Author Topic: "Jewelry in an aerosol can. Krylon jewelry on the SKYFALL 007! (Read 31720 times)

Avaiojet · « **on:** May 14, 2014, 11:43:04 AM »

I gotta tell ya, these guys that use RRC, Rusty Rattle Cans, are on to something.

I never thought I'd admit to this and now I have.

RRC guys are in the forefront and well ahead of the game. I'm lacking behind no more because I can honestly say, "Been there done that."

Who would think, especially those with airbrush and spray equipment skills, that the use of simple RRC's would bring reasonable and good results?

Not just reasonable, but reasonable and then some, results. I'm convinced!

Living proof? Here's the SKYFALL 007 sporting Krylon aerosol paint. Yes, Krylon aerosol paint!

Can't leave out my buddies. In order of application, Bright White Satin, Coral Isle Satin, Island Splash Satin, Satin Black, Purple Gloss, Gold Brilliant, and Nickel Satin.

How about a round of applause for my Krylon buddies. Take a bow guys!

Avaiojet · « **Reply #1 on:** May 14, 2014, 11:44:39 AM »

Krylon areosol cans.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #2 on:** May 14, 2014, 11:46:23 AM »

More photos.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #3 on:** May 14, 2014, 11:48:02 AM »

Couple more photos.

RknRusty · « **Reply #4 on:** May 14, 2014, 01:27:43 PM »

Damn... that's amazing. I didn't see that coming.
If you're still going to spray clear on it, like Lustrekote or some such fuel proof stuff, be very careful. I'm not sure what'll happen when it hits the metallic color. That's probably one color that has no fuel proof properties at all. I'm sure you already know to set up a test job first and just dust it. I've ruined some nice work with the final finishing touch.

Phil Krankowski · « **Reply #5 on:** May 14, 2014, 02:08:32 PM »

Pretty sweet. I agree, make up a test board and send it with the plane so if the board fails the painter can stop.

Phil

Will Hinton · « **Reply #6 on:** May 14, 2014, 02:32:42 PM »

Wow! I LOVE where the gold shades slowly into the silver - that's a masterpiece! (And the rest ain't bad either.)
Nice job. Now for the two part clear and some flying time.

Dennis Toth · « **Reply #7 on:** May 14, 2014, 02:39:24 PM »

Charles,
Looks great, I agree with Phil about the test pieces. An easy way to make them up is to get an aluminum tray cut the bottom out and then cut it into credit card size pieces that you can spray on the various colors, test with the clear coat. Another option to consider is to apply one clear coat of the Krylon Clear to seal the colors then after that dries put on the death paint clear (this way you only need to do one test piece). Looks great, get the clear on and mount up so we can fly this weekend.

Best, DennisT

Paul Wood · « **Reply #8 on:** May 14, 2014, 04:06:29 PM »

I got to tell ya Charles, that is amazing! My hat's off to you for a beautiful work of art. Hope it flies as good as it looks.

Paul

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #9 on:** May 14, 2014, 06:27:05 PM »

I got three letters for you: WOW!!!!!!!

Marcus

55chevr · « **Reply #10 on:** May 14, 2014, 06:29:13 PM »

I like it ....

EddyR · « **Reply #11 on:** May 15, 2014, 06:31:54 AM »

I bet it is going to weigh a ton when it is done. Spray can paint seems like a good idea until you weigh it after the fuel proofing. But we all have to find out at least once.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #12 on:** May 15, 2014, 11:29:27 AM »

I must say that is some outstanding art work. Now when is it going to get in the air?

Will Hinton · « **Reply #13 on:** May 15, 2014, 11:50:36 AM »

On the weight consideration when using spray cans - I can do a "can job" just as light as I can a dope job. All you have to do is get coverage and stop there. I have used Krylon on several stunt ships of the Trivial Pursuit persuasion and haven't had a pig yet. As far as the weight of the two-part; once again, you need to stop when it's fully covered and count on the sanding and buffing for the shine if you're the type to load it on. I don't sand and buff my clear finishes unless they're on a guitar. My planes can just shine from a few feet for the appearance points. I only use enough clear to fuel proof the ship. Weight does not have to be a consideration if you're careful with the cans.

Glenn (Gravitywell) Reach · « **Reply #14 on:** May 15, 2014, 01:49:32 PM »

Charles.......WOWOWOW!!! The only thing wrong with this plane is, its not in my house!

RknRusty · « **Reply #15 on:** May 15, 2014, 03:21:26 PM »

Hey Charles, if you'll ship it to me, I'll put some laps on it and ship it back to you. If I return it in a smaller box, I'll cover the shipping.

Rusty

Avaiojet · « **Reply #16 on:** May 15, 2014, 03:54:50 PM »

Wow, all you guys have been great!

And thanks for the kind replies.

I'm moved.

Yes, the auto two part clear is next then assembly. I have a story board for the painter. See what happens with the test first?

Gotta figure out how this model is to be propped up or heald for the clear coat?

Thanks again for liking the model.

Charles

RknRusty · « **Reply #17 on:** May 15, 2014, 04:49:17 PM »

Quote from: Avaiojet on May 15, 2014, 03:54:50 PM

Gotta figure out how this model is to be propped up or held for the clear coat?

Here's how I do it. After removing it from the mount, I coat the unpainted area where the aluminum engine bearers are going to be with epoxy, since all that will be covered up anyway.
Rusty

Avaiojet · « **Reply #18 on:** May 15, 2014, 04:59:07 PM »

Rusty,

Looks like a Warbird? What model is it? Other photos?

Could you dig a bit deeper with your explanation?

Clear gets everywhere, how do you separate the mount.

Video please.

Paul Wood · « **Reply #19 on:** May 15, 2014, 06:34:06 PM »

Charles,

I think this is probably what Rusty is showing in his photo. You can easily fabricate something along these lines and it works well on full body or profile planes.

Paul

RknRusty · « **Reply #20 on:** May 15, 2014, 07:10:43 PM »

That's about right, Paul, except more crude. The rod runs through a PVC tube with a jam wedge to lock it in position, all clamped in a vice. The nose plate is screwed to the engine mounts, in this case 4-40 threaded inserts.

Charles, you've seen it. That's my Yak-9 I built this Winter. But since it's so good looking and I'm so handsome, here it is again. Never did put the exhaust pipes on the nose, but I did add kill stars under the canopy and a 5 on the fuselage.

This is the best pic I have of the mount:

This covers the only unpainted area after removing it from the work mount:

Damian Paten · « **Reply #21 on:** May 15, 2014, 11:26:21 PM »

WoW Avaiojet, that paint job looks awesome.
Well done.

Is there any decals on there or is it all done with paint?

EddyR · « **Reply #22 on:** May 16, 2014, 05:35:52 AM »

Rusty Did you know that the Russian Yak-9 was covered with plastic.

It was a form of plastic called" Bakelite" The pilots who flew it regarded its performance as comparable to or better than that of the Messerschmitt Bf 109G and Focke-Wulf Fw 190A-3/A- Wikipedia.
Looks good
Ed

Avaiojet · « **Reply #23 on:** May 16, 2014, 07:48:09 AM »

Quote from: Damian Paten on May 15, 2014, 11:26:21 PM

WoW Avaiojet, that paint job looks awesome.
Well done.

Is there any decals on there or is it all done with paint?

Damian,

Good question! What prompted you to ask?

There are no "Decals." I could leave it at that and be telling the truth.

However, the lettering is HP vinyl, that is, the black and the light blue, done on the wings. All the rest is Krylon paint.

I ordered the blue HP vinyl special to match the blue paint. I was going to use HP vinyl on the blue accent stripes on the wings also but changed my mind, so I painted the stripes.

Sure, I could have made masks as easelly as the vinyl lettering, but, I have no confidence in aerosol can paint. Yet.

I'm kinda sure when I pulled the masks for the lettering something would have come off. I wasn't going to take the chance.

Quick note. Clear over vinyl, modelers do this all the time.

So don't tell anyone, that will be our little secrete.

Thanks for the reply.

Charles

Damian, I see you're new to Robert's Stunt Hanger. Welcome!

So you'll know, I'm CFC Graphics over at the Vendor's Corner. I've been doing model airplane graphics and lettering for a long time. Some modelers have won scale contests with my graphics, both cleared and not. Here's the link to photos of modeler's airplanes sporting my graphics.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/profile.cfm?section=gallery&memid=11343

Avaiojet · « **Reply #24 on:** May 16, 2014, 07:58:05 AM »

Paul, RRC,

Thanks for the photos and comments.

Sure, we would epoxy the inside of the nose on our models and mount them as per your photos. Didn't matter if paint got inside that area or not.

But clamping something to the nose of a profile?

You would have to mask off the area, then at a later time, mask off what was cleared and just clear the area where the clamp was.

Or simply brush that area.

Am I missing something?

Nice Yak!

RknRusty · « **Reply #25 on:** May 16, 2014, 09:57:42 AM »

Quote from: Avaiojet on May 16, 2014, 07:58:05 AM

...But clamping something to the nose of a profile?

You would have to mask off the area, then at a later time, mask off what was cleared and just clear the area where the clamp was.

Or simply brush that area.

Am I missing something?...

Charles, I think so. The painting mount only covers where the engine will be bolted, no more. It is screwed to the threaded inserts already installed in the maple beams. See the aluminum engine bearers in the last picture, there is no paint under them, just epoxy. If you want paint there, then cut some 1/2" standoffs from brass tube for the bolts to pass through as a spacer between the nose and the mounting plate. The epoxy was brushed on and cured well in advance of mounting it up for painting.
I hope that answers your question.

Eddy, I didn't remember that about the Bakelite. I read up some about the Yak, but missed that. I took my paint scheme from a picture that I found searching Google. I wanted those outlined stars, but fouled it up every time I tried to make them. Mine has Cyrillic text on the nose and now has stars under the canopy and the 5 on the fuse. Still haven't gotten around to the exhaust pipes. I couldn't wait to fly it, so it still has a piece of blue tape there.
Rusty

It has all the decals in the last scene of this video. It's a trim flight with an unexpected cutoff of the Fox 35... yeah, I know...

Avaiojet · « **Reply #26 on:** May 16, 2014, 11:17:55 AM »

RRC,

Flies great!

Are you on 60' lines? 4.8 sec. circle?

Your Fox is a screamer. Tank size?

I hope my Fox runs that well.

I have to look into U-Tube, see what you need to do that?

RknRusty · « **Reply #27 on:** May 16, 2014, 11:29:01 AM »

Yep, 60'. Tank is too small, 3oz. I need a 4oz for that thirsty engine. It's a 1958 model Stunt 35. Tank position is critical with those, and I was turning too tight in the loops too, that'll turn one off.

I enjoy 'Tubing my flights. It helps me see what I'm doing right or wrong, plus I like to show off, be-it good, bad or ugly. I have about 60 something videos up. My 1/2As are the most entertaining. CLPA is rather boring for the spectator.
Rusty

Avaiojet · « **Reply #28 on:** May 16, 2014, 11:41:40 AM »

RRC,

OK!

My camera will take movies.

I did a test movie and tried to place it in a Thread on SH. File came up to large.

I'm guessing I need a program?

My Fox is about 1958 vintage also. I think.

RknRusty · « **Reply #29 on:** May 16, 2014, 07:20:27 PM »

1MB is the max size for all Stunthangar uploads, and is too small for any sort of useful video quality. Video files are very large. That's why I usually post my images and videos from a 3rd party host like Youtube, Servimg and Photobucket. I think Photobucket handles videos now but I haven't tried it. I also trim, edit and compress my videos with Windows Movie Maker.
Rusty

john e. holliday · « **Reply #30 on:** May 17, 2014, 09:15:57 AM »

Rusty, great video. 3 ounces should be enough for the old time pattern. I usually use only 2 3/4 ounces for the OT pattern.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #31 on:** May 17, 2014, 01:49:08 PM »

RRC,

I understand the "standoffs" but I think I will attempt to put a close hanger wire, or two, into the mounting holes.

This could work also?

Your Fox .35, have you tried a few props? Currently using what prop?

Charles

Jim Thomerson · « **Reply #32 on:** May 17, 2014, 02:52:30 PM »

OK, I can't wait any longer. Show us the bottom of your airplane. The top is awsome.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #33 on:** May 17, 2014, 03:36:23 PM »

Jim,

What a surprise and thanks for the reply.

Jim, I have a photo of the model's bottom posted up top someplace. One of the last ones maybe.

Bottom is same as the top, easier that way.

I'll post the top and bottom again.

Monday I take the sample painted story board to the Auto Body Shop to see about the clear.

Thanks for the reply.

Charles

RknRusty · « **Reply #34 on:** May 17, 2014, 05:28:17 PM »

Quote from: Avaiojet on May 17, 2014, 01:49:08 PM

Your Fox .35, have you tried a few props? Currently using what prop?

Charles

An ugly APC 9x6 works best for me. Different climates affect Foxes a great deal, so it varies. I have a buddy in OK who uses an APC 10x5. I don't know if his is the same as my Stunt 35 though. You'll accumulate a lot of props before it's all over. Getting that famous Fox 4-2 break the same inverted and upright, and turning on and off where in the maneuvers you want it to is what you tune it for.

Hang it any way you prefer. With my setup, paint gets everywhere that's supposed to be painted. The only unpainted spot is fuelproofed and then completely covered by the engine mounting tabs.
Rusty

Avaiojet · « **Reply #35 on:** May 17, 2014, 05:35:55 PM »

RRC,

Are you running a muffler on your Fox? I looked a few times at your video but cannot tell.

You added the flaps, correct? I don't believe the plans call for flaps? Am I correct?

I think your Yak is fast!

Charles

Mike Keville · « **Reply #36 on:** May 17, 2014, 06:44:50 PM »

Quote from: Avaiojet on May 17, 2014, 05:35:55 PM

<snip> . . . I don't believe the plans call for flaps? Am I correct? . . .
Charles

=======================================================

The Sterling kit of the Yak-9 offered the option of fixed OR operating wing flaps. Builder's choice.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #37 on:** May 17, 2014, 07:10:25 PM »

Quote from: Mike Keville on May 17, 2014, 06:44:50 PM

=======================================================

The Sterling kit of the Yak-9 offered the option of fixed OR operating wing flaps. Builder's choice.

Mike,

Thanks for the reply.

I just missed one on ebay, it was more than I wanted to spend. I have interest in Dennis's Yak Yak and would like to build one. Dennis did a great job with his, it's a cute little bipe, I just love those tapered wings.

Mike! How is your art? Have you done any new paintings?

Thanks again for the reply.

Charles

Mike Keville · « **Reply #38 on:** May 17, 2014, 07:47:23 PM »

Quote from: Avaiojet on May 17, 2014, 07:10:25 PM

<snip> . . . Mike! How is your art? Have you done any new paintings? . . .
Charles

========================================================
Nothing since this one (11 x 14 mixed media). Have been rather inactive lately.

RknRusty · « **Reply #39 on:** May 17, 2014, 09:03:16 PM »

Mike is right about the flap option, and I did make working flaps on mine, much to the argument over at SSW not to. But I've never had a flapped plane and wanted to do it as much for the building experience as well as seeing how I liked flying it. It turns really tight. Tight enough to shut the Fox off Lol. But it's not meant to be a precision stunter anyway, but a fun sport plane. And it lives up to that billing 100%.

My Stunt 35 is meant to not have a muffler and has no accommodation for one. I could strap one on, but I don't think this model Fox would be happy about it. I've taken much of my Fox advice from Ken Cook, who I trust as a great advisor on such matters. This is my first Fox too. I helped a young CL enthusiast at Joe Nall get one set up today, and we really had it doing the Fox thing perfectly on his old refurbished Ringmaster. Unfortunately he only had a 2oz clunk tank, but it ran sweet for a few laps. Perfect for a beginner. He flew it really well in some pretty stiff wind later in the day. I flew it once so we could check it out inverted. First time I ever flew a Ring! Big fun.
Rusty

Avaiojet · « **Reply #40 on:** May 18, 2014, 06:41:11 AM »

Quote from: Mike Keville on May 17, 2014, 07:47:23 PM

========================================================
Nothing since this one (11 x 14 mixed media). Have been rather inactive lately.

Mike,

This painting is really nice! Great color pallet.

I have absolutely no idea how you work that small and get all that detail! Illusion?

How do you find your images? Detailed line drawing first? Hard board or canvas?

Really really nice, great subject also. Great airplane.

Did you know that model is offered as an ARF?

Anything else?

Charles

Avaiojet · « **Reply #41 on:** May 18, 2014, 06:47:24 AM »

RRC,

I think your effort with the flaps was a great idea. Flaps look great!

My Fox must be newer, it has the ear holes for a muffler. I will run mine with a muffler.

I'll get a photo, figure out what Fox it is I have.
----------------------------------------------

OK, here's a couple of photos.

My new wing outline for another model I'm designing, a Warbird.

Stuff. Couple of mufflers, prop extension and spinner choices. One is 2" and 3 blade. The other is 1.75" and 2 blade.

The 2" would probably be a stretch?

I'd like to get a backplate gasket. Anyone got one? Supplier? Fox?

john e. holliday · « **Reply #42 on:** May 18, 2014, 08:28:36 AM »

The later Fox's have the area between those little ears and the muffler solid now with a hole for the bolt to go thru. I would suggest you cut some brass tubing to fit between the ears and the muffler. Use parchment paper between the muffler and the engine plus the parts so you can bolt it all together. Then use J-B Weld Steel to glue it all together. Once cured face every thing off so you have a nice flat surface. Don't need no gaskets either. Also keeps from warping the case.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #43 on:** May 19, 2014, 06:44:23 AM »

It's Monday,

And as I said, I'm taking the story board to the LABS, Local Auto Body Shop, for the clear coat test.

Not a pretty sight, but it has all the colors. See what happens.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #44 on:** May 20, 2014, 05:44:45 AM »

Well,

As I expected, the two part auto clear had no effect on the Krylon. Even fresh Krylon sprayed a half hour before the clear was applied.

FYI. Auto clear was sometimes used over my pinstriping. I used One Shot enamel paint for all of my hand striping done with a brush, mixed with a tad of lacquer thinner just for the bite.

Most of the pictorial airbrush work I did was with One Shot sign painter's enamel and that was always cleared.

I also know that auto clears have been sprayed over art work where acrylics were used.

So there is opportunity to be creative with paint brands. I'd like to see more of the candys and flakes. Some flakes are offered in aerosol cans.

Might do a test with that.

I'll try to have the Skyfall 007 cleared by the end of the week. When is up to the body shop painter.

Steve Helmick · « **Reply #45 on:** May 21, 2014, 12:33:20 PM »

The problem with Krylon is that when you need to repair a hole in the covering, dope will make it wrinkle up badly. My buddy Jerry Day found that out and posted on SSW about how to get around that. I suggested spraying some clear Krylon into a cup and use it like clear dope to attach the patch, then water shrink as usual, then use more clear Krylon for the base finish. It worked, and he was happy with the results.

Charles, your Flite Streak is real nice, but I'm a bit concerned about the weight and especially the CG. Good luck and good flying!

Mike Keville, you will have an email soon!

Steve

Damian Paten · « **Reply #46 on:** May 21, 2014, 02:15:08 PM »

Quote from: Avaiojet on May 16, 2014, 07:48:09 AM

Damian,

Good question! What prompted you to ask?

There are no "Decals." I could leave it at that and be telling the truth.

However, the lettering is HP vinyl, that is, the black and the light blue, done on the wings. All the rest is Krylon paint.

I ordered the blue HP vinyl special to match the blue paint. I was going to use HP vinyl on the blue accent stripes on the wings also but changed my mind, so I painted the stripes.

Sure, I could have made masks as easelly as the vinyl lettering, but, I have no confidence in aerosol can paint. Yet.

I'm kinda sure when I pulled the masks for the lettering something would have come off. I wasn't going to take the chance.

Quick note. Clear over vinyl, modelers do this all the time.

So don't tell anyone, that will be our little secrete.

Thanks for the reply.

Charles

Damian, I see you're new to Robert's Stunt Hanger. Welcome!

So you'll know, I'm CFC Graphics over at the Vendor's Corner. I've been doing model airplane graphics and lettering for a long time. Some modelers have won scale contests with my graphics, both cleared and not. Here's the link to photos of modeler's airplanes sporting my graphics.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/profile.cfm?section=gallery&memid=11343

I just asked cause........well cause it is a very tidy job.

Well done.

Thank you for the welcome.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #47 on:** May 21, 2014, 03:02:03 PM »

Quote from: Steve Helmick on May 21, 2014, 12:33:20 PM

The problem with Krylon is that when you need to repair a hole in the covering, dope will make it wrinkle up badly. My buddy Jerry Day found that out and posted on SSW about how to get around that. I suggested spraying some clear Krylon into a cup and use it like clear dope to attach the patch, then water shrink as usual, then use more clear Krylon for the base finish. It worked, and he was happy with the results.

Charles, your Flite Streak is real nice, but I'm a bit concerned about the weight and especially the CG. Good luck and good flying!

Mike Keville, you will have an email soon! Steve

Steve,

Thanks for the reply and for the heads up. Glad you like Flite Streak.

Repairs?

I never even thought about repairs till your Post. Something that should be considered.

I believe that is a good fix, using Krylon clear, thanks for that info.

Weight? As it sits with absolutely nothing on it except paint and no clear coat yet, not to leave out the engine and all the gear.

Model weighs 1 lb. 2.3 oz. I have no idea if that's to much, but remember, I started with a vintage kit with not so contest balsa.

Steve, thanks again for the reply.

Charles

Randy Powell · « **Reply #48 on:** May 21, 2014, 04:42:38 PM »

Repairs are what you have to consider when you are using incompatible paints. Can be a pain, as I'm again discovering with a plane I'm currently repairing.

RknRusty · « **Reply #49 on:** May 21, 2014, 05:38:07 PM »

Quote from: Avaiojet on May 21, 2014, 03:02:03 PM

Model weighs 1 lb. 2.3 oz. I have no idea if that's to much, but remember, I started with a vintage kit with not so contest balsa....

I think that's about right. If you use an la25 or thereabouts it should fly like a Streak should fly.
Rusty