Which of this stuff is fuel proof?? Or is all of it?
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Hi James,
The only paints that are truly fuel *proof* are the 2 part polyurethane paints (usually referred to as "automotive paint") which use an isocyanate catalyst to completely crosslink the base resin and the epoxy paints such as Klasskote. Polyurethanes have the advantage that they do not fade or yellow like the epoxies do. Both types have excellent initial gloss, however epoxies do not stand up to weathering nearly as well as the two part polyurethanes do.
On the cured (dried for about a week) two part polyurethanes I can take a wet (really wet, not just damp) rag soaked in MEK and wipe the surface of the paint with no harm at all for the paint. One part polyurethanes are not nearly as chemical resistant. The MEK test is much more severe than the highest nitro content fuel.
That being said, you may have a situation where you cannot, for whatever reason, spray the polyurethane. It is fairly toxic but it is very doable with the proper equipment. In this case you have to use the next best thing which may be rattle can material, etc. and that is the way to go in this case.
This thing about rattle can paint being "fuel proof" keeps coming up and I understand why. Some will be more fuel proof than others and that is good information to have and is worth disseminating here.
Now, realizing all this, on my models I like to use the somewhat fuel *resistant* Randolph butyrate dope for everything except for the final topcoat clear for which I use the somewhat fuel *resistant* Sig Light Coat clear. Old school.