Building Tips and technical articles. > Paint and finishing

A Few Thoughts on Finishing

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Bill Little:

--- Quote from: Clint Ormosen on October 01, 2007, 10:48:46 PM ---Well, since I haven't bought the color dope yet, I can use Brodak. It's just that I don't have any experience with anything other that Sig. It's a comfort zone sorta thing.

--- End quote ---

Hi Clint,

In case you didn't see mt previous post, Sig will go over the Duplicolor filler/primer with out any problems.  I use Sig colors all the time over it, both of the Sig clears, too (Lite Coat, Supercoat.).

Clint Ormosen:
Thanks for the input on the Sig dope, Bill.

I shot the model with Duplicolor primer and am sanding it down again. Seems like good stuff.

Randy, what thinner are you using with the dope. (note: Dupont V-3608S and 3608S thinner is not available here in northern CA)

Bill Little:
Clint,

Randolph's Butyrate thinner will work fine in Sig dope.  It *should* be cheaper by the gallon than Sig or Brodak's.  A local airport that does repairs is where I used to get mine.

Bill <><

Randy Ryan:
OK, you guys will laugh at this, but I do it and it works. Not sure about SIG but I use plain ol' lacquer thinner from Miejer's with Brodak dope. I used to keep it on hand for cleaning brushes and spray guns and noticed that it never clotted up in the container. So, I mixed some clear and gave it a try. That's what's on the Sabre, both color and clear are thinned with cheap lacquer thinner.

Randy Powell:
Randy,

I believe it. I've used stuff that just says "Paint Thinner" on the can (lacquer in fine print) from Home Depot before. It seemed to work fine, though it wasn't much cheaper than what I pay for a gallon of Certified Thinner. I've always maintained that as long as it's compatible, use whatevers to hand, just make sure you have enough to thin paint from wood to topcoat. Most of the finishing problems I've had with dope have been from changing thinners in mid finish. I once switched from using 3608S to Sig thinner in the middle of shooting trim color and developed horrible problems with adhesion (pulling up sheets of colored dope when I pulled the tape off). Cured me of that.

On another note, Phil Granderson's suggestion in his MA ariticle that after shooting and sanding primer, shoot a thin coat of heavily reduced clear is a really good idea. Last plane I finished, after sanding the primer, I shot a coat of clear mixed 80% thinner/20% clear on the primer. It sort of locked the primer down and I had enormously less problems with tape pulling up paint. I'd always just gone from primer to a blocking coat of color without the mostly thinner clearcoat in between. Man, don't miss this step. It will solve a multitude of problems later on.

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