I don't like to use any covering that has to be doped down. It just takes too long.
I've been scratch building a Super Chief and figured that it needed doped on covering. I used Polyspan as it's heat shrinkable and I have the tools for that. I dusted the edges with spray glue to hold the polyspan in position so I could paint around the perimeter. After covering the fin/rudder, elevators and flaps and working around the corners and putting a bit too much heat on the right elevator half I tried using the monokote iron to shrink the stuff. It worked just fine with the temp set a tad over 300 degrees. Then I used the iron to heat the covering forming it around the tips and that went very well. The heat softened the primer coats of clear and held the material in place until the the over coats firmed up. I used one piece of polyspan on the parts wrapping it around the leading edge and securing it to the trailing edge. Getting the stuff to bend around the 90 degree angle on the inboard end of the flaps and elevators is a pain but like monokote I ran the iron along just touching the edge and the polyspan bent nicely into position and stayed until the paint firmed up. I still have the wing to do then all the fill coats. I still don't like covering this way.  I'm using Rustoleum 2X clear spray paint poured into a coffee can instead of dope.

I don't like to use any covering that has to be doped down. It just takes too long.
I've been scratch building a Super Chief and figured that it needed doped on covering. I used Polyspan as it's heat shrinkable and I have the tools for that. I dusted the edges with spray glue to hold the polyspan in position so I could paint around the perimeter. After covering the fin/rudder, elevators and flaps and working around the corners and putting a bit too much heat on the right elevator half I tried using the monokote iron to shrink the stuff. It worked just fine with the temp set a tad over 300 degrees. Then I used the iron to heat the covering forming it around the tips and that went very well. The heat softened the primer coats of clear and held the material in place until the the over coats firmed up. I used one piece of polyspan on the parts wrapping it around the leading edge and securing it to the trailing edge. Getting the stuff to bend around the 90 degree angle on the inboard end of the flaps and elevators is a pain but like monokote I ran the iron along just touching the edge and the polyspan bent nicely into position and stayed until the paint firmed up. I still have the wing to do then all the fill coats. I still don't like covering this way.  I'm using Rustoleum 2X clear spray paint poured into a coffee can instead of dope.

Hell you have brought it to the field and covered it without tool with the heat we had

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Dennis, after getting the paint out of the spray can I used it for everything just like dope. Why? I didn't have any clear dope and I did have 2X clear so I figured I'd give it a try. After two coats around the perimeters of the small parts I gave the trailing edges a shot of spray glue then adhered the polyspan to the glue and then brushed on  two coats of clear just like dope. When that dried I wrapped the polyspan around the leading edge and back to the glued and painted trailing edge positioning the polyspan as best I could before painting it down.

Gil, if you want pictures go to https://perrystoys.blogspot.com/

I found a pilot figure for the Super Chief and got it installed. Next up is to glue the canopy on and then some filling and sanding and color coats. The Rustoleum clear worked very well for putting the polyspan on. The spray glue helped a lot to hold the polyspan in place while I painted it on. The weight before covering was 33.something ounces. I also figured out how to change the pixels on the camera so the image could be enlarged more on the page. Aviojet has been after me for a while to do that.