To the gentleman's question,
1) figure out how you are going to hinge the stabilator. The hinge has to be very free and not wear out quickly. It probably isn't what you want, but I have used a stabilator with a sewn hinge on a 3 in. mini stab, which holds up well. I used it Ringmaster style, with the hinge at the back of the fuselage. If you want to put it through a full fuse I'd experiment first, using a carbon fiber or aluminum arrow through the fuse to join the two halves. A second joiner at 50-75% chord would be a good idea. If you go with some type of bushing or ballbearing for the hinge it would be a good idea to be able to take it apart for repairs and modifications, at least for the first one. Perhaps the two guys who have seen a good, working setup could post pictures or sketches of the hinge?
![Huh ???](https://stunthanger.com/smf/Smileys/classic/huh.gif)
2) A stabilator can be effective with an area as little as 10% of the wing, but 15-20% is probably better.
3) You have to work out the control loads. Wild Bill Netzeband's old articles(1963-62 American Aircraft Modleler) have all the info and are available on line. The hinge line needs to be no more than ~20% back from the leading edge. IF you go as far back as 25% you'll end up with virutally no load on the controls and lose all feel for what the plane is doing. With a 15-20% area stab you probably want the hinge to be the same percent back from the LE. A 10% stab can work well hinged at the leading edge.
4) fine tuning the balance point, control movement, and handle spacing takes more care than with a stab/elevator. There is a sweet spot that gives smooth control, good corners, and good return to straight flight, but it seems to be smaller than a conventional tail.