I was searching for Allen’s finishing process as this might be my preferred method going forward.

It was a little hard to find and in jpg format.
I will post it here maybe others may be looking.

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I put these in a google doc but was too large to post.

I think he did the Oriental and the Opus with this method. I’m sure a few more.
He stopped using dope after he got out of the service.

Thank you Paul for posting the Allen Brickhaus finishing articles. Have those files away for another day, but greatly appreciate having them at my fingertips. WELL DONE!
Hey Dan, I still have Allen's "Begin the Beguine" airplane as well as several others. Paint & finish are holding up very well!

Stay safe!  Stay well!  "Tight Lines!"
Wes

Your welcome. Can you post some pictures of Allen’s planes.

I'm still doing some finish sanding on my Magician before the covering begins. I'm really thinking of doing the Brickhaus method as I already have most everything on hand.

Only question is this - since the wing is a sheeted foam wing, should I still cover the wind and stab/elevators with film, or would I be better served using Polycrylic to silkspan the whole airframe, then thinned water-based spackling compound (anyone know a particular one to use?), SuperFil fillets, spray primer, sand, then Rustoleum colors?

Steve

      If you read the articles, Allen always covered flying surfaces with iron on products. This is the lightest and strongest way. Run the covering up to the fuselage and leave about 1/8" to 3/16" of the surface exposed. Mask off the covering so the fillers will overlap the edge of the covering by about 1/8". Then finish the fuselage as per the instructions.  The only thing to paint is the fuselage but some trim.colors could be painted on the film. This should get you the lightest finish as long as everything is applied and sanded properly.
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

Dan gives good advice, but Allen told me of similar way, which I think works better than laying the iron on covering about 1/8" from the fuselage, at the wing joint. He told me to use a "Pinked" edge at that juncture. I've been doing that for bout 30 or so years now, and it works very well.

Mask the wing where you want your fillet to end. Use your Favorite method and make your fillet. keep it masked until after your first prime coat. remove he mask and move it 1/8" further out from the first location.

After sanding the first prime coat, paying particular attention to sanding the paint edge down, and scuffing the iron on to the new masking line, apply the next prime, or blocking coat, whichever way you go. Again, take up the masking tape line, and re-apply 1/8" further out onto the wing.

Keep repeating as you apply your fuselage paint coats.

Before the clear coat, do it one more time, after that coat has set enough, remove the tape and set the model aside to cure sufficiently. Use 600 -2000 grit paper and remove the paint line. you can polish the clear coat, and the dull strip, caused by the final sanding, should disappear.

That's what he explained to me, probably in a later stage of his finishing experience than what Dan describes. When I've done all the steps, you rarely can find where the paint ends and iron on begins.