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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Tim Wescott on February 03, 2013, 02:34:38 PM
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Problem: I am gluten intolerant, and spackling paste is commonly made with wheat. Worse, if a product isn't intended as food, then the manufacturer doesn't have to put an ingredients list on it, so you can't tell for sure what does and does not have a specific ingredient. (I could be wrong on this -- I realized as I wrote the above that I should check the MSDS for the product -- I think I'm gonna do that for a few spackling pastes.)
So the problem I have (which is common to a lot of fellow sufferers) is if you are truly gluten intolerant then it doesn't take much: just a crumb or two of real bread is enough to give me a reaction. This means that without insane filtration, the amount of dust that you ingest while sanding spackle is more than enough to cause at least minor problems.
The best advise that I can get from the various Celiac web sites is to hire all of your drywall work done, and leave the house when it's being done. Oh my. I feel helped.
So I'm looking for suggestions for things to use. Basically, is there a putty that I can use that is as compatible with balsa as spackling paste, and is as easy to use? Better yet would be something that's as compatible with everything as spackling paste, but I promise not to hold out for that. Failing something as good and as easy, can anyone suggest something that's as compatible but isn't too much harder?
If worse comes to worst I can probably get some SuperFil and use it for everything, but it seems like a dreadful amount of work to go through each time I look and say "oops, there's another ding".
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Tim, If it is just a ding in the raw balsa use water from an eye dropper, then pass an iron over it to steam and swell the balsa back up.
Hope that this helps...
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Problem: I am gluten intolerant, and spackling paste is commonly made with wheat. Worse, if a product isn't intended as food, then the manufacturer doesn't have to put an ingredients list on it, so you can't tell for sure what does and does not have a specific ingredient. (I could be wrong on this -- I realized as I wrote the above that I should check the MSDS for the product -- I think I'm gonna do that for a few spackling pastes.)
So the problem I have (which is common to a lot of fellow sufferers) is if you are truly gluten intolerant then it doesn't take much: just a crumb or two of real bread is enough to give me a reaction. This means that without insane filtration, the amount of dust that you ingest while sanding spackle is more than enough to cause at least minor problems.
The best advise that I can get from the various Celiac web sites is to hire all of your drywall work done, and leave the house when it's being done. Oh my. I feel helped.
So I'm looking for suggestions for things to use. Basically, is there a putty that I can use that is as compatible with balsa as spackling paste, and is as easy to use? Better yet would be something that's as compatible with everything as spackling paste, but I promise not to hold out for that. Failing something as good and as easy, can anyone suggest something that's as compatible but isn't too much harder?
If worse comes to worst I can probably get some SuperFil and use it for everything, but it seems like a dreadful amount of work to go through each time I look and say "oops, there's another ding".
This is what I use http://aircraftproducts.wicksaircraft.com/item/aircraft-fillers/superfil-epoxy-filler/sefk-1?&plpver=10&origin=keyword&by=prod&filter=0
(http://aircraftproducts.wicksaircraft.com/Asset/SEFK-1.jpg)
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This is what I use http://aircraftproducts.wicksaircraft.com/item/aircraft-fillers/superfil-epoxy-filler/sefk-1?&plpver=10&origin=keyword&by=prod&filter=0
(http://aircraftproducts.wicksaircraft.com/Asset/SEFK-1.jpg)
Ditto! Best stuff around.
And you CAN steam out small dents like Bootlegger said. I lay a wet shop towel over the spot and hit it with the covering iron set on high.
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
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Gil:
Yes, I know of that trick, and use it.
Robert:
That would certainly solve the wheat problem (in fact, it was going to be my solution if I couldn't figure out anything else). Is that what you use for everything? In other words, are there no fillers in your shop other than SuperFil and sanding primer?
Thanks for the comments so far.
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Gil:
Yes, I know of that trick, and use it.
Robert:
That would certainly solve the wheat problem (in fact, it was going to be my solution if I couldn't figure out anything else). Is that what you use for everything? In other words, are there no fillers in your shop other than SuperFil and sanding primer?
Thanks for the comments so far.
OK small dents get fillled with carbon and dope. But yes this is all I use and the link is where to get it. Tell them you saw it here. Dope in all colors at best prices. Look at their catlog and see what other goodies you might use.
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I use Dap Dry-dex from Home Depot or Lowes. It is tinted pink and when it drys turns white. I use it for all dings. Easy to use and sand and drys fairly I use Super-fil for fillets.
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Tim,
Here's what I've been using for the past few years. Made by Elmers and available at all the "big box" stores in various types of packaging (tubes, tubs, etc.). Make sure you get the "interior" formula (red label). The "exterior" (green label) is too gritty and does not sand as smooth. I find it easier to use than spackle. Seems to adhere better and easier to feather the edges.
Paul
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For dents along with filling other imprefections, creases and spots missed when I do fillets (hey, it happens), I use a catalyzed glazing compound like Dolphin Glaze or Evercoat. It's a car product. I like it because it catalyzes in about 10 minutes, sands very easily (very easily), doesn't weigh much and doesn't shrink. And I've never had any adhesion problems with paint. Ever. Cool stuff.
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And I've never had any adhesion problems with paint. Ever. Cool stuff.
It sticking to paint, or paint sticking to it?
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Either way, though why you might was to stick it to paint is unclear.
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I was more concerned with how it sticks to primer. I always seem to a number of dings after the first primer coat goes on.
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Not that my word means much on this forum, but I agree with Randy. I have been using dolphin glaze for a couple years on all kinds of stuff. A bag of it will last foever, and it is self leveling. It is thin enough you ca brush it on if you need to cover a wide area.
Pat Maset
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if you are using dope, or lacquer primer, you can use non-catalyzed lacquer glazing putty,, one tube lasts for ,, oh about 15 or 20 cars,, so thinking it might be forever on airplanes,, I would suggest the FIRST most important task is to minimize the dinks, gouges and screw-ups that you need to fill,, filler is always,, ALWAYS heavier than balsa, and generally harder,, so less desirable,,
in other words, ,naked balsa never touches anything hard sharp or pointed unless you intend it to,, so remove all those spare electronic whatzits from your bench,, the random car or truck parts,, and anyother thing that is not part of the plane you NEED to have on the bench,, then stay away from the lights when you swing the thing around,,
aside from that, superfill is the be all end all,,or if needed the dolphin glaze, ( i prefer evercoat myself)
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in other words, ,naked balsa never touches anything hard sharp or pointed unless you intend it to,, so remove all those spare electronic whatzits from your bench,, the random car or truck parts,, and anyother thing that is not part of the plane you NEED to have on the bench,, then stay away from the lights when you swing the thing around,,
I already knew that. Yet, I had to have it pointed out to me. (Seriously -- my bench isn't as bad as you make it sound, but I'm not religious about keeping stuff from being dinged).
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I already knew that. Yet, I had to have it pointed out to me. (Seriously -- my bench isn't as bad as you make it sound, but I'm not religious about keeping stuff from being dinged).
Hey Tim,, wanna know how I know how important this is ? :)
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Mark, I think I can figure it out.
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I don't like the non-catalyzed glazing compound because of shrinkage. The stuff will sink into a repair and show up after the plane is painted. I like the catalyzed stuff better because it sets and that's it.
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Randy, I agree, but when it comes to small very very shallow stuff that some people would brush another coat of primer on,, I actually would prefer a tiny thin dab of lacquer glaze,, in SOME cases, the catalyzed stuff is pretty hard and wont sand welll
I cannot beleive that I am advocating use of an air dry product,, sigh,, but there you go,, air dry over air dry,,
Tim,, I have gotten pretty good at steaming dents out of my balsa,, just for the record,,