrees. Then I used the iron to heat the covering forming it around the tips and that went very well. The heat softened the primer coats of clear and held the material in place until the the over coats firmed up. I used one piece of polyspan on the parts wrapping it around the leading edge and securing it to the trailing edge. Getting the stuff to bend around the 90 degree angle on the inboard end of the flaps and elevators is a pain but like monokote I ran the iron along just touching the edge and the polyspan bent nicely into position and stayed until the paint firmed up. I still have the wing to do then all the fill coats. I still don't like covering this way.  I'm using Rustoleum 2X clear spray paint poured into a coffee can instead of dope.
Title: Re: Another Polyspan thing.
Post by: Bootlegger on June 02, 2018, 02:25:32 PM


 PICTURE'S ??  We want pictures... #^ #^ #^ #^ #^ n~ n~ n~
Title: Re: Another Polyspan thing.
Post by: James Holford on June 02, 2018, 06:34:59 PM
I don't like to use any covering that has to be doped down. It just takes too long.
I've been scratch building a Super Chief and figured that it needed doped on covering. I used Polyspan as it's heat shrinkable and I have the tools for that. I dusted the edges with spray glue to hold the polyspan in position so I could paint around the perimeter. After covering the fin/rudder, elevators and flaps and working around the corners and putting a bit too much heat on the right elevator half I tried using the monokote iron to shrink the stuff. It worked just fine with the temp set a tad over 300 degrees. Then I used the iron to heat the covering forming it around the tips and that went very well. The heat softened the primer coats of clear and held the material in place until the the over coats firmed up. I used one piece of polyspan on the parts wrapping it around the leading edge and securing it to the trailing edge. Getting the stuff to bend around the 90 degree angle on the inboard end of the flaps and elevators is a pain but like monokote I ran the iron along just touching the edge and the polyspan bent nicely into position and stayed until the paint firmed up. I still have the wing to do then all the fill coats. I still don't like covering this way.  I'm using Rustoleum 2X clear spray paint poured into a coffee can instead of dope.
Hell you have brought it to the field and covered it without tool with the heat we had

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Another Polyspan thing.
Post by: Dennis Toth on June 03, 2018, 06:50:11 AM
Perry,
Are you using dope as the undercoat/adhesive or Rustoleum 2X? Most have advised using nitrate dope to adhere and fill. I am doing a Barnstormer and at the point of covering the wing trying to make the decision about what to cover with. You indicated that with the iron @ 300 you could heat form around the wing tip, was this part of the main wing covering or separate? Polyspan is suppose to take less dope to fill than silk or silkspan and therefore less weight. What are you planning on using to fill with?

Best,   DennisT
Title: Re: Another Polyspan thing.
Post by: Perry Rose on June 03, 2018, 10:16:30 AM
Dennis, after getting the paint out of the spray can I used it for everything just like dope. Why? I didn't have any clear dope and I did have 2X clear so I figured I'd give it a try. After two coats around the perimeters of the small parts I gave the trailing edges a shot of spray glue then adhered the polyspan to the glue and then brushed on  two coats of clear just like dope. When that dried I wrapped the polyspan around the leading edge and back to the glued and painted trailing edge positioning the polyspan as best I could before painting it down.

Gil, if you want pictures go to https://perrystoys.blogspot.com/
Title: Re: Another Polyspan thing.
Post by: john e. holliday on June 03, 2018, 05:37:27 PM
I don't use dope for any thing right now.  Picked up another bottle of Mod-Podge from fabric store that is for paper it says.  The first bottle I used was Gloss.  Only difference I seen was the paper stuff seemed thicker in application.   Brush it all around the perimeter of where I am going to apply the silk-span/poly-span want a be doctor paper and iron it down.  I don't wet it as the first time I tried it was a mess.   I put it on dry and then cover with the Mylar I now use  .So far it has held up well.
Title: Re: Another Polyspan thing.
Post by: Perry Rose on June 11, 2018, 02:32:25 PM
I found a pilot figure for the Super Chief and got it installed. Next up is to glue the canopy on and then some filling and sanding and color coats. The Rustoleum clear worked very well for putting the polyspan on. The spray glue helped a lot to hold the polyspan in place while I painted it on. The weight before covering was 33.something ounces. I also figured out how to change the pixels on the camera so the image could be enlarged more on the page. Aviojet has been after me for a while to do that.
Title: Re: Another Polyspan thing.
Post by: Steve Helmick on June 11, 2018, 03:26:01 PM
Try around 800 pixels wide!!!!  y1 Steve